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I bought a used EZ Loader trailer and the surge brake system is in bad shape. The brake lines are totally rusted and will need to be replaced, not sure at this point what else needs to be fixed.
Has anyone rebuilt a surge brake system? Any suggestions on where I start, how I know that needs to be replaced, etc?
A local repair shop simply told me it's to costly to rebuild the surge brake system and if I don't really need it, forget about it. It can't be that bad, can it?
Russ, if you're having to re-do the whole system, are you looking at converting to electric/hydraulic at all? That's supposed to be the best braking and it would be neat to know whether it can be done by a DIYer.
__________________ Rick
Alabama's Gulf Coast
Chaparral 240 Signature (Sold)
Everything you need is readily available, and if this a multi-axle trailer it would be a good time to upgrade to electric over hydraulic and disks too.
Brake lines come in standard lengths. Hard or flexible lines need to be coiled to shorten any that are too long. You don't want to cut them, so plan your routing in advance before you order the lines so you'll minimize excess.
If your actuator is shot it's probably easier, and cheaper, to just replace it, although you should be able to get whatever parts you might need.
You'll obviously need to check to make sure the system is leak free once your done, but don't expect this to be a big problem. If you inspect the line ends and fittings prior to assembly and don't see any damage it's likely that everything will go together without leaks. Leaks are usually repaired by tightening the fitting some, but don't overdo it to start with.
It's much easier to check for leaks, and to bleed brakes, with an E/H actuator.
I would strongly recommend E/H if the trailer is for a 30 foot boat. You'll be amazed at the improvement in braking performance with a current brake controller. I use a Prodigy.
I upgraded my last trailer from surge drums on three axles to E/H disks (on all three axles). This was the biggest improvement to my boating experience I have ever made.
Lots of good information here: http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html
There are some brands that Champion doesn't carry. Between them and Eastern Marine (http://www.easternmarine.com/) you should be able to find everything you need.
Bill
Whatever you do, DON'T buy Tie-Down brakes...Mickey Mouse if ever existed...I'm not bashin'...I'm just tellin' the truth...go with Dico actuator and Kodiak brakes...if you can float the boat while redoing the brakes, it'll be a MUCH easier job w/out the boat on the trailer...pretty straightforward demo and install and well worth it...
Location: St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands / Sammamish, WA
Posts: 532
I suggest your price parts at www.etrailer.com
I've used them for a variety of parts over the past couple of years and their prices and customer service are very hard to match.
The trailer is a tandem axle trailer. All of my previous trailers had electric brakes which I really liked, I've never owned a trailer with surge brakes. It's hard to tell what is working and what isn't working on the trailer until I start to dig into it.
Thanks for the tip on not buying Tie-Down brakes.
I'm looking to get the brakes working without investing much money. The trailer is a 70's era trailer and is in good condition except for the brakes and all of the hardware. The u-bolts, screws, nuts, etc are all rusted and will never be able to be removed without cutting them off. The nuts on the u-bolts have actually become part of the u-bolts in one rusted mass. The rest of the trailer is galvanized and in very good condition.
I'm a little confused on how the coupler works, there is a lever coming out of the top that has a bungee cord holding it down. Not sure what this lever is even for unless it is locking out the coupler from moving forward and back since there is no brake pressure.
Because of the cost and because I only use the trailer 3-4 times a season I am not going to invest in electric/hydraulic brakes, nor changing to disc brakes. My goal is to just get the brakes working again.
Russ,
It's awfully easy for me to spend someone else's money.
I wouldn't suggest this for saltwater use, but if you only use the trailer in fresh water, and only a few times a year, you might want to consider going with electric drums. They now make some that are reputed to be waterproof. You may be able to turn the drums you have and replace the brake backing plate & shoe assemblies, disable the surge brake actuator, and end up with electric brakes that you're more familiar with.
This seems like it might be the cheapest and easiest way out; I can't attest to the reliability of the "waterproof" electric drums, though.
Bill
just replaced my tie down calipers aftyer 6yrs of saltwater use and no annual maintence . stainlees steel rotors look the same as the 1st day they went on. buy the stainless steel not the vented rotors and you will be fine. be careful though eezloader uses different axle seals than standard setups. all the top trailer supplies will include them with your brake setups.
Hammer- I had not thought about just changing them to electric, I have the electric actuator in my Denali already and I've always liked electric brakes. Good suggestion I'm going to look into that.
Rdollie- I checked out etrailers website, looks like I will be buying stuff from them. Thanks for the lead.
Hatterasman- I don't know the condition of the drums yet. If I have to replace them I probably won't go stainless. The trailer is in freshwater only and I only use it to put the boat in the water in the spring, pull it out in the fall, and if I have to do any maintenance on it I may have to pull it out a couple of times a season. On the cheap is my mission.
My surge brakes are shot too. Though, the boat is only 18', and I don't really feel like I need them most times. However, I worry about that freak situation where the unexpected happens on a downhill slope around a blind corner or something like that. That extra bit of braking might be the difference between a close call and catastrophe.
My boat is going to spend the summer in a slip, so I'll have plenty of time to do this, as well as a bunch of other work on the trailer I've been puting off.
One question worth posing is; what are the legal requirements for brakes in various states? I know once I found a website that had all the details listed out for each state, but I don't remember where. Does anyone know of such a resource?
The lever at the top of the coupler is the emergency brake actuator if the hitch/coupler happens to come apart. There should be a steel cable from a hole at the end of the lever that hooks into the safety chain loop on the hitch. Theory is, if the trailer comes loose, the cable pulls the lever forward - This presses on the master cylinder and applies the trailer brakes.
Woody-thanks for the explanation, that makes perfect sense to me. There is no cable but I think the bungee cord serves the same purpose as the cable would.
I don't think a bungee will pass muster if you get checked. A trailer my size must have a state inspection in VA and (I'll bet) only a steel cable would pass. Mine has a spring loaded-closed clip hook for the hitch hookup. A little 3/32?+- galv cable, clip, and swages from Lowes, Home Depot, etc would do the trick for little cost. Safer too.
Rebuilding surge brake system. 
