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Just doing some research for a possible project down the road. I have a single axle aluminum trailer, and may have to add another axle, due to the weight of my boat. Has anyone ever fooled with a project like this? If I add another axle, would I have to install brakes? All intel is appreciated. Thanks.
Some things I'd consider:
Is the frame up to the weight of the boat even with two axles?
You can't just add another axle in front of or behind the existing axle, you would most likely need to line up the location of the current axle as the center of the new axle locations. So you need room to mount an axle aft of the current axle location.
If you need another axle I would think that you would also need brakes. The legal requirement is likely based on GVW rather than whether you're trailer has two axles or one. Looks like Alabama requires brakes if GVW exceeds 3000 lbs.
Bill
Just doing some research for a possible project down the road. I have a single axle aluminum trailer, and may have to add another axle, due to the weight of my boat. Has anyone ever fooled with a project like this? If I add another axle, would I have to install brakes? All intel is appreciated. Thanks.
I'm curious as to how you got into that situation. Added weight to the boat, bigger engine, boat not matched to the trailer in the first place, etc.
Regardless, as others have pointed out, adding another axle does not automatically increase the capacity of the trailer. The frame and crossmembers as well as the bunks or rollers have to be up to the task. If you've somehow overloaded your trailer, replacing it with an appropriate trailer is probably the best option. You can sell the current trailer.
As for brakes, it's not the number of axles, but the weight of the loaded trailer (GVWR) that determines the need for brakes. State laws vary on this, and in some states, brakes are required on all axles.
I no longer tow, but during my boat towing years, I found out that the ability to stop the vehicle and trailer on short notice was very valuable indeed. Get or put effective brakes on your trailer ASAP.
[quote=rwidman;2376658]I'm curious as to how you got into that situation. Added weight to the boat, bigger engine, boat not matched to the trailer in the first place, etc.
Yeah, I wasn't paying attention, and got snookered by the dealer. Boat has a 42 gallon fuel cell, and when it is empty, the boat and motor comes in at about 50 pounds less than the maximum carrying capacity of the trailer. I called the dealer, but he was not interested in helping me. I consulted an attorney, and he says I definitely can make him buy the trailer back, but will be out attorney fees. Not really worth the effort from a financial standpoint. Thanks for all the input.
I'm curious as to how you got into that situation. Added weight to the boat, bigger engine, boat not matched to the trailer in the first place, etc.
Yeah, I wasn't paying attention, and got snookered by the dealer. Boat has a 42 gallon fuel cell, and when it is empty, the boat and motor comes in at about 50 pounds less than the maximum carrying capacity of the trailer. I called the dealer, but he was not interested in helping me. I consulted an attorney, and he says I definitely can make him buy the trailer back, but will be out attorney fees. Not really worth the effort from a financial standpoint. Thanks for all the input.
I would expect the dealer to take the trailer back in trade on a proper trailer (you'll have to pay the extra cost but you would have anyway) and I would expect someone from your local consumer protection agency or TV or newspaper to be able to help you convince him to do so.
Take the fully loaded boat and trailer to a public scale and get a certified weight. Then compare it to the GVWR of the trailer. That's your ammunition.
When I noticed that my boat was about 100 pounds more than the rated trailer capacity, I wrote to the manufacturer. His exact words were, "The trailer won't self destruct just because it's overloaded by a hundred pounds". He didn't elaborate any further and I didn't need him to.
Some folks enjoy the fight, and for them it's fun to 'go after' the dealer. Getting into legal stuff or even arguing with a seller is not my cup of tea. I'd rather be boating and if I can take care of things myself I can/do.YMMV.
If you do somehow end up with a new trailer, it might not be right and need to go back in for adjustments and repairs...maybe the boat won't fit on it correctly.You might want to consider how far you'll take this and how it will effect the pleasure of your boating before you decide to make someone else responsible.
When I noticed that my boat was about 100 pounds more than the rated trailer capacity, I wrote to the manufacturer. His exact words were, "The trailer won't self destruct just because it's overloaded by a hundred pounds". He didn't elaborate any further and I didn't need him to.
Some folks enjoy the fight, and for them it's fun to 'go after' the dealer. Getting into legal stuff or even arguing with a seller is not my cup of tea. I'd rather be boating and if I can take care of things myself I can/do.YMMV.
If you do somehow end up with a new trailer, it might not be right and need to go back in for adjustments and repairs...maybe the boat won't fit on it correctly.You might want to consider how far you'll take this and how it will effect the pleasure of your boating before you decide to make someone else responsible.
Jeff,
I wouldn't fuss over one hundred pounds either. I found out the second year that my boat was overloading the trailer (and the truck) but at that point it was too late to do anything about it. Several years and at least 10K miles later, I sold it and had no weight related troubles in the meantime.
As it turns out Glastron was understating the weight of the boat by more than 1000 lb. Not really the dealer's fault for selling it with the trailer he selected.
I'm just suggesting ways he might make this right without trying to modify the trailer. I don't think that's a good solution.
And I think a decent dealer would take the trailer back in exchange for the appropriate one with the purchaser paying the difference.
I don't particularly care if the dealer lives or dies. I am looking to get the trailer fixed (The suspension collapsed on the highway) I called the dealer , and he wasn't interested in helping me out. Lesson learned. My first attempt to alleviate the problem was to purchase 2, 4 leaf springs, which I am in the process of installing. (the original springs were 3 leaf) If this is successful, or not, I will let you guys know. I appreciate all the intel. This is the least expensive "fix" Wish me luck. Thanks.
If the trailer is overloaded you can add a higher capacity axle (if it's got a 3500 under it...you could go to a 5200 and add a pair of 5 leaf springs....with 6 lug hubs and 15" rims....225-75/15 D rated tires....that would be about the max you could do with a single axle...of course a tandem would tow better...but to upgrade it to a heavier single axle is simpler...it depends on what kind of towing you do...if just around town...low speeds...the single can be OK...but if it's highway...higher speeds...sell the trailer and get a tandem....unless you have enough room to add a 2nd axle.
BTW, Champion Trailers will make a custom size axle for you for a pretty good price...I had one made for my old Load Rite 5 years ago and it worked out great....not to say this the best way to do it...but I took a trailer that was overloaded and made it as safe as I could.....and it's fine for the way I use it...
__________________
1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
4.0/NV 242 Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
5.7 HEMI/Quadradrive II
I don't particularly care if the dealer lives or dies. I am looking to get the trailer fixed (The suspension collapsed on the highway) I called the dealer , and he wasn't interested in helping me out. Lesson learned. My first attempt to alleviate the problem was to purchase 2, 4 leaf springs, which I am in the process of installing. (the original springs were 3 leaf) If this is successful, or not, I will let you guys know. I appreciate all the intel. This is the least expensive "fix" Wish me luck. Thanks.
Something doesn't match up here. If the suspension collapsed on the highway, this trailer must be seriously overloaded, not just by a few pounds or even a couple hundred pounds. How about the tires? Are they overloaded? Did you weigh the boat and trailer to determine it's actual weight?
Your trailer's frame is just as important in determining capacity as the springs, axles or tires.
I believe you are wasting your time and money as well as endangering your boat and other motorists by trying to "upgrade" your trailer.
If you can't persuade your dealer to make things right or don't want to go to the effort, you should sell the trailer before you do anything other than repair it and buy a trailer with the design capacity to hold your boat.
Well, I just returned from an attempt at fishing, and the trailer seems to have held up. It is about 60 miles one way from my house to Dauphin Island. There and back with no problems. I did have to get new u bolts for the 4 leaf springs. Not successful with the fishing, as the water was a little too choppy for my bride's comfort. I am pleased thus far with the trailer.
Just out of curiousity, what is the year make and model of your boat, and the year make and model of the trailer?
I am currently in the process of getting a new trailer for my boat, and wondered about the load capacity specs for your model??
Joe,
As others have rightly said, the best solution is trading that trailer for one of proper capacity. As far as upgrading it's capacity, you should contact the factory and find out if the axle is the limiting factor on that trailer. Another words, they may have a trailer with substatially higher weight capacity that's identical to yours with the exception of a heavier axle. This would be an easy upgrade. If the limiting factor is the frame, than a heavier axle may cause a frame failure on the road with some ugly consequences. You shouldn't guess at this particularly with an aluminum frame. As for your original question, going with double axles vs single does increase the load capacity of the frame as the load is spread out over twice the area and the spans are reduced. If the factory does not offer that trailer with double axles the net capacity would again be a guess. For a suspension failure to occur as a result of excess weight the overload would have to substantially more than just the fuel load. Is it possible the failure was a result of a suspension defect or pothole?
__________________
Ed Panzella
"BAITS MOTEL"
2450 MAYCRAFT PILOTHOUSE
Higganum, Ct
Just out of curiousity, what is the year make and model of your boat, and the year make and model of the trailer?
I am currently in the process of getting a new trailer for my boat, and wondered about the load capacity specs for your model??
Tommy
Check this out. The boat is a Carolina Skiff DLV 218, with a 115 Yammy 4 stroke. The trailer is a Magic Tilt ALSK 2028 CS 218 DLV. I am not kidding, that is on the data plate, as well as the certificate of origin. Anyway, the axle is rated to 3520 lbs, so I went to a 4 leaf spring and it seems to have worked out. I didn't consider this earlier, but I did hit a pothole a couple of days prior to the suspension failure. All's well that ends well.
__________________
Joe Nelson
Stapleton AL
Last edited by gi joe; 06-30-2009 at 07:59 PM.
Reason: misspell
Check this out. The boat is a Carolina Skiff DLV 218, with a 115 Yammy 4 stroke. The trailer is a Magic Tilt ALSK 2028 CS 218 DLV. I am not kidding, that is on the data plate, as well as the certificate of origin. Anyway, the axle is rated to 3520 lbs, so I went to a 4 leaf spring and it seems to have worked out. I didn't consider this earlier, but I did hit a pothole a couple of days prior to the suspension failure. All's well that ends well.
The trailer will have a capacity plate on the frame near the tongue. This will list the load capacity (boat) and GVWR (trailer and boat). Go to a public scale and have the loaded trailer weighed. Compare this weight to the capacity plate to see if it's overloaded.
ALSK2028N 18-20' 2800 93" 24' ST205 /
75D 14C 75"
ALSK2028 18-20' 2800 102" 24' ST205 /
75D 14C 84"
According to the Magic Tilt website the load capacity rating for the 2028 is 2800 lbs...
This seems a little too close to what you are carrying....
Skiff 1773 lbs Motor 402 lbs = 2175 2800 - 2175 = 625 How much fuel, ice, tackle, etc on boat now, Those numbers are wayyyyyyy too close together. Perhaps you may consider selling and or trading to a higher capacity trailer. It may not cause problems today, or tomorrow, but eventually it will become a problem child....Hitting potholes place an additional stress on trailers, and if it is too close to tolerance levels, it may fail again....
Just my 2 cents. Not to be taken seriously...
There is one and only one way to know how much a boat weighs and that is to weigh it. That's right, weigh it!
"Published weights" can be off. The "published weight" of my Glastron was off by more than 1,000 lb! How do I know - I weighed it. And yes, the published weight was with the same engine I had and I deducted fuel, water, junk, and the two additional batteries I installed.
If one is not willing to get the boat weighed, there's little point in comparing axle capacities, spring capacities, or anything else. Just tow it until the trailer falls apart and wonder why. Or blame the manufacturer or dealer.
Single to tandem axle?
All intel is appreciated. Thanks.
Well, I just returned from an attempt at fishing, and the trailer seems to have held up. It is about 60 miles one way from my house to Dauphin Island. There and back with no problems. I did have to get new u bolts for the 4 leaf springs. Not successful with the fishing, as the water was a little too choppy for my bride's comfort. I am pleased thus far with the trailer.
Trailer Qustion
