4WD truck advice - The Hull Truth

raymonds · 04-18-2009, 01:33 PM

Looking for advice on older, 4WD trucks. Need one just to get boat out of the water. I have a HD ¾ ton 1994 Chevy, positraction rear, but on gravel where I usually put in and pull out it doesn’t want to pull out. Not particular about brand name, but would like extended cab and probably automatic. Size engine isn’t critical. . Short haul to ramp, most of the time only 5 miles one way. Max likely would be 25 miles one way. Boat is 2550 Hydra-Spots WA with twin 200 johnsons being hauled on triple axle trailer so I have a load to drag out of the water.

I am trying to do the best value at $4000. From looking at Craigs list I guess I am in the early to mid 90s models. High mileage in itself isn’t a deal breaker. Are there some 4WD system I should avoid- such as push button versus lever to engage? How about transmissions, engines, etc. Were some years lemons on some trucks? Thanks for the help.

gradyguy2956 · 04-18-2009, 05:36 PM

I have two 4wd trucks that I use to pull and launch my '87 241 offshore.

One is a '89 V1500 Suburban with 4wd and mechanical floor shift for the transfer case. It also has the straight front axle. Even with the 350 V8, I can barely keep up speed on a long hill. But at the ramp, especially a gravel one, shifting into 4LOW sure makes the drop-in and pull out alot more controlled.

The other truck is a '98 F-150 with the 5.4 V8 electric shift transfer case and independent front axles. Shifting of the transfer case is effortless, just wait until you can feel the front end "clunk" into the drive line. This truck is shorter than the Suburban and has a tendency to "hop" during the unload. I have a Loadrite roller trailer that does NOT get dunked and relies on gravity and the winch brake to unload the boat.

If you are looking for a used 4WD with independent front axle, make sure you get under the truck and throughly inspect all of the CV boots to make sure that they are intact, and that there is no fluid or leaks from these areas. Do the same for the transfer case and all of the driveline. Take a flashlight and look in every nook and cranny of the frame for any signs that the truck may have been used for 4wheeling.(and possible abuse)

Test drive the truck in both 2WD and 4WD. If it shifts hard into 4HIGH, there could be a possible problem in the transfer case. All Should shift hard into 4LOW. (unsyncronized)

I have had no troubles with either of these trucks used as tow vehicles, but I do kinda prefer the Suburban, just because of its size. It is longer than the F-150. I am like you, I am only going at the most 50 miles a year down the road.

raymonds · 04-18-2009, 05:50 PM

Gradyguy2956. Thanks for the advice. Since I have never had a 4WD truck that is the kind of information I can use. As a matter of interest I am going to look at a 1998 F250 tomorrow. Plain Jane truck, standard cab, used by city of LaGrange Ga. I'll take my flashlight with me.

gradyguy2956 · 04-18-2009, 06:27 PM

Good luck tomorrow. Don't be surprised if the truck is beat to death.

BlueWaterRunner · 04-19-2009, 05:50 AM

Install air lockers in the front and rear axles of whatever you buy and your traction issues will be solved. Don' have the front wheels locked when you turn though.

raymonds · 04-19-2009, 10:22 AM

Looked at the 1998 F250 work truck. Shift lever for 4WD system, not electric. Shifted a little hard into the 4WD and than couldn't get it to shift back to 2H. It appears to be as represented, a work truck from the city of Lagrange Ga. Probably not used much in 4WD. Even though $3500 is below most 98 fords in price it is a work truck. Seller said he would put it in the shop tomorrow and get transfer case checked out. I am going to keep looking.