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Old 10-01-2009, 08:19 PM
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Default BrakeRite Electric / Hydraulic Brake Actuator Kit

I am interested if anyone has experience with brakeRite or BrakeRite II RF Electric/Hydraulic Brake systems.
I have a 10,000 lb dual axle E-Z Loader Aluminum I beam Trailer with a 260 Mako about 8,200lb’s total weight.
I am considering converting from Surge to their Electric/Hydraulic Braking System.
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Old 10-02-2009, 03:33 PM
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They are sweet when coupled with some kodiak discs but have to be careful not to get the unit under water. Mount it high. I used a piece of angle aluminum to make a bracket on the top of my I-beam towards the coupler.
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Old 10-02-2009, 04:26 PM
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it is a easy upgrade. just remember to have a constant hot at the back of the truck in the plug. some newer gmc trucks do not have it. there is a wire to hook up under the hood. i have this system on all 8 trailers and never get a complaint.
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:42 PM
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I'm on my second trailer with one and think it is the best thing that has happened to trailer brakes. I did toast a control box by dunking it in sea water, so the advice on mounting it high is correct. But they apply quickly, modulate well and I think I can stop the truck faster with 12,000 pounds of boat behind it than I can with the truck alone.
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Old 10-04-2009, 04:57 AM
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simonsom. There the best things that has happend to a trailer since the wheel.. Bought our Fountain in Tampa. Darn lucky the trailer made it across the bay to loadmaster. I had a bran new surge brake installed with electric R lock out and brakes on both axles. Comming home I was still not happy and I pull a lot of weight with the camper in the dodge . Took the boat over to Portsmouth Trailer sales and had them install the ect/hyd system with the adjustable where I control how much brake the trailer has. The toung where you have your wench mounted. They welded a plate on the front of that and mounted the unit . HIGH AND DRY. Stopping short, now is NOT a issue. Go for it.
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Old 10-04-2009, 12:31 PM
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Thank's for the information
I'm going to order it today.
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Old 10-05-2009, 03:17 PM
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Pay close attention to your in cab brake controller. Not all are compatable with the BrakeRite system. My Prodigy burned up my BrakeRite. They do make them ones that are compatable with Electric/Hydraulic. Other wise totaly love the system with the BrakeRite and Kodiak disc brakes.
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckets View Post
Pay close attention to your in cab brake controller. Not all are compatable with the BrakeRite system. My Prodigy burned up my BrakeRite. They do make them ones that are compatable with Electric/Hydraulic. Other wise totaly love the system with the BrakeRite and Kodiak disc brakes.
Do you need an in cab brake controller?
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:31 AM
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Do you need an in cab brake controller?
Very cool, looking great so far. Keep going, I wanna see it finished!
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Hockleyneck View Post
Do you need an in cab brake controller?
Depends on what BrakeRite model you get. I beleive the new model has a gismo built in so you don't need it. Mine needed the in cab controller, which I like cause I can add a bit of braking if I need it.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:01 AM
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Any new info here? I have a tri-axle trailer with surge brakes and am just starting the learning process with regard to the elect over hyd brakes.
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:12 PM
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Just try calling Brakerite directly but I think you need a controller/actuator for all electric brakes. Otherwise the trailer brakes would have too much or not enough stopping power
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:02 PM
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Best I can tell, you still need an in-cab controller. And you wouldn't want to do without one. This allows for adjustment of gain, onset rate, and remote actuation, without getting out of the tow vehicle.
Both BrakeRite & Carlisle offer optional systems that are intended to make the trailer less dependant on the tow vehicle, and have controllers that move readily between tow vehicles without being semi-permanently connected to the tow vehicle electrical system. Both internal controllers plug into the tow vehicle cigarette lighter plug.
The Brake-Rite system uses RF, the Carlisle system sends a signal to the actuator through the tow vehicle 12-volt system.
With Carlisle actuators there are 3 pressure levels available. If you've got disks you want the 1600 psi unit.
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:49 PM
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What do you do with the old surge coupler when changing over to E/H? Just have it welded ridgid so it does not expand/collapse?
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:53 PM
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What do you do with the old surge coupler when changing over to E/H? Just have it welded ridgid so it does not expand/collapse?
We just replaced the one on my buddy's trailer with a reese coupler with 2-5/16 hitch for less than $60.
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:00 PM
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What do you do with the old surge coupler when changing over to E/H? Just have it welded ridgid so it does not expand/collapse?
you can do that or drill and put a bolt through it or take it off and use a stright hitch mount welded to the frame. I didn't want all the bulkie surge brake on the front when I was not using it. Its still for sale if anyone wants one. Paid 420 dollars in Tampa at Loadmaster and it made it home then came off.
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