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Old 09-11-2009, 09:02 PM
  #21    
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with that deep V watch the angle at the ramp make sure the V can't strike anything solid getting on or off the trailer. Rollers do ok but I really like front bunks on a deep V hull in the front. Trailer angle at the ramp can allow the V to contact the cross beams before the rollers catch the hull and starts to lift it. Seen it done and the keel got all chipped up and thats not kool. That is a sharp looking rig
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Old 09-14-2009, 08:46 PM
  #22    
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Originally Posted by fldmax View Post
with that deep V watch the angle at the ramp make sure the V can't strike anything solid getting on or off the trailer. Rollers do ok but I really like front bunks on a deep V hull in the front. Trailer angle at the ramp can allow the V to contact the cross beams before the rollers catch the hull and starts to lift it. Seen it done and the keel got all chipped up and thats not kool. That is a sharp looking rig
Listen to this advice very carefully. I have the same boat and trailer as you racedad, and i had to make a few adjustments also.
The problem with moving those front roller assemblies out to the side is during loading and unloading you will lose support of the front of the bow on any kind of incline, and your keel can (and probably will) hit either the carpeted v-bunk or a crossbeam, and skin up your keel.
I had to have a chip in my keel fixed already. I had a keel guard installed when i had the chip fixed and it has already saved it from happening again.
Your keel should sit about 2 inches above the carpeted v-bunk, 1/4 inch is too close in my opinion, you're almost guaranteed a skinned up keel.
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Old 09-15-2009, 07:23 AM
  #23    
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[quote=fldmax;2509673]with that deep V watch the angle at the ramp make sure the V can't strike anything solid getting on or off the trailer. Rollers do ok but I really like front bunks on a deep V hull in the front. Trailer angle at the ramp can allow the V to contact the cross beams before the rollers catch the hull and starts to lift it. Seen it done and the keel got all chipped up and thats not kool. That is a sharp looking rig

Thanks for the comments. I did check for the clearence on the cross beams and seemed to be plenty of room for keel to clear. Not sure if all crossmembers are the same, but mine have the same profile as the keel. It appears when retrieving, the front rollers catch before the keel hits the crossmember. There is about 3" from keel to crossmember just as the front rollers catch, due to the profile of the crossmember(has a V in the center of crossmember).

I'm going to check into having bunks put on verses the rollers. I measured a trailer identical to mine except it had bunks and its seems pretty simple to change it over.
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Last edited by racedad70; 09-15-2009 at 07:28 AM. Reason: wording
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:27 AM
  #24    
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As mentioned before, watch for the bow V hitting the cross menbers with a steep ramp. My boat is smaller but on a steep ramp the V hits before the hull contacts the bunks. My trailer came with a "plastic" piece on the cross member to protect the keel in those cases. I don't have a name for it but a plastic skid or even a roller surely would be cheap insurance to keep from damaging your hull.
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:33 AM
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As mentioned before, watch for the bow V hitting the cross menbers with a steep ramp. My boat is smaller but on a steep ramp the V hits before the hull contacts the bunks. My trailer came with a "plastic" piece on the cross member to protect the keel in those cases. I don't have a name for it but a plastic skid or even a roller surely would be cheap insurance to keep from damaging your hull.
Mike
I will def. keep this in mind. Good idea about a center roller. May have to do this if I decide not to do the bunks.
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Last edited by racedad70; 09-15-2009 at 09:37 AM. Reason: spelling
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