where are my trailer springs -EDIT- Trailer brake repair advice - The Hull Truth

cjd · 06-13-2009, 06:00 AM

I am not afraid to look like an idiot here.

i just got a new "used" trailer. double axle with hydraulic brakes. The axles are not straight across (like I am used to) they have a big U in them, and there are NO SPRINGS.

Can someone give me a quick primer on double axle trailers?

BTW is WAY better then my old single axles.

Thanks

chris

bamaboy473 · 06-13-2009, 06:09 AM

Welcome to the future, cjd. What you have is a trailer with torsion axles. You can google that for a technical explanation, but suffice it say that these are a better mousetrap.
Most quality trailers are using torsions because...they don't rust to pieces.

rwidman · 06-13-2009, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

Welcome to the future, cjd. What you have is a trailer with torsion axles. You can google that for a technical explanation, but suffice it say that these are a better mousetrap.
Most quality trailers are using torsions because...they don't rust to pieces.

Yes, they are torsion axles. The "springs" are actually rubber and they are inside the axle tube.

And I agree, they are far better than traditional axles with leaf springs. In addition to not rusting, they allow the trailer (and boat) to sit lower and they don't squeak like rusty leaf springs.

BTW: This has nothing to do with it being a double axle trailer.

Bigger Hammer · 06-13-2009, 07:23 AM

Google "torsion axle" and you'll find pages and pages of info. The only precaution I would advise is that towing the trailer level is even more important with multiple torsion axles than with multiple leaf spring axles. Leaf spring designs have some load equalization ability designed in, torsion designs don't.
Bill

epanzella · 06-13-2009, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

Welcome to the future, cjd. What you have is a trailer with torsion axles. You can google that for a technical explanation, but suffice it say that these are a better mousetrap.
Most quality trailers are using torsions because...they don't rust to pieces.

You mean they won't do this?
I think manufacturers are using them because they can be installed by a chimp with a limp.

bamaboy473 · 06-13-2009, 02:20 PM

That's ugly. Can you share the history behind that jewel?

epanzella · 06-13-2009, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

That's ugly. Can you share the history behind that jewel?

I got it off this forum a few months ago. I'm fuzzy on the details but I don't think the trailer was that old. It creeped me out so much I just had to save it. Do a search on torsion axles and you should find it. I wasn't trying to badmouth torsion setups but just pointing out that saltwater won't take no for an answer. If you don't keep up with hosing the salt off and spraying oil on parts that rub eventually you'll be towing red dust.

bamaboy473 · 06-13-2009, 02:58 PM

You're right that rust is going to happen, but that's some nasty stuff...maybe the trailer never got rinsed off? We know that springs would have rusted even worse and probably faster, but like the spring guys say, its a whole lot cheaper to replace springs than to replace a torsion axle.

Sorry for your pain! Somebody like kerno should create an easy to install trailer axle rinsing kit; take orders for a group purchase, and then have a bunch built for those of us that want our trailers to last and don't always have access to rinsing water...

epanzella · 06-13-2009, 04:23 PM

If I have time on the way home from the salt I stop at a freshwater ramp on the Ct River and just back the trailer in for a minute or two. Easier and more thorough than a hose. People are always yelling "hey, your straps are still on!" My leaf springs have very little rust after 6 seasons (including 2009). I also spray them with oil now and then because it gets between the leaves where paint will never stay.

kerno · 06-13-2009, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

Sorry for your pain! Somebody like kerno should create an easy to install trailer axle rinsing kit; take orders for a group purchase, and then have a bunch built for those of us that want our trailers to last and don't always have access to rinsing water...

You have no idea how much I have worked on that! The biggest problem is that you need to have water sprayed on both the top and the bottom. inside and outside of everything and spraying the bottom means lines have to hang down under the trailer.

About the picture of the rust bucket: When I got my current trailer, I noticed that two of the axles had spots where the torsion bars were welded on that had holes deep enough that they did not galvanizze properly. I covered the holes with a spot of 5200 and it seems to be staying in place. Galvanize is good at slowing rust, but once it starts, it does not sleep. I probably spend more time rinsing the trailer than I do rinsing the boat.

epanzella · 06-14-2009, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerno

You have no idea how much I have worked on that! The biggest problem is that you need to have water sprayed on both the top and the bottom. inside and outside of everything and spraying the bottom means lines have to hang down under the trailer.

About the picture of the rust bucket: When I got my current trailer, I noticed that two of the axles had spots where the torsion bars were welded on that had holes deep enough that they did not galvanizze properly. I covered the holes with a spot of 5200 and it seems to be staying in place. Galvanize is good at slowing rust, but once it starts, it does not sleep. I probably spend more time rinsing the trailer than I do rinsing the boat.

Some manufacturers need to pay more attention to detail like that. What scares me is when I see a weld on a galvanized box frame. Did the heat peel the coating on the inside of the frame or was it gavanized later??? Once the rust is under the galvanized coating it's like a malignant tumor. The rust advances faster than the coating peels off so the part that's currently rusting is under the galvanizing and it's difficult to rinse the salt out. Good move sealing the breech with 5200 - rust is iron oxide so, no air = no rust.

The Classic · 06-14-2009, 08:56 PM

Is there anything you can do to slow leaf spring rust? I seem to go through them every 3 years, even with faithful rinsing.

rwidman · 06-15-2009, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

............... Somebody like kerno should create an easy to install trailer axle rinsing kit; take orders for a group purchase, and then have a bunch built for those of us that want our trailers to last and don't always have access to rinsing water...

I had a "trailer axle rinsing kit". She's out of the house right now but she'll be back shortly.

I don't think we can do a group purchase though.

BTW: I said "had" because I no longer have a trailer, not because I no longer have the rinser.

rwidman · 06-15-2009, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Classic

Is there anything you can do to slow leaf spring rust? I seem to go through them every 3 years, even with faithful rinsing.

Spring steel will rust when exposed to fresh water also, just not as fast as with salt water.

People have tried WD40, oil, grease, etc. It pretty much washes off the first time you launch the boat. Paint won't work because the springs flex.

There is or was a company making fiberglass leaf springs but I've never heard of them being used on boat trailers. I think the idea was to reduce weight in race cars.

DFreedom · 06-15-2009, 09:41 AM

I recently "rebuilt" my aluminum I-beam trailer, new springs, bunks, bunk supports, hubs, bearings, etc.. I do not know how much it will help (if at all) but I sprayed my new springs with rubber undercoating before I installed them. It puts a protective coating on them and because it is rubber will flex with the springs. Cost $6.00. I also dunk my boat/trailer at the nearest freshwater landing I can find because a hose is never going to get into all the nooks and crannies. Hopefully things will last a little longer that way.

bamaboy473 · 06-15-2009, 10:44 AM

I hope it helps your springs, too, DFreedom. In theory, only, there could be a flaw in the plan because if any tiny gap opens up in the undercoating, then salt water will get in and rinsing it out will be virtually impossible anymore.

But they'll look better for awhile, so there's that!

beers19 · 06-15-2009, 10:45 AM

i've heard of using "open gear lube" on the springs to help slow the rust process. i recently purchased some spray can open gear lube. if i can remember i'll let you know how it goes.

1stGrady · 06-15-2009, 01:38 PM

How about the CRC corrosion guard protective spray? It is like a waxy coating that can be sprayed onto OB motors, electrical connections, lug nuts and studs. It does not easily wash off and would probably only need to be reapplied 2-3 times per season. I use it on all of the above but have torsion axles.

bluewaterpirate · 06-15-2009, 02:01 PM

I sprayed both torsion axle arms, castle nuts/washers/cotter pins, disc brake mounts/nuts and bolts, and u-bolts assmblies with CRC. I used Tie Down Vented E-Coated disc brakes. The CRC works as you can see.

Here's what they look like 14 months later after 37 trips to the ramp (74 total submersions in saltwater).

epanzella · 06-15-2009, 04:37 PM

I use diesel oil because I always have some around but kerosene works well too, I hear. It seems to hang around and work it's way in between the leaves. When I notice the springs looking dry I do it again. My roller trailer doesn't get dunked as deep as the bunk trailers do so that helps as well.