2" Receiver Hitch Big Enough? - The Hull Truth

Miss Trial · 09-24-2009, 05:39 AM

I have a Reese brand "farm and ranch" 2" receiver hitch. It has 1,200 lb tongue capacity and 12,000 pound trailer capacity and has a 25,000 lb capacity 2 5/16 ball on it.

This is cutting it pretty close towing a 31 Contender loaded down, no?

If so, where do you go to find one bigger than this? I had to get this one a the Tractor Supply store a couple years ago.

fldmax · 09-24-2009, 10:15 AM

That should be just fine. I would not think that boat would be over 12,000 lbs? I tow my Wellcraft 290 and loaded with fuel etc on the trailer it was 14200# I use a the hitch that came on the truck 2001 Chevy 2500 HD 4x4 towed it to Venice LA and to Stuart Fl from Tallahasses Fl area no problem. You know how smoth them LA roads are! just my experience

welder · 09-24-2009, 11:30 AM

Your next step is to get a goose neck Trailer.

oceandansar · 09-24-2009, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fldmax

That should be just fine. I would not think that boat would be over 12,000 lbs? I tow my Wellcraft 290 and loaded with fuel etc on the trailer it was 14200# I use a the hitch that came on the truck 2001 Chevy 2500 HD 4x4 towed it to Venice LA and to Stuart Fl from Tallahasses Fl area no problem. You know how smoth them LA roads are! just my experience

you better check the capacity on that chevy I have an 07 2500 d-max and the hitch on that truck was only rated for 7500 lbs, I put a putnam rated at 15k dead weight or 16k with equalizer that was the heaviest hitch i could find. I pull a GW 330 express thats about 18k on the trailer.

Miss Trial · 09-24-2009, 12:19 PM

I can find hitchs that are bigger than 12k but i can't find a ball that will fit in them properly.

beenie · 09-24-2009, 02:01 PM

I'm not completely sure I understand your question. It seems you are using a 2 5/16" ball on your hitch, is that correct? I have a 2 5/16" on mine that rated at 10,000 lbs.. I use it for my safe moving trailer. That trailer is very heavy. There's 100' of 4 x 1/4" square tubing on it, a couple of forks from a fork lift, and a 10,000 lb. axle from the front of an 18 wheeler. I have not had it on the scales, but it is pretty heavy all by itself. I have loaded 6,000 lb safes on it with no difficulty. There is no suspension on the trailer, which I regret, so it gets banged around pretty much on rough roads. I have been using that set up for over ten yrs now with no trouble.
Mike

Greg Manning · 09-24-2009, 03:05 PM

You should be fine they are engineered with a safety factor and labeled cautiously....wouldn't bother me at all to use it at 100% capacity. First thing I do is put on a Putnam XDR or Reese Titan...they both will give you margin if you want to go with a bigger hitch. Make sure you get/or are towing with a solid draw bar with the capacity for your hitch and not one of the hollow ones.

katkt · 09-24-2009, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Manning

Make sure you get/or are towing with a solid draw bar with the capacity for your hitch and not one of the hollow ones.

Ditto^^^^^^^^^^^

fldmax · 09-25-2009, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oceandansar

you better check the capacity on that Chevy I have an 07 2500 d-max and the hitch on that truck was only rated for 7500 lbs, I put a putnam rated at 15k dead weight or 16k with equalizer that was the heaviest hitch i could find. I pull a GW 330 express thats about 18k on the trailer.

It is 10000# rated I have 600# on the ball rest is on the 3 axles, Pulls like a dream. There is a 4to1 working load limit built into the hitch. I know it is rated at 10K in 2005 I added a Ranch Hand rear bumper and bolted the receiver hitch to it. That should help the weight limit out also. that putnam hitch must be special class rated as the largest hitch is class V and it is rated to 12000# with 1200# on the ball and with 14000# load with the equalizer hitch. But his hitch should be enough to pull that boat with, In the towing business I have recovered many trucks that had campers that flipped etc and the hitch was always in good shape. they are tougher then you may think.

liveaboard74 · 09-25-2009, 01:01 PM

C-Trial I agree with the others. What you have will work fine. I"d just make sure you had the best bolts or even weld a line on the frame for added security. If its right at the limit or a little over those hitches are not built to brake right at the higest point. They are tough. There is one more hitch that is a double bar class 5 that you can get if it makes you feel better. Its called a torklift made by superhitch. There on e bay. Installed it in about a hour myself but I have the electric impact so it made it easy. Its almost like the one you have now but thicker and they are made to fit any truck. Couple of holes to drill but nothing major but the bolts are as big as your thumb and there hardened. Its not comming out. I had to get one to move the ball behind my camper that hangs over the rear.

oceandansar · 09-25-2009, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fldmax

It is 10000# rated I have 600# on the ball rest is on the 3 axles, Pulls like a dream. There is a 4to1 working load limit built into the hitch. I know it is rated at 10K in 2005 I added a Ranch Hand rear bumper and bolted the receiver hitch to it. That should help the weight limit out also. that putnam hitch must be special class rated as the largest hitch is class V and it is rated to 12000# with 1200# on the ball and with 14000# load with the equalizer hitch. But his hitch should be enough to pull that boat with, In the towing business I have recovered many trucks that had campers that flipped etc and the hitch was always in good shape. they are tougher then you may think.

I own a body shop and I have seen more than one chevy twist the hitch off the frame and a few ford's for that matter most of the time it is to much tounge weight with no weight distribution and all the time I see this I would not trust the frame once repaired. just my .02 I always believe in overkill in this sue happy society we live in. (my 02 chevy 2500 hd had a 7500lbs hitch and my buddies 05 has a 7500lbs hitch )

petrel · 09-25-2009, 04:48 PM

try these guys: http://www.hitch-web.com/
They have several options in very heavy hitches, balls and ball mounts. I've had very good experience with them.

The hitch is like the truck, neither one can be too heavy duty.

Miss Trial · 09-25-2009, 04:52 PM

OK. I went to another local shop and got a 12,000 lb 4" drop (i'm using it as a rise) with at 25,000 lb ball on it. I think that should be good. Now i'm worried about the pin. Is that an issue? Are all pins created the same?

liveaboard74 · 09-25-2009, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-Trial

OK. I went to another local shop and got a 12,000 lb 4" drop (i'm using it as a rise) with at 25,000 lb ball on it. I think that should be good. Now i'm worried about the pin. Is that an issue? Are all pins created the same?

Rolling force is not a problem on the pin . You will be fine. Just make sure its solid.

Did you ever decide on a name for your boat. ?
The one thing I would get that makes the world of difference is electric over hydraulic brakes. Boat is a lot lighter than yours but I have the camper which makes up the difference. I"m 21000 when I pull out the drive. I bought the best surge brake Loadmaster had down there in Tampa and still was not happy. We put brakes on both axles and I got the unit I just spoke of. All the difference in night and day. YOu control how much catch your brakes have on the trailer when you hit the brake from inside the truck. You might have it but if you don't its the best thing for trailers since the wheel...

Miss Trial · 09-25-2009, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by liveaboard74

Rolling force is not a problem on the pin . You will be fine. Just make sure its solid.

Did you ever decide on a name for your boat. ?
The one thing I would get that makes the world of difference is electric over hydraulic brakes. Boat is a lot lighter than yours but I have the camper which makes up the difference. I"m 21000 when I pull out the drive. I bought the best surge brake Loadmaster had down there in Tampa and still was not happy. We put brakes on all 4 axles and I got the unit I just spoke of. All the difference in night and day. YOu control how much catch your brakes have on the trailer when you hit the brake from inside the truck. You might have it but if you don't its the best thing for trailers since the wheel...

I have a 2009 F250 with a brake controler. I might need to look into that. how hard is that to add?

liveaboard74 · 09-25-2009, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-Trial

I have a 2009 F250 with a brake controler. I might need to look into that. how hard is that to add?

C-trial if you already have the controller inside the cab you have 3/4 the problems already solved. All they would have to do is hook the unit up on the front of your trailer and wire it in. Maybe 2 to 3 hours at a trailer place. I would have that installed by a shop that does that. I added the second set of brakes in Tampa and I"m so glad I did. I can hit the brakes hard now and its like the boat is not even back there. It stops itself. I live in Nixonton NC and its a 70 mile pull around the Abamarle Sound for me to get to OBX so it was worth it to me. BTY, you have all you need in hitch. I read your last post. Just double check the bolts and put in the best ones if they not hardened and your ok.

fldmax · 09-26-2009, 01:35 PM

you will need to have an adapter installed to make the electric over hydraulic work with the factory supplied electric brake controler. Electric over hyd is the best way to have brakes on a boat trailer, As you back down the ramp with surge brakes the truck has to stop the load but with E/H you have brakes as you back down that steep ramp.

fldmax · 09-26-2009, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oceandansar

I own a body shop and I have seen more than one chevy twist the hitch off the frame and a few ford's for that matter most of the time it is to much tounge weight with no weight distribution and all the time I see this I would not trust the frame once repaired. just my .02 I always believe in overkill in this sue happy society we live in. (my 02 chevy 2500 hd had a 7500lbs hitch and my buddies 05 has a 7500lbs hitch )

So i guess the hitch is stronger then the frame and as you stated most are 7500# rated so what does that tell us about the tin foil made in china steel built frame on our HD and SD trucks, I winched a 3/4 ton truck out of the river using the hitch. Picked it up and over the bridge rail swaying in the breeze on the hitch. It held just fine but I explained to the FD diver that next time something around the frame rail would make me feel better. He figured the hitch was easy to chain to and it was attached to the frame. Both the main cable and the safety line were attached to the hitch. Wish I had taken pictures of that one.

liveaboard74 · 09-26-2009, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fldmax

you will need to have an adapter installed to make the electric over hydraulic work with the factory supplied electric brake controler. Electric over hyd is the best way to have brakes on a boat trailer, As you back down the ramp with surge brakes the truck has to stop the load but with E/H you have brakes as you back down that steep ramp.

100% correct.

I set the trailer with just a tad more bite then the Dodge. With that much weight your not going to slide the wheels and you can feel them back there.
Good feeling....

welder · 09-26-2009, 06:00 PM

2009 Ram 2500
RAM 2500 ST REGULAR CAB, 4x4, 6.7-Liter Cummins® Turbo Diesel Engine,
6-Speed Automatic Transmission

With 3.42 Axle Ratio You Can Tow 10200 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR)[i]=9000
Payload[i]=2332
Curb Weight[i]=6668
Curb WeightFront / Rear=4189/2479
GAWR[i]Front / Rear=5200/6000
Gross Combination Weight Rating(GCWR)[i]=17000

With 3.73 Axle Ratio You Can Tow 13200 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR)[i]=9000
Payload[i]=2332
Curb Weight[i]=6668
Curb WeightFront / Rear=4189/2479
GAWR[i]Front / Rear=5200/6000
Gross Combination Weight Rating(GCWR)[i]=20000

With 3.73 Axle Ratio You Can Tow 13100 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR)[i]=9000
Payload[i]=2255
Curb Weight[i]=6745
Curb WeightFront / Rear=4261/2484
GAWR[i]Front / Rear=5200/6000
Gross Combination Weight Rating(GCWR)[i]=20000

With 4.10 Axle Ratio You Can Tow 13200 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR)[i]=9000
Payload[i]=2332
Curb Weight[i]=6668
Curb WeightFront / Rear=4189/2479
GAWR[i]Front / Rear=5200/6000
Gross Combination Weight Rating(GCWR)[i]=20000

Look for the Equipment Identification Sticker [i] to identify your vehicle's Axle Ratio. If you are unable to determine your vehicles axle ratio, assume you have the numerically lower ratio and can tow the lesser of these ratings.

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While it is not listed in the charts, tongue weight [i] is also an important consideration. The recommended tongue weight is between 10 & 15% of the trailer weight. However, the maximum tongue weight on Class III (The bumper ball) is limited to 500 lbs, and Class IV (The receiver hitch) to 1200 lbs.
This requirement overrides any recommended GTW rating, between 10% and 15% of gross trailer weight (GTW). Additionally, the GAWRs and GVWRs should never be exceeded.
Secure payload to prevent shifting of weight during braking, acceleration, cornering, or bumps, etc. If loads shift during dynamic conditions, load distribution could change resulting in an unsafe condition, or could exceed limits of recommended tongue weight. Incorrect tongue weight could result in increased yaw or vehicle instability. A negative tongue weight could unload the rear suspension of the tow vehicle decreasing vehicle stability. Negative tongue weight could cause the trailer to squat and potentially become disengaged from the tow vehicle resulting in a runaway trailer condition.
Towing capacities may vary. Consult your dealer for full details on the towing capabilities of the vehicle.

Check here for other brands,
http://changingears.com/rv-sec-tow-v...-ratings.shtml