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Random Quote: No Ma'm were not drunk anymore....were just stupid
I have read some conflicting information about the engine when trailering. Some sites say to lift the engine and then block it, others say not. I have a 20' with a 150hp engine. I usually trailer it with the engine down. Looking for some comments on the best way..
I always lift mine. I dont have a choice. The skeg on my motor is inches from the ground when trimed all the way down. I trailer less than a mile to the ramp so I just trim it up, flip the lock over and then trim down till the lock touches. If I were trailering long distances I would get a outboard brace for it.
Frank
__________________ "Fin-Addict"
2002 Seaswirl Striper 2101cc Yamaha 150
Gloucester, Ma
I use the cheap man's transom saver...a 2x4 cut to the width of the motor bracket. Don't want to trailer them down in case the props/skegs scrape. Don't like them up for the extra leveraged weight on the transom. The 2x4 turned on edge seems to fit the bill nicely...
I use the cheap man's transom saver...a 2x4 cut to the width of the motor bracket. Don't want to trailer them down in case the props/skegs scrape. Don't like them up for the extra leveraged weight on the transom. The 2x4 turned on edge seems to fit the bill nicely...
X 2
__________________
That is crap.
Which idiot told you that CO2 only makes up 0.039% of the atmosphere?
I'd say up also, I guess your boat motor must be high off the ground when trailered. I towed my boat home about 50 minutes not realizing that it wasn't set down on the lock and I went over one speed bump that made me realize quickly. Didn't do damage cause I was driving slow enough but made me inspect the transom real good when I parked it.
I use the 2x4 method too...I did see a guy recently pulling his boat up the ramp while grinding the skeg off a nice shiny Yamaha 4 stroke that was in the down position....
I have read some conflicting information about the engine when trailering. Some sites say to lift the engine and then block it, others say not.
If it's going to hit the pavement in the down position, you better lift it. I had a stern drive and put it in the "trailer" (up) position. It would have hit the pavement otherwise.
As others have posted, you can buy or make a support if you don't think the engine manufacturer's arrangement or your boat's transom is sturdy enough.
I have read some conflicting information about the engine when trailering. Some sites say to lift the engine and then block it, others say not. I have a 20' with a 150hp engine. I usually trailer it with the engine down. Looking for some comments on the best way..
Down is better if you have enough clearance from the road to ensure it won't hit. With many setups, you have to tilt up. In that case, there's all sorts of techniques to ensure the motor stays up. A 2x4 works, but you better make sure it won't fall out. In my case, I use an MY Wedge.
I trailer with mine up, using the factory installed tilt-lock feature. The previous owner used Transom Savers. In my opinion, those things do more harm than good, transmitting every bump and jostle directly to the most delicate part of your engine, the lower unit.
Originally Posted by triumphrick
I use the cheap man's transom saver...a 2x4 cut to the width of the motor bracket. Don't want to trailer them down in case the props/skegs scrape. Don't like them up for the extra leveraged weight on the transom. The 2x4 turned on edge seems to fit the bill nicely...
The one thing you have to remember to do if you use the 2 x 4 method like I do is to make sure that the piece of 2 x 4 your using has a small chain attached to it or some other type of method to keep it from becoming a missle if it slips off while trailering down the road, that would suck.
for the last 6+ years and usually trailering 1 hr each way thru hilly and some bumpy roads I've not run into any issues with trailering Yamaha v6 engines tilted up and locked with the factory tilt locks.
Not to say i have no concerns . . . my concerns are:
1. for outboard powered boats that the transom is not over stressed
2. changes in various approach angles or bumps that could damage lower unit/prop(s) if engine is in the down position (so i tilt engines up)
3. road debris damage to lower unit (chips to lower unit paint or worse)
4. dust intrusion to lower unit water intakes that may end up going thru engine when fired up
Tilting the engines seems to move the engine's lower unit and prop out of the firing line of crap such as small rocks that fly up from tires, especially if you hit some gravel road sections. Also i would think tilting the engines moves the engine mass more closely on top of the transom rather than hanging off the transom and reducing some stress off the transom if hard or large bumps are encountered.
I've used a 2x4 for a small portable engines with out hydraulic trim/tilt while trailering, but not for the larger engines, but will take a look at it again as i'm going to install a utility box on the trailer and can more easily store things like that.
I always lift mine. I dont have a choice. The skeg on my motor is inches from the ground when trimed all the way down. I trailer less than a mile to the ramp so I just trim it up, flip the lock over and then trim down till the lock touches. If I were trailering long distances I would get a outboard brace for it.
Frank
Hi wondering if anyone can give me advice please.
Ive got a yamaha 2.5hp 4 stroke engine, the engine manual tells me that the engine needs to be down and locked in the running position when being trailered. But over here i cant do that as no road is flat or smooth and it will just smack the ground
So the engine needs to be in the tilt position it then says in that case you will need a transom saver bar. Which for 1:- would never work with my trailor and 2:- i was told its a waste of money. All i would need would be a 2x4 block of wood cut to fit which has been made for me.
Can anybody confirm that would be ideal and safe to use??
Hi wondering if anyone can give me advice please.
Ive got a yamaha 2.5hp 4 stroke engine, the engine manual tells me that the engine needs to be down and locked in the running position when being trailered. But over here i cant do that as no road is flat or smooth and it will just smack the ground
So the engine needs to be in the tilt position it then says in that case you will need a transom saver bar. Which for 1:- would never work with my trailor and 2:- i was told its a waste of money. All i would need would be a 2x4 block of wood cut to fit which has been made for me.
Can anybody confirm that would be ideal and safe to use??
many thanks.
where can i get one of those them there 2.5hp motors???
do you lift your engine when trailering? 
