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I'v been looking for a used truck to tow my boat which I have figured weighs at most 7,000 pounds. I'm looking at Suburban's with around 50,000 or less miles and some have tow hitches and some don't. My question is if they do not have a two package is there anything I need to make sure they have to determine if they can tow my boat? I thinking things like trans. cooler type stuff or do Suburban's come standard with enough to tow a 7,000 pound boat?
If it doesn't come with one you really do want add a trans cooler and a locking rear diff or a limited slip (I prefer the locker). Another thing to look at is rear end gear ratios the tow packages generally come with 3.73 or 4.10 ratios which are better for towing but worse on economy some of the none tow package vehicles may come with a 3.42 which will make the truck struggle to get up to speed while towing.
Get a 2500 if you can find one.They're beefed up. Mine has the 8.1 and 4.10 factory gears and locking rear diff. It will pull a house down. Had some problems w/ the 8.1 early on, but no problems in the last 50k miles. I pull a 25 SeaVee with no problems
Thanks that the kind of info I'm looking for. In the past my 20' boat the tow Veh was not really an issue but now it is and that a whole new learning curve.
2000 through 2006 are pretty much the same - and looking at the Trailer Boats Mag ratings for 2006, you get a minimum of 7200 with a 1500 4WD with a 3.42 rear axle. It does mention any need for any optional equipment, so it should be rated for that load.
The minimum rating is 7000 for a 1500 4WD with a 3.42 rear axle.
I have a 2002 and it is a very capable tow vehicle, but I do also have the tow package. If it were me, even if the vehicle was rated for 7-8k without the transmission cooler, I would add one. Especially if I was towing right at the max. I bought mine new, and I don't recall the tow package being a pricey option, so I don't think it has anything more than the transmission cooler and the hitch.
Hope this helps.
__________________ There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats
My 2005 1500 4WD has the 4.10 - 18 mpg no tow at 75mph. I like it much better than the 3.73 rear end I had on my 1997. No problem safely pulling 7000 lb. I have positrac and level ride both good to haves. Most/all 2003 on 4WD Suburbans come with a very good tow package.
A couple notes on 1500 vs. 2500 - and I think this applies model years 2000 through current:
The 2500 is much better at towing, with tow ratings up to 12k (you could the the 8.1 in the 2500)
The 1500 has a coil rear suspension and the 2500 goes to leaf springs; They ride completely differently. The 2500 feels much more like a truck as compared to the smoother ride of the 1500.
2500s are not nearly as plentiful as 1500s, finding a good deal on a used one I think would be a bit harder. I think this is especially true in the new body style (2007+). I have not looked myself though maybe they are out there.
I personally think the ideal tow rig would be a 2500 with Quadrasteer (same turning radius as a Honda Civic). A Duramax in the Suburban would also be pretty sweet.
For all around duty though, towing and non, I think the 1500 is tough to beat.
__________________ There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats
I've had several suburbans over the years and towed a few boats...First was a 94 K2500 that would tow anything...It rode OK but was a little harsh without a load...Next was 2000 or so 1500 that was a dog...
Currently I have a 2004 1500 that rides great and tows OK...Was towing about 6500 lbs without any problem, Do not just look at the HP and towing capacity, but if you are serious, you need to test drive it with your boat/trailer at highway speeds...
My current boat/trailer is about 9800# and i tow it with a dually Duramax Crew Cab...
FWIW, I would not tow anything 7000# with nothing less than a 2500, unless you are making a 10 mile trip under 50 mph
Thanks guys for the info as this tow rating stuff is new to me now that I have a bigger boat. My towing is like like this most tows 3 miles to ramp, several trips a year 25 miles, I also will be towing the boat 70 miles 4 or 5 times a year. So as you can see most of my towing is very local but those ramps are not the best but very close. Could anyone tell me where to look on the veh. for the tow rating and gear ratio? I have talked to several people who have no clue what it is rated for or the gear ratio as they are probably soccer mom SUV's and some are 4x4 and some are not. It seems like the 4x4's would have the tow rating I need and probably allready have a trans cooler.
You need to look at the RPO codes to find out what options it has like rear end ratio.
GQ1 -- AXLE REAR, STD RATIO
GT4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO
GT5 -- AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO
GU4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GU5 -- AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 -- AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
There is a specific RPO code for every option the truck has. For example if the truck has G80 among the RPO codes in the glove box it means the truck is equipped with the eaton locking rear differential. As far as the tow rating it may be stamped some where but I don't know where maybe some one can chime in on that.
Frank is giving you good information about the RPO codes, just because the Suburban doesn't have a hitch doesn't mean it doesn't have the tow package. A 3/4 diesel is a great tow vehicle and will get better mileage both towing and not. The 1/2 tons tow well too, I would make sure it had the tow package. You might also want to beefup the rear shocks.
We tow our 24' Albemarle, probably a hair over 7,000 lbs, with a 2001 1500 Suburban 4x4. The truck has the tow package as well as the Autoride leveling suspension, which i love. Tows pretty well from 60-65 mph and flat and slightly hilly terrain. Bigger hills you definitely feel it. Never, ever felt i had trouble stopping, trailer has disk breaks. Both with and without the trailer the Sub rides like a sofa, very comfortable. Non towing we get 18-19 mpg at 70-75.
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1998 Albemarle 247
Fairfax, Virginia