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Show some pics of your 2x4 in place ready to trailer.
jock2o,
two and one half hp?
Being that it is a 4 stroke, be sure to give the oil time to drain down once you tilt it vertical prior to starting.
Use the 2x4.
I lift mine, then make sure the safety pins/locks are down and tilt engine back down until the locks are firmly resting on the mount. This (I believe) takes the pressure off the hydraulics.
I lower both of my motors (Yamaha F250's) until the weight is distributed across all the 3 of the rams on my Yamahas. My dealer told me not to use the factory locks because there was a problem with them breaking after a while causing the engine to slam down and crack or break the transom. They were designed to be used for storage and not trailering?. I don't know if that is the case but I took their advise since they are the ones that would have to fix it. I figure if the rams can hold the pressure of your motor while running at WOT as well as while you are getting on plane, they can handle to pressure of trailering without a whole lot of problem. Thats just MHO.
A good alternatve is the Lock-n-Haul. This is the only 4 point inline suport that completely stabilizes the outboard in travel position, both the trim and steering pivots. It adjusts to fit most brands/models/sizes and is small, lightweight and tough. It will do what all transom saver/motor toter/motor support devices should do but don't. Check it out at http://www.lock-n-haul.com
You definitely want to support your motor so it will not move while trailering so as to avoid the road shock being transmitted to it. As already stated, the Lock-n-Haul will stop all movement and prevent damage to your motor. It also fits just about any motor.
I always towed my Pursuit with the motors down, However i had alot of clearance. The further out from the transom you swing your motor, the more rotational force (moment) you place on the transom and on the brackets, mounts, etc of the motor...
Show some pics of your 2x4 in place ready to trailer.
jock2o,
two and one half hp?
Being that it is a 4 stroke, be sure to give the oil time to drain down once you tilt it vertical prior to starting.
Use the 2x4.
I have always meant to get those tubes for trailering? sofar nothing??
And I am always affraid the 2x4 will fall out and hit the guys windshied behind me? so for years I have done nothing but tilt the engine just high enough to be well clear of road? Guess what I havent had a tilt trim problem yet?? Maybe its over rated? I trailer hundreds of miles many times a year?
And I am always affraid the 2x4 will fall out and hit the guys windshied behind me? so for years I have done nothing but tilt the engine just high enough to be well clear of road? Guess what I havent had a tilt trim problem yet?? Maybe its over rated? I trailer hundreds of miles many times a year?
Note the safety lanyard in the pictures above your post. The way you are describing tilting your engines puts a lot of strain on the trim cylinders when you hit bumps in the road.
About 5 years ago, I read a similar thread, and decided to leave mine down for the ride home - VA beach to Annapolis. a mile before the bay bridge, I lost the entire wheel on the right side. Shaved the spindle in half on the axle, and shaved about 4 inches off the Skeg, Trashed the prop as well.
I tow with mine up now. Factory lock seems to work fine.
Note the safety lanyard in the pictures above your post. The way you are describing tilting your engines puts a lot of strain on the trim cylinders when you hit bumps in the road.
Like I said it never caused a problem for me? So maybe its an urban legend?
If anyone out there has ever heard of a single instance of an engine or transom being damaged because the boat was trailered with the engine in the up position, please post so here. There seems to be an entire industry devoted to this fear, and incessant discussions on boating-related websites; and yet, in years of watching all of this, I've never once heard of an actual case where damage occured.
My manual says the lock is NOT for trailering. (Nissan) To me, there's no way trailering can put more pressure on the transom than accelerating and getting on plane or running in rough water. I tilt mine out of danger from road rash.
Mike
__________________ They weren't biting at all.....then they slacked up.
I agree that there are some tilt-locks that are not sturdy enough for towing when the engine does not have hydraulic tilt. In those cases, some sort of support would be advisable. I had a 25hp Suzuki that had the flimsiest tilt-lock I'd ever seen. I used bungee cords to supplement it, but it never failed. I think any supplemental support piece should transfer the weight to the engine bracket, not the trailer.
If the boat has hydraulic tilt, I don't think any supplemental support is required. The tilt-lock is simply there to keep the engine up in case the hydraulics fail. The hydraulic ram takes the weight, as it should. It is much more sturdy than any other component of the tilt system or bracket.
