*THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Welcome to the updated THT!
If you are having trouble signing in, please email feedback@thehulltruth.com with your username and we will help you. We thank you for your patience as we help you access the new site!
Random Quote: Never approach a dock faster than you can afford to hit it.
I sell a Restoration kit at my shop that works great. Its made by BG, its so good that we rarely have to redo them. I also offer a lifetime warranty. BG is not sold in many stores so get on their web site and find a rep in your area.
Wet/Dry sand paper. Depending on how scratched the lenses are will determin what grit to start with.
Probably start with 600. Wet the lens and the paper. Go over the entire lens well, clean with a rag and repeat. Follow the 600 with 1000, then 1500, then 2000 using the same procedure. I then used a clear coat scrub and followed that with a product called "Scratch X".
I can't believe I didn't think of the wet sanding thing first. I should have known that. I try that method first and if that doesn't do it I'll try the kit.
I believe FLIZ (sp?) has a kit, or can be used on headlights?
Hey Chris, I just placed an order yesterday for a set of LED spreader lights.
Just a quick question?, What amp fuse should I use for the lights?
THX Scott
Wet/Dry sand paper. Depending on how scratched the lenses are will determin what grit to start with.
Probably start with 600. Wet the lens and the paper. Go over the entire lens well, clean with a rag and repeat. Follow the 600 with 1000, then 1500, then 2000 using the same procedure. I then used a clear coat scrub and followed that with a product called "Scratch X".
Lenses came out looking great.
Dan
+1 on the sandpaper Ive used it on several vehicles and it works great use upto 2000 and if you need a polishing compound or a rouge compound. Ive tried the kits they dont work as well as sandpaper. They are a little easier especially the ones for the drills but go with the sandpaper.
The wet sanding thing worked for me. I started with a 600 then moved to a 1000 then a 2000. Then I puffed them with a high speed buffer and plastic polish/scratch remover.
We have a guy that comes to our shop "Headlight Doctor" he wetsands them and then uses a clearcoat. I think he gaurantees for life. We used the 3M polish for years with fair results, but was only a temporary solution.
Chris - if the lens starts to turn again, which most due, try getting a set off ebay. I replaced the ones in my FIL's old '97 and what a difference. The lights fit ok - stuck out about a 1/2 inch from the grill, but the amount of light, especially with the silver star bulbs was amazing.
Chris - if the lens starts to turn again, which most due, try getting a set off ebay. I replaced the ones in my FIL's old '97 and what a difference. The lights fit ok - stuck out about a 1/2 inch from the grill, but the amount of light, especially with the silver star bulbs was amazing.
Thats a good tip as well, there are good replacement housings for most applications. Also, go to the autobody paint store and get a can of spray clear. It will help protect your work so they dont go bad again as quickly.
__________________ "a doughnut is only one step above a rent rod"
wet sanding is the only way to do it if you want brand new looking headlights. I did them on my previous vw passat and removed them completely off the car and then proceeded with 800 grit, 1500 and 2000 final. i then used a polish and waxed them real good.
THT sponsor
Cloudy headlight lens 
