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Is this a common Trailer Issue, broken trailer pics
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Is this a common Trailer Issue, broken trailer pics
Rented a pickup, and took my boat out of the water for the season without any problems. I towed it about 5 miles and parked it in the driveway it will sit for the winter. Then I see this huge crack at the base of the winch mount. Not sure if it happened from me cranking the last foot of boat up the bunks or from the drive. I had the straps on the back, and those are what was probably holding the boat from ripping off the rest of it.
Is this common, I obviously will look to replace it in the spring with a more robust part that has additional support.
Curious if this happens often and what do you suspect was the cause. This is only the second time I used the trailer since I got the boat in the Spring.(the boat was trailerred before but only had 90hours on it and boat/trailer are 2005)
__________________ -Kurt
"Happy Hour"
2005 Sea Fox 257WA w/ 275 Verado (2.5mpg at 36mph and topping out at 50mph)
1994 Yamaha Waveblaster
1996 Yamaha Waveblaster
That's a new one by me, but at least it's not a hard or expensive part to replace. My guess is you should put the trailer in the water a bit deeper, as you shouldn't have to crank too hard to put a boat on a "float on" bunk trailer, roller trailer would be a different story. Was that post vertical when you left the ramp? Obviously, it should have a forward angle. At least the weld held :-). One more reason for belly and/or transom straps. I use both, but I'm anal retentive.
I'm glad no injuries were involVed and you got your boat home safe.
-GD
As said above , back in a little farther or do a lite power load , in any case replace that whole stand with one that has more balls.
Oh yeah, be sure to get a new plastic/rubber guide roller [ Yellow for your hull ]
__________________ F350 4x4/ Dodge 2500HD 5.9L Cummins
Leaving the Picture of the Ford cuz I miss it
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aluminumalloyboats.com
I did that once while pulling my Bertram out of the water. The boat was tight up to the winch stand and the winch strap was tight and when the trailer flexed coming out of the ramp it snapped the winch stand. You might want to try pulling the boat up a little and before the trailer crest the ramp stop and let a little bit of slack in winch.
Don't buy a new one. Take it to a welder and let him weld it up. It will be better than new if the welder knows what he is doing.
You can't weld galvanized steel without generating toxic fumes and the welded area will begin to rust because it's not galvanized. Besides, the metal is rusted away.
This is what mine looked like:
It's angled and braced. Much better design. These parts are available and not hard to bolt on.
Same thing happened to the actual trailer hitch itself on my trailer for my 16'. Luckily, it held on by a thread...didn't know it til' I got to the lake.
__________________
McKee Custom SS260 Twin 200 Optimax - For Sale
McKee Craft 16' Waccamaw 90 Johnson
Chevrolet 2500 HD Duramax
As far as arm stregth goes, I am just a skinny guy, but come to think of it, I always could curl Alot for my size....hmmm ha
CDail that is interesting how it happened to you, makes sense, I am definately going to get a beefier one
and I knew that the bunks are float on, But I just really had to crank it that last foot and didn't want to put the 2wd in the water.
EasternMarine I agree about the height, The bow eye lines up directly to the stop so the winch is to low right.
Rwidman thanks for the pic and link to eastern marine's website
I can't remember if it is a magic tilt, but that piece does look wimpy compared to th rest of the trailer
and I realize that bow stop is small, that is what the boat repo dealer threw on there for me since the old one was shot. And as far as the color to match the hull, that is some white bottom paint and the boat was sitting for a while. All that yellow came right off as soon as I washed the boat, no worries.
__________________ -Kurt
"Happy Hour"
2005 Sea Fox 257WA w/ 275 Verado (2.5mpg at 36mph and topping out at 50mph)
1994 Yamaha Waveblaster
1996 Yamaha Waveblaster
The weld spatter on the faceplate indicates it probably wasn't cleaned before galvanizing. If they don't care about weld spatter...
Welding leaves oxides on metal that don't play well when trapped under paint or zinc. Most builders sandblast welded areas, or alkaline or acid wash those areas, before applying metal protection. See that other crack starting to propagate under the weld at the front corner of the picture? I do believe that's a manufacturing problem.
I certainly wouldn't have it rewelded, and I agree with other posters that it is a poor design.
__________________ The Flying Wasp - Carolina Skiff 238 Semi-V
I agree with 24/7. plus you want your boat resting on the roller, not with the roller pulled up to the boat. You want no stress on that weld at rest. If you have to pull the boat up with the winch you need to relax the pressure before you drive.
I don't know if your boat has an anchor pulpit but if it does, you don't want to get too tall of a winch post. The winch post on my trailer is just about right for 80% of the launches, but on a steep ramp, the anchor get's hung up on the post while loading and unloading.
One other thing that I always do is to let off on the winch tension after the boat's out of the water and on the trailer. Not to the point of having slack, just enough to relieve a little of the tension.
Weld quality causes problems in many applications. Great variability depending on the capability of the welder. Even so, your bow attachment components look a little flimsy for a 26 ' boat. I'd get a new post with an angled brace facing the rear of the trailer--a triangular support taking some of the load off the bottom weld.
Is this a common Trailer Issue, broken trailer pics 
