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What is a weight-distributing hitch? Do I need one?
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What is a weight-distributing hitch? Do I need one?
My Ford manual says any towing >3500 lbs requires a weight distributing hitch.
I have an '03 Explorer V8 4x4 with tow package, 2" receiver, 3.73 rear axle... All of this was stock. The manual also says I can tow up to 7000 lbs, or a GCWR of 11,600 lbs.
So is the hitch that came with the vehicle a "weight-distributing hitch"??
If not, do I really need one? What modifications are required? How much could I expect to pay for one to be installed?
I know, these are dumb new-guy questions, but I'm trying to be prepared for the 5800 lbs of a boat/motor/trailer combo that I'll be purchasing soon
These aren't dumb, new-guy questions. Too many people don't ask these questions until it's too late.
Very few people pulling boats on trailers follow the tow vehicle mfr directions to use a weight distributing hitch when pulling heavier loads, and most do so without experiencing any troubles. You'll probably have some people experienced with pulling the type of load you're describing tell you what their experiences have been, so I'll try to give you my perspective as a user of a weight-distributing hitch. My last two rigs have been in the 8500 - 11000 lb range, and my weight distributing hitches have improved my towing experience tremendously.
I use an Equalizer Hitch (http://www.equalizerhitch.com/produc...stribution.php) which combines weight distribution with some anti-sway capability. It's also the only weight-distributing hitch I'm aware of that is compatible with surge brakes, which is the most common brake actuation system on boat trailers. From my personal experience there is some degradation in the brake system performance when an equalizer-hitch is used, but not too much.
If you've got a standard 2" receiver your truck is compatible with weight-distributing hitches. Beyond hooking up the standard coupler to the ball on the hitch you'll then need to hook up some spring bars (some light-duty systems may only have one spring bar) each time you hook up the trailer. There is some initial setup/adjustment required of the system that is only done once. Once everything is set up properly there is only a few moments of additional effort to hook everything else up, not a big deal at all for the additional stability you get.
There are no modifications to the truck required. A bracket system for connecting the spring bars will be required on the trailer.
Looks like prices for weight-distributing hitches start ~$200.00.
Glock, when you get your rig . Take the whole shooten match down to a scale and weight it wet { Ready to fish } then you will know what you need to put it .
Weight the whole rig , then weigh the boat on the trailer , you will get two weight slips . Then do the math.
You will be SURPRISED at the numbers.
__________________ F350 4x4/ Dodge 2500HD 5.9L Cummins
Leaving the Picture of the Ford cuz I miss it
Pacific 2325 cc
Honda bf225
aluminumalloyboats.com
Hammer and jeffnick- thanks for the info! I will look into these when I get my rig setup. $200 isn't too bad. I was envisioning some sort of modification to my existing hitch.
jeffnick- That's a good deal of boat behind your Mountaineer! How did it perform on the ramp and on the highway?
Yeah, get a wet weight on it. Boat builders tend to be conservative with their weight estimates. I wouldn't be surprised if that turns into something closer to 7,000 pounds.
Weight distributing hitches work by throwing some of the trailer weight forward onto the front axle of the tow vehicle. This helps you keep control when things happen and your rig starts bouncing around and trying to lift your front end off the road. Depending on how your rig is balanced this might never happen; on others it will start with the first rut in the road.
Short wheelbase bumper pull tow vehicles will be more sensitive to this than long wheelbase vehicles. An F350 extended cab diesel has a longer lever and a heavier piece of cast iron on the front of it to counteract the forces on the tow hitch than a short SUV. I assume this is why Ford specs a weight distributing hitch starting at 3,500 pounds instead of 5,000 like a normal pickup.
I've pulled overweight trailers without a WDH. (What can I say? Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment.) I didn't enjoy the white-knuckle moments.
Unfortunately WDHs and surge brakes don't play well together. My personal preference is to replace the surge brake controller with a remote activated electric over juice system. It might not be legally required but I like being able to easily test my brakes before moving the rig and not having to worry about interactions with the WDH.
You might want to check your local laws as well. Some jurisdictions require WDHs above 5k and surge brakes are only allowed up to 6,150 lbs. And then there's the places that don't allow surge brakes at all. Doesn't sound like Florida is one of those by a long shot.
Welder.... You hit the nail right on the head there. I got 20,000 pound tags and never though twice about how much I weighed till last week. Have had DMV ride beside me till they saw the weighted tag then they go on. Finially pulled it over the scale last week just for my own personal info. 21000 pounds with 3/4 tank in the boat and 2/3 in the dodge no ice or gear in the boat.
You will be suprised what you will weight!!!!
__________________ Fountain 31TE...... Hydra Sports 21 Bay...... Dodge 3500 Camping unit "Gone Fishing"..... Tinker Toy..... Sunset Point Nixonton NC
Good posts, all. Just a caution with a WDH. These hitches work by limiting the angle of the hitch. That is to say that if the trailer is heavy enought to sag the rear of the tow vehicle enough that the hitch-coupler joint is not a straight line but a shallow V, the WDH will hold the joint in a straight line (or where ever you adjust it to). Any excess load attempting to sag that joint further is tranferred to the entire tow vehicle as the WDH will prevent any further sag of the tow vehcle by preventing the angle of the joint to change. The problem arises when you take a long truck/trailer rig and go thru a substantial dip like you would find in the back roads at the shore leading to some ramps. As the tow vehicle begins to ascend the far side of the dip, the WDH will not allow the angle to change between the tow vehicle and the trailer and could actually lift the tow vehicles rear wheels off the ground or damage the hitch. If you get stuck like this it's difficult to release them under load. It's easy, however, to release them prior to getting in that predicament so use caution when the bottom of a hill immediately starts going up again with a long rig. Nearly all of these hitches are flexible in the other direction so if you go over a hump in the road and the hitch becomes an inverted V they won't interfere.
__________________ Ed Panzella
"BAITS MOTEL"
2450 MAYCRAFT PILOTHOUSE
Higganum, Ct
As a new guy to boats, I really appreciate all the helpful tips and hints that you guys have provided here.
I stopped by an Equalizer dealer last week to ask about their WDH, and the salesman talked me out of buying one. Said I probably wouldn't need it with my towing configuration, and suggested trying to tow it without a WDH first.
This weekend I bought the Aquasport 225 over in Ft. Lauderdale! For our sea trial, I insisted that we use my vehicle to tow the boat to the ramp, and retrieve the boat. I must say I was impressed. Pulled it up the ramp with no problems, didn't even need 4WD. Acceleration and handing were affected though, which I expected, but I maintained 60mph on the interstate towing it home. Was surprised to see how little the rear end sagged-- maybe 2-3 inches? It was not noticeable. The biggest hills we have in Florida are interstate overpasses, and it slowed a little then, but I can see where several advised not towing it through hilly/mountainous terrain. That wouldn't be fun.
Today I'll tow it to the scales and weigh it.
Tomorrow we are out on the water!
Here we are:
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingair
What is the towing capacity of your SUV?
That Mountaineer likely has the identical towing capacity of my Explorer, since they're the same vehicle. I have a 7000 lb tow capacity, with a GCVR of 11,600.
Last edited by Glock Diver; 09-21-2009 at 06:07 AM.
I stopped by an Equalizer dealer last week to ask about their WDH, and the salesman talked me out of buying one. Said I probably wouldn't need it with my towing configuration, and suggested trying to tow it without a WDH first.
Was surprised to see how little the rear end sagged-- maybe 2-3 inches? It was not noticeable.
Interesting he'd say this without knowing your rig's axle and tongue weights. Hopefully that lack of sag is from heavy springs and not a light tongue .
My '06 Expedition is rated to tow 5,000#. With a WDH it increases to almost 9,000#. My boat/trailer weighs a little over 8,000#. I used to tow it to the local ramp, a few miles away without the Equalizer because I didn't want the extra hassle of putting on the WDH. This season I decided not to do that any longer, it's just not worth it. The rig rides so much better with the WDH. And on the highway, it's a must.
I'm really surprised the guy talked you out of the Equalizer. From what I see in your photo, I believe you'd be much safer with it. I also agree with the poster that felt an Explorer without a WDH isn't exactly up to the task of towing your boat. Another nice thing about the Equalizer is that it can stay on the trailer if you update your tow vehicle. This is the third Expedition and the 2nd trailer I've used it on.
What is a weight-distributing hitch? Do I need one? 
