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I have a 2005 Sea Hunt Triton 220 on a Wesco trailer and the forward bunk carpet always seems to wear before the season is over. I added some Surfix 1/2" glide ons that screw into the carpet. They work great as the boat slides on and off a lot easier and the carpet does not wear. However, I noticed that raising up the front bunks by the 1/2" cause the boat to not sit level on the larger rear bunks. The rear bunks are not cypress with carpet like the front, but aluminum with rubber covers so I can’t add the ½” glide on’s to them. It looks like about 1/2 of the rear bunks make contact with the hull but the front half does not. The front bunks sit level with the hull. The bunks are not adjustable. I'm thinking that I am going to have to remove the slides but I thought I would post this first to see if anyone thinks the slides will cause a problem as they otherwise work fine. I tried to attach a picture to help out. Thanks for any information you can provide.
Why do you say your bunks are not adjustable?
I would suggest moving the forward bunks, some combination of out-board and up or down (if necessary), so that they support the front of the boat at the proper height to allow the rear bunks to fully contact the hull. Outboard will accomplish the same thing as down, only moving the areas of contact with the hull toward the outside.
Bill
When I took my boat to have it serviced I asked if the bunks could be adjusted to get it to work. They looked at the bolts on the large bunks and saw they were fixed as far as going up and down. The front bunks are fixed on the rear as far as up and down but appear to be able to slide on the front brace. However, he was saying both front and rear on the front bunk would have to slide to get it adjusted right.
Are you saying that rather than adjust the front bunks up and down that I should slide them outward some to allow the hull to rest down for a better fit? If so, how do you do this to get a good fit with the hull on the boat? Or, do you just have to take the boat off, adjust it, put the boat back on, adjust it, and keep going till you get it right.
Are you saying that rather than adjust the front bunks up and down that I should slide them outward some to allow the hull to rest down for a better fit? If so, how do you do this to get a good fit with the hull on the boat? Or, do you just have to take the boat off, adjust it, put the boat back on, adjust it, and keep going till you get it right.
Yes, launch the boat and move the front brackets out a couple inches. Reload and see how it sits. You may have to do it a couple of times to get it perfect. I've done a lot of research on this the past month. From everything I have read the rear bunks should be supporting the weight of the boat and the front bunks are just there to help guide and center the boat. They should not be load bearing.
I agree with rbeitz, except I think you probably only need to out about 1/2" on each side based on the picture. Looks like maybe the hull probably sat evenly on the rear bunks and then 'slicks' were added to the forward bunks, lifting the boat.
Yes, that is what happened. The 1/2" glides lifted the boat. I agree that I should start around 1/2" on each side and adjust from there as I don't want to bottom out the boat on the trailer by moving too far.
Why do you say your bunks are not adjustable?
I would suggest moving the forward bunks, some combination of out-board and up or down (if necessary), so that they support the front of the boat at the proper height to allow the rear bunks to fully contact the hull. Outboard will accomplish the same thing as down, only moving the areas of contact with the hull toward the outside.
Bill
Move the forward bunks down the 1/2" that you raised them with the glide on strips. The carpet on the front edge of the forward bunks wears out faster because that really is the only part of the bunk touching the trailer as your stern starts ftoating during launching . The carpet is also dry and doesn't have water on it to keep it "lubed" because the trailer doesn't get dunked that far in.
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That is crap.
Which idiot told you that CO2 only makes up 0.039% of the atmosphere?
1. Move the bolts on the fixed rear of the front bunk down to the next level to lower the front bunks. This looks to be 1/2" to 3/4", or
2. Slide both front bunks out 1/2" to make the front lower down.
When I previously loaded the boat on the trailer the front bunks would be 3/4 under water so the carpet that made contact first was always under water and lubricated. I would also spray it with silicone spray as well as the larger rear bunks. The rear bunks would be about 7/8" under water.
From the pictures it looks to me like you might not be able to lower the rear bunks another bolt hole without cutting off the tops of the inboard brackets. Unless the inboard and outboard rear brackets are not symmetrical, it looks like the inside bracket on each side will hit the flange on the bunk.
Lowering the rear bunks will keep you from having to back the trailer in quite as far when launching, but if the trailer otherwise works well for you I would keep it simple and just move the forward bunks outboard.
Bill
The guide slicks I put on are 1/2" thick and I measured the distance between the 2 fixed bolts on the front bunk and it is 1" so this will lower the front bunks too much. I think I will just slide the front bunks outward around 1/2" to start with and adjust from there until it settles in good on the rear and front bunks. Seems like that should work as long as I can loosen the bolts. Everyone's advice has been very helpful.
Did you trailer come with the front bunks, or did you add them? I don't have front bunks (though I want to add them this offseason) and my boat sits fine on the main/rear bunks. I would just launch your boat, move the front bunks out a few inches, then pull your boat. You should then be able to move the front bunks back in until they make contact. As others have posted your front bunks shouldn't be bearing any load, just guiding.
The trailer did come with the front bunks and my concern with the way the set up is now is that more weight is on the front than there was originally. I just assumed that the front bunks needed to be there for some support. However, I do like your suggestion as I would only have to make one adjustment to the front bunks.
Hull not quite level on Trailer Bunks 
