11-06-2009, 02:28 PM
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Banned 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,228
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Oh well, I found this and it seems to answer my questions. http://www.loadrite.com/Support/Main...t_Trailers/76/- Check all pivot points on the trailer to make sure that they are snug, but not too tight. You should be able to move all pivot points by hand.
- Adjust the rollers or bunks to your boat. The rollers or bunks of the trailer should be symmetrical from left to right but not necessarily from front to back. Often, they need to be positioned so that they contact flat surfaces on the bottom of the boat and miss various features such as water intakes and strakes.
- Place the boat on the trailer making sure that there is sufficient clearance between the boat and each fender. Most trailers can easily be adjusted by either adjusting the height of the bunks or rollers or the heights of the cross bars. Also, verify that the bunks or rollers contact the boat on flat surfaces and are spread wide enough to keep the boat stable while towing and cornering.
- Measure the tongue weight of the loaded trailer by using a tongue scale, a lever and a bathroom scale or other suitable device. The tongue weight should be between 5% and 7% of the GVWR (GVWR = weight of boat, fuel, equipment, accessories, and trailer). The tongue weight can be adjusted by repositioning the boat or moving the axles on the trailer, or both. The boat can be repositioned by moving the winch stand.
Determining tongue weight: Up to 250 lbs. can be measured on a household scale by resting the trailer coupler on the scale and placing the scale on a block so coupler is at its normal towing height. The trailer must be fully loaded and level. For heavier tongue weights, place a household scale and a brick that's as thick as the scale 3 feet apart. Set a length of pipe on each and rest a beam across the pipes. Re-zero the scale to correct for the weight of the beam and pie. Securely block the trailer wheels. Rest the trailer coupler on the beam, 1 foot from the brick and 2 feet from the scale. To obtain tongue weight, multiply the scale reading by 3. For even heavier weights, place the scale and brick 4 feet apart, rest the coupler on the beam 3 feet from the scale and multiply scale reading by 4.- Be sure that the transom of the boat is well supported. In most applications, the rear bunks or rollers of the trailer should not be further than 8" in from the transom. Consult your hull manufacturer for their recommendation.
- Some trailers (such as our aluminum I-beam line) are provided with bow stabilizing pads or rollers. For them to work properly, they must be adjusted so that they are snug to the keel and are taking some load. They can be adjusted when the boat is properly positioned on the trailer, but with the winch cable loose.
- With the boat pulled up into the winch stand, and the winch hook connected to the bow eye, the cable or rope should be parallel with the frame of the trailer. If it is not, the winch support should be adjusted to the proper height on the winch post. Always keep the winch line or strap under the bow stop of the winch stand in order to restrain the boat in case of a sudden stop.
- In addition to the bow hook, always tie the boat to the trailer in both the front and rear with approved marine straps.
- Always make sure that the trailer coupler fits snugly on the ball of the towing vehicle. Some couplers have an adjustment underneath and can be adjusted easily to the ball. Also, when you attach the trailer to the towing vehicle, make sure that the coupler is locked securely, and that the safety chains or cables are crossed and attached securely to the trailer, and to the towing vehicle. The tow vehicle hitch must be rated high enough to handle the GVWR of the boat and trailer.
- CAUTION - CHECK THE LUG BOLTS ON THE WHEELS FOR PROPER TORQUE (85 - 95 FT. LB.). ALWAYS CHECK TIRE PRESSURE WHEN COLD. INFLATE TO MAXIMUM PRESSURE RATING ON THE SIDEWALL OF THE TIRE.
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