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Random Quote: I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy.
Well replaced the electronic box directly in back of the converter ( cant recall name, but shift selector inserts within, of the trany and what is now happening is that she will not shift unless I blip the throttle enabling me to go from second to third. Any ideas, been to powerstroke help dot com, nothing there?
year of truck? The part you replaced could it have been the selector switch that goes on the drivers side of the transmission. You may need to get the computer diagnosed and see what the pid data is on the map sensor, TPS, to make sure it does not think you at 3/4 throttle or getting the f out of someone way. Why did you repalce that part to start with? Is this something different then what it was doing before.
I have a 1999 7.3 F450 with the 4R100 Automatic. Same as yours.
First trans failed due to torque converter overheating.
Second transmission (a $6000 "built" performance transmission from ATS in Colorado) failed due to overheating, pulling a heavy trailer up mountain passes.
Just got the truck out of the shop with a much revised rebuilt transmission. The local shop has a good knowledge of the 4R100, should have went to them first. Put in high performance components, a very large cooler, a cooling fan and a torque converter lockup controller that is programmable for lockup at speeds down to 12 mph. Around $5000 total.
The 4R100 is computer controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) mounted under the dash, on the left, just above your left foot position. The PCM controls shift points, torque converter lockup, and all engine parameters.
So, take the truck to a dealer or to a transmission shop that has the proper scanner to read the codes. Most automotive scanners will not read powerstroke codes, so you have to pay the bucks and go to a dealer or the trans shop, The latest Snap On scanner will read the codes, but the darned thing cost $3500. Codes are only an indication of what may be a real problem. Shifts are controled by a servo pack in the trans, it is wired to the PCM via a wiring harness that plugs into the trans on the right side, just above the pan flange.
If you have been towing much, especially hilly roads, overheating likely has damaged the clutch packs and bands. This will cause erratic shifting and trash the trans and converter with contaminates. Dirty fluid will cause erratic shifting. A dirty or bad solenoid valve will cause erratic shifting. Dirt in the valve body and passages will cause erratic shifting. Bad wiring will cause erratic shifting. A bad PCM will cause erratic shifting.
How many miles since you had the fluid and filter changed? 15,000 miles max if you heavy tow. Does the fluid smell burnt? Is it dirty?
I change the fluid at 10,000 miles or one year, which ever comes first. You cannot change all the fluid just by pulling the drain plug, it takes a special fluid changer with a pump to get all the fluid out of the clutch packs, torque converter, coolers, and piping. My local trans shop does this for me.
Do you have a transmission temp gauge? If so, what max temps have you seen? Above 220, starting to get in trouble. Above 240, trans is toast. Only takes a few minutes at high temps to toast the 4R100. Been there, done that.
Give me some info on year of truck, is it a 250 or 350, what are you pulling, how much weigh are you pulling, hills or mountains, do you have a temp gauge.
99 Powerstrokes did not have the oil/water cooler in the bottom of the radiator. Big mistake by Ford. The standard 7.3 air/oil cooler mounted behind the air conditioner condenser is too small.
If you tow with a 7.3 Powerstroke you must have the following:
1. Transmission temp gauge, and monitor it. Pull over and leave the engine running to pump fluid and cool the trans down it if gets above 220.
2. Increased cooling. The best cooler is the 31 row that goes on the 6.0 powerstroke. About $400 from powerstrokeparts.com
3. Remove the thermal bypass valve and piping. This diverts fluid away from the cooler when the trans is cold at start up, and will lead to overheating if you heavy tow.
And if you have a power increasing chip in the truck, like a Edge, BullyDog, etc., it can damage the stock transmission as you are putting too much torque through the trans. And the chips screw with transmission shift points. Did you buy the truck new? If not, look for a chip, it plugs into the back side of the PCM, usually has duct tape on it to keep it from coming loose.
Location: Solomons, Maryland / Now just visiting Marathon
Posts: 4,708
Hold off on buying anything, the servo is $500, but a possible fix is $12 (or free).
Is your OD light flashing?
Does your speedo jump around at lower speeds?
Recheck that code, should start with P1 or P0 (zero).
Hold off on buying anything, the servo is $500, but a possible fix is $12 (or free).
Is your OD light flashing?
Does your speedo jump around at lower speeds?
Recheck that code, should start with P1 or P0 (zero).
My new servo pack was $173.52. $500 is "el bandito" unless labor charges are included for a pan drop, flush, fluid and filter change.
The thing to do is go to a reputable shop and have the trans diagnoised. Driving with a problem will just "self destruct" the trans.
The 4R100 is a good trans if everything is ok, but once it starts having problems, it will eat itself due to contaminates flowing around with the fluid. And it does not like heat, if it has ever been overheated, it needs to come apart for damage control.
Depending on your year model, you may have an aluminum overdrive planatary carrier. Bad news. Steel is the way to go.
Location: Solomons, Maryland / Now just visiting Marathon
Posts: 4,708
Yep, the whole deal if you have to have someone else do it is $500.
I'm thinking if the speedo jumps about, it is prolly the VSS, a $12 part.
That code isn't right though.
Need to get a valid code.....
Yea I am thinking he is trying to pull codes with a conventional code reader, will not work on Powerstrokes!!! Neither will AutoZones.
This is why I ordered AutoEnginuity last week. It is a software package for laptops that will read Powerstroke, Duramax and Dodge Cummings codes and give you a lot of diagnostic tools.
A good site to read hundreds of pages concerning transmissions is dieselstop.com
Gotta be careful on that site, the gents definately are biased about whose performance enhaced transmissions to use!
After all my transmission problems, my next diesel truck will be CAT powered with at least a 10 speed.
No speed jump at all just holds the shifts till I blip the throttle, going to the mechanic- tuner this AM. Changed out the DTR as when I previously had the issue an adjustment of that part was the culprit, now she reluctantly shifts. I do not tow, was Diable Sport tuned, at *85 hp previously and stepped down and then this occurred, my gut is that it is computer. Disconnected the batts for thirth min prior to DTR (Neutral saftey switch install), will post up after shop visit!
Bad transmission, no way around it, left it with my shop. He laughed when I asked if it was due to tuner. told me to stop reading the forums. Essentially told me that here in FL, as my daily driver, I will never get the tranny working as its very flat and showed me my temp after driving to him for thirty minutes today was 160. Told me he'd install a cooler if I prefer to throw my money away. Guys honest and all he works on are diesel PU's. 2k rebuild, he will warranty it. Said I got 135K out of the original, thats about what they do. Keeping the 5" exhaust and Diablo Sport tuned to +85hp!!!!! Eliminated the cold air intake, he beleives in the heat in Miami, better off using the ducted factory box and the KN within, seems logical.
Cat is out of the business as of end of 2008 so maybe a DT466 will do. When you get that program PM me on how you like it. Been looking at it just not sure if it works as well as the salesman says it does. After all he is the salesman and his product is always the best.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Altamaha
Yea I am thinking he is trying to pull codes with a conventional code reader, will not work on Powerstrokes!!! Neither will AutoZones.
This is why I ordered AutoEnginuity last week. It is a software package for laptops that will read Powerstroke, Duramax and Dodge Cummings codes and give you a lot of diagnostic tools.
A good site to read hundreds of pages concerning transmissions is dieselstop.com
Gotta be careful on that site, the gents definately are biased about whose performance enhaced transmissions to use!
After all my transmission problems, my next diesel truck will be CAT powered with at least a 10 speed.
Location: Solomons, Maryland / Now just visiting Marathon
Posts: 4,708
You know, you can go with a beefier trans.
I don't know why you have rebuilt twice, it's pretty flat round your area.
I have 115k on my original ('03 7.3), and I treat it like a truck, hauling, pulling, deep hot sand, etc....
You may want to consider an external trans filter, it will also cool the temps by a few degrees, in addition to providing good filtration and easy fluid changes.
Third trans, that's just weird!!
This is the first rebuild, @135K. Heat is not an issue even running over to them Monday and dogging it to get there I was only infared at 160 on the pan. Very acceptable temp. From all I have read thats about when they go. I will continue to run Diablo Sport +85HP, with the KN filter not cold air as I have been. Its reaady pick her up in the AM. The off to the body shop for a paint job. Thinking "fighting lady yellow". Boats named Girlyman, minivan I inherated from my wife is Girlyvan, think she will become Girlyduty
Location: Solomons, Maryland / Now just visiting Marathon
Posts: 4,708
So what is the verdict, what went wrong and what was the fix?
Ok, I re-read the thread, you said 2k rebuild ($2000.00), not second rebuild.
When mine takes a squeeze, I'm going with the Monster Box rebuild.
I'm glad you are gettine 'er back in the morning, good news!
That's the fastest rebuild I've heard of, unless it's an independent.
7.3 PSD Transmission "Hold" 
