Trailer frame clips to hold wire. - Page 2 - The Hull Truth

actionc · 09-20-2009, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowdogs

x4 - Many trailer companies do this as SOP.

X5

fooltain · 09-20-2009, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by me00351

i used zipties for mine.
just drill a 1/4 inch hole every 3 or 4 feet and insert the skinny part of the ziptie , wrap it around the wire and run it back through the hole and into the locking part of the zip. use the black uv protected zips and it will last a long time.

I have my brake hoses that way too.

X3, just finished rewiring my trailer today. I probably over did it, but I ran Anchor 16/3 from the tongue down both sides to the new Pole LED lights on my guide posts. This gives a continues marine grade wire back to the brake lights with no joints that go underwater. Then from the pole lights I ran 16/3 back down to the bottom break LED lights where I attached 16/2 to run to the running LED lights. Hopefully incorporating a ground wire will tackle the corrosion issues where the stainless screw of for the lights hits the aluminum on the trailer. All connections have heat shrink butt connectors, covered in liquid electric tape, wrapped in regular electric...going to wrap all of that in some sort of grease boot connector. I hope I get many years of service, and if my secondary lights ever do have a problem I'll have the top pole lights to keep me legal while returning home or trying to finish a trip.

It wouldn't take much to drill the holes and use the wire ties.

Nomis · 09-20-2009, 09:54 PM

I left the old wiring and zip tied to that.

Steve762us · 09-20-2009, 09:59 PM

What do they do for you? Once the wiring harness has been pulled thru the trailer frame, it's not going anywhere--you don't need any hardware to "immobilize" it. Those things are going to start crevice corrosion, or galvanic corrosion...try taping the harness as you pull it thru, if you feel a need for more protection.

me00351 · 09-21-2009, 04:23 AM

here's my installation which will last a very long time .
i used ancor 16/3 marine grade wire on each side too and heat shrink butt connectors.

the 16/3 runs all the way from the tongue to the lights

i used led lights

fooltain · 09-21-2009, 06:21 AM

I'm glad I'm not the only one. You'll still get corrosion over time, the saltwater will still wick up under the butt connectors. If we weren't dunking them under water they'd work a lot better. But they'll still last lots longer than the hardware that comes in a standard wiring kit

To me the heat shrinks work better because they help with the mechanical fatigue of the wire joint. I'd either spray judiciously with an electrical lubricant and wrap in a grease boot connector.

Or redo the connections immediately cover heat shrink connections with liquid tape. Tape with electrical tape and grease boot it. Often the butt connectors heat shrink material gets damaged when crimping the wire. This thin area will break over time or when you heat up the connector.

I got rained out yesterday before I could take pictures.

slapshot · 09-27-2009, 12:22 PM

x6 on the zip ties. Easy to install and replace if needed. Also you can route the wires in any direction. My trailer came with the zip ties which hold the wires and brake lines. Very neat install that keeps them down in the corners and away from anything that could hit them.