Installing a class IV hitch? - The Hull Truth

Loafer · 09-15-2009, 02:21 AM

Getting an 04 1500 Suburban and looks like the stock class III won't quite cut it for my 5,500# rig. Looked at the installation instructions for a Drawtite class IV and it looks pretty straight forward for a do-it-yourselfer (only one extra hole to drill in the bumper bracket beyond the stock factory holes and torque to spec).

Is this something I should just let a shop do (insurance/liability?) or can I have at it?

nautiduck · 09-15-2009, 08:38 AM

Honestly if you need to ask that question, then it means your not confidant in your abilities and skills and should just let the pros do it.

Loafer · 09-15-2009, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nautiduck

Honestly if you need to ask that question, then it means your not confidant in your abilities and skills and should just let the pros do it.

Nope, just like to be thorough in checking things out on any new project, big or small. But thanks for the really helpful response.

NoFearEyes · 09-15-2009, 04:58 PM

I'd let the shop do it. The holes are a PITA to get the screws they give you thru and having thelift, jacks, jack stands, impact wrenchs and the tolls that make it easy will make a a 4 hour job for you a 30 minute job at the shop.

I watched them install two for me and after it was allsaid and done--now way could I ahve done it with the tool i"ve got in my garage.

cjd · 09-15-2009, 05:05 PM

I am a huge fan of DIY, and the idea that if you ask the question, your in over your head is almost too dumb to comment on.

Almost.

That said, I would have the shop do it based in part on the need to drill into the bracket. Too much on the line with this one, and my guess is it will not cost you an arm and a leg

I have installed three class threes, and when you start messing around under cars with a couple years on them, it really helps to have all the right tools, and all the right angles.

nautiduck · 09-15-2009, 09:04 PM

I wasnt trying to be condescending. You asked for an opinion, and from my experiences when someone asks a question like that when there is any kind of safety factor involve, its best left to someone who knows. Your bolting on a hitch and drilling one hole, which will require a drill and two bits, and two wrenches. It really very basic bolt on the hitch with two bolts per side mark where the hole needs to be drilled. if you can access it easily while leaving the hitch in place then leave it if not take it off. Drill your pilot hole either 3/16" or 1/4" then depending on the size of the bolt drill a hole 1/8" bigger than the bolt diameter. Bolt the hitch on using the proper washers grade of bolts and nuts and torque to spec. Im all for DIY but seriously if your not confident in your abilities for that simple of an install, well.....

liveaboard74 · 09-16-2009, 03:37 AM

Took me about 45 minuets to install that monster. I don't worry about the boat behind me. Torklift by superwench. You can get any length you want on the arms up to 30 inches behind your truck. Not that hard to take off eather. Undo the turnbuckles, pop out two pins and its off. Mine stays on all the time and I wired the light plug by the end by the ball. Small price to pay for peace of mind.

Loafer · 09-16-2009, 03:49 AM

Thanks. Looks like extra hole drilling is only required for a class V hitch. Class IV uses all original holes (at least for Drawtite)

Class V http://www.draw-tite.com/fitguides/pdf/N41930.pdf

Class IV http://www.draw-tite.com/fitguides/pdf/N41540.pdf

I'll certainly get an install price from a shop but if no drilling at all required I think it will take me all of 20 minutes assuming I'm not fighting frozen bolts on the existing hitch. I think I still have my breaker bar

Quote:

Originally Posted by nautiduck

I wasnt trying to be condescending. You asked for an opinion, and from my experiences when someone asks a question like that when there is any kind of safety factor involve, its best left to someone who knows. Your bolting on a hitch and drilling one hole, which will require a drill and two bits, and two wrenches. It really very basic bolt on the hitch with two bolts per side mark where the hole needs to be drilled. if you can access it easily while leaving the hitch in place then leave it if not take it off. Drill your pilot hole either 3/16" or 1/4" then depending on the size of the bolt drill a hole 1/8" bigger than the bolt diameter. Bolt the hitch on using the proper washers grade of bolts and nuts and torque to spec. Im all for DIY but seriously if your not confident in your abilities for that simple of an install, well.....

Thanks for the much improved response. Purchased plenty of ultra simple add-on things where holes don't line up, access is next to zero, interference from other parts, some brands far better than others, etc, etc. Always interested in hearing peoples experience in doing something I am about to do for the first time. Like experience with Reese vs Drawtite vs other.

FWIW, just got done building a dock and installing a 10k 4-piling lift myself (along with a 220V GFI circuit). Let's see, gutted and rehabbed a canal front house including releveling the entire house with hydraulic jacks, and oh yeah, sold a company I started based on a 300mm semiconductor inspection tool I designed/built with 2 partners (so I could retire early and play with boats). Asked tons of questions every time and it saved me lots of headaches. My humble experience is when you don't ask questions it takes longer and costs more. Cheers!

nautiduck · 09-16-2009, 06:52 AM

And you were concerned about installing a hitch? I understand asking before hand but I think you overestimated the install if you can level a house, and I know what that entails, youll have no problem with a hitch. As for the rusted nuts a 30" breaker bar, a torch, and penetrating oil should make it easy. If not a 30" breaker bar on each side will usually twist the bolts in half. Of course its usually worth spending $75 bucks to avoid the agravation and skinned knuckles. So you're obviously capable, I take it you were just asking if it was worth the time and aggravation?

welder · 09-19-2009, 11:56 PM

And remember that installing a bigger hitch on your Vehicle DOES NOT increase the towing capacity of your vehicle.

SHAMROCK69 · 09-22-2009, 06:13 AM

I am usually an avid do it your selfer but U-Haul does the install for like $35 bucks if you buy the hitch from them. I had an F150 with a Class III hitch and was in your same boat. Had U-Haul install a class IV and as I was looking online at hitches there installed price was about the same as buying online and getting shipped to house.

Class IV were not readily available for me so I had to have U-Haul order and figured just let them put it on. They have big ramp to get back of truck high in air, a tool that holds the hitch in place while they install and a drill on a press that drills up if you need any holes. Guy who did mine also had to move trailer lights and did a neat clean job. To me the tools he had to make his job easier Vs. the minimal extra cost made it well worth having them do it.

In this case I am going to have to respectfully disagree with Welder as my truck as equipped from factory is rated to tow 7200 Lbs but the factory hitch was only rated at 5K. By upgrading to a class IV hitch I figure I can not tow 7200.

I am like you and like to ask for advce before doing a project like this as you sometimes pick up tips or hear of snags. I posted this questions on the shamrock site and got some responses that some said the factory hitch was fine and others upgraded. When compared side to side the Class IV is a stronger hitch and you are smart to upgrade.

welder · 09-22-2009, 09:45 PM

Shamrock, the reason there is a Class 3 on that truck and most other 1/2 tons is, The class 3 hitch is rated to 5K and the Class IV hitch is rated to 10,000 lbs , which, by the way is well over your MAX TOW RATING . So they [ The factory ] installs a Class 3 .

My math says that 10,000 is 2,800 lbs more than 7,200 lbs and this is why I say ................The Class IV does not increase the tow Capacity of your Vehicle. Most people will not tow more than 70% of the tow rating of the vehicle for a good safety margin rule of thumb , which, by the way works VERY well.

And legally speaking , if your towing more than 5K with a 2" ball and 2" receiver , your illegal there also as bumper pull 2" balls are only rated at 5K [ Does NOT include GOOSE NECK Applications ]

fishingfun · 09-23-2009, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Loafer

Getting an 04 1500 Suburban and looks like the stock class III won't quite cut it for my 5,500# rig. Looked at the installation instructions for a Drawtite class IV and it looks pretty straight forward for a do-it-yourselfer (only one extra hole to drill in the bumper bracket beyond the stock factory holes and torque to spec).

Is this something I should just let a shop do (insurance/liability?) or can I have at it?

I have a 2004 Yukon XL full size and it only took me 45min max to switch hitches. If I'm correct the hitch sould be rated to handle 6,000 and 600 tung weight. Personally after I had the two side by side I felt I was waisting my time switching them but my boat weighs around 6,500 so I did what was said I needed to do.

welder · 09-23-2009, 11:56 AM

With a straight 2"receiver hitch and 2" ball your good for 5K .

With a 2 1/2 hitch [ Like some Manufactures use now ] your good for 6K and you will see 2" ball stamped 6000lbs.

G8RDave · 09-23-2009, 02:15 PM

I switched my factory Class III for a Class IV receiver in about 30 minutes on my F-150. The tow rating for the truck was 6,500 but the tow rating on the receiver was just 5000. My total package weight (boat, trailer, full tanks, accessories, beer) comes to just under 6,500 so I felt better with a stronger receiver, hitch and ball. The hitch, ball and trailer are all rated higher than needed. My truck is now the weakest link, and I'm okay with that so long as I am still under its tow rating.