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Old 03-22-2009, 10:32 AM
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Default diesel fuel treatment long post

I am posting this info about diesel fuel for your information only.
I am ASE Master Tech in both Auto and Medium/Heavy truck. I have been invited to attent many clases on different subjects. Many of diesel truck owner has learned a lot more about oil and fuel then they care to know. The failure on the EGR systems the loss of a couple of injectors can be controled by adding cetane boost to the fuel. The fuel burns better and has less soot. We have been taught the reason why we must do the oil and fuel filter changes at not just mileage but also based off hrs of run time. aech hr of idle is about 30 miles of driving. some say 25 some say 33 but all agree you can use 30 miles as a base for needed maintence.
If you have a diesel and want it to last here is what the engineers for International (ford) and Isuzu ( GM duramax) Cummins (dodge) have taught us about the fuel problems.
We all agree clean fuel is need but no one explains all the whys to us. The newer the engine the more problems you will have. The flow and pressure on the injectors is very important. A clean fuel filter is needed about every other oil change or at least every 10 to 12000 miles, Water drained from the fuel filter at each oil change is a must. On the tips of the newer injectors is a cushion of fuel that keeps the tip of the injector from beating against the end. This beating of the tip is the main reason injectors fail. I know I have replaced many of dirty fuel filter and on these same trucks more often then not I replaced 2 or 3 injectors. A fuel pump failure and I do not mean it quit but just dropped a few PSI of pressure and some loss of flow has caused many of injectors to fail. This type of loss on the electric fuel pump on a cummins can kill the injector pump as well as injectors. The dirty fuel filters will kill a fuel pump. manual or electric. I sat in a class a few weeks ago where a large city that spec's their fuel to be at 47 cetane has less then 5% injector failure on the Ford 6.0 diesel engines and less then 2% EGR failure. Most injector failures were at high mileage with many idle hrs. another company had 6.0 and 6.4 power units that ran 16 hrs a day never switched off unless during service and they had very close to same results after they started using hrs to service by. They had trucks with 3000 miles on them that were 2 yrs old but they had 8000 plus hrs on them. This alone got my attention. They change the oil based on hrs and mileage. they change the fuel filter every other oil change. 3000 miles or for each hr they multiply by 30 miles. Now here is what really got me. Most all the diesel fuel is based on a national average of 38 cetain. only a few stated regulate the cetane and Fl is not on that list. cetane is like octane in gas just it is what is need for combustion in diesel. How do you get higher cetane? buy a cetane boost and add to each tank of fuel. I have done this with several customers and my own trucks. ( wreckers and pickups ) Everyone has seen better power, starts better and idles a lot smother at first start in the am as well as 1 to 2 miles to the gallon better mileage. I am still getting data together to see what it really does. my older brother drives for mileage and he logs each gallon as well as what each tank gets and has seen the biggest increase so far. He lives out west and I ship him what he needs. Like I stated before this is information you can use or not but I think it is worth looking into. Understanding that the fuel pressure and fuel flow must be maintained at all times as well as increaseing the cetane by 10 points. This will make a difference you can see when you fill up and also save on them $3600.00 injector repalcement bills. There are several fuel treatments out there just make sure it has CETANE BOOST in the description. And keep the filter changed. On the Ford there is an allen headed bolt on the filter under the truck that will drain not only the water but aslo the fuel from both the upper and lower filter so you don't take a bath in fuel when you change your own filters. Dodge and GM have a drain on the filter housing and on the 7.3 I recommend you use a baby air passage clean out squeeze bulb and suck out the dirty fuel and make sure no water is in the housing. Saves the o ring leak on the drain valve on the 7.3. Another reminder is always remove the oil filter before you install the drain plug so the oil that is held in some of the oil filter bowls will drain out into the pan and out the drain hole. Adding fresh oil with a qt of dirty oil is not good. If you can check the fuel pressure and flow to make sure it is correct. Get a copy of your trucks service manual if you want to do the work yourself. These new diesels are high performance engines. They require a lot more attention to deatil then the old ones. I hope this will help some of you that own a diesel.
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:42 PM
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Thanks for the info. My truck is an 04.5 CTD. I use Lucas injector treatment for lubrication of the lift pump. Can you recommend a cetane boost that also lubes the pump?
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:26 PM
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This might answer some questions . I stold it from cumminsforum.com .

uote: Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man
Just for information value...

Any HFRR value GREATER THAN 520 HFRR is a FAILING grade for lubricity...
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:31 PM
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Yup!

Been doing that on my '04 6.0 since the first year.

Nother thing: I found one unbranded diesel fuel station that had low prices but the worst fuel. I went three fill ups without the cetane boost. The last fill from this station the truck ran really bad. Went to the parts store, got the boost additive and issue went away within ten miles.

Power Service silver bottle now in every tank of fuel no mater where bought. Also, I no longer buy fuel from that station.
I found an Exxon station with reasonable prices (Can you believe THAT!!!). Their diesel pump is labeled that is is not an EXXON product, but has a sticker that says 47 cetane minimum. That's where I get most of my fuel now.

Also all my service is done on a 5000 mile schedule whether I tow much or not. Every filter that goes in motorcraft brand. And the only oil for me is Chevrion Delo 400 with oil analysis each time.

Believe it or not, my selling Ford dealer used Wolfs Head bulk oil service and that's what they put in it on my first complementary oil change at 1000 miles. (I was SHOCKED, but at least he was honest.) I took that oil out at another 1000 and settled on doing all my service myself.

I'm with you! There a lot of junk floating around out there and if you've plunked down seven grand on an optional diesel engine, it's a good idea to get some control of what goes through it.

Same for my outboards...but then again they are 20 grand apiece. In the case of them, I don't mind paying a dime more a gallon for fuel that says NO ETHANOL on the pump!

Just my $.02.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:17 PM
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Ford has one that is call Cetane Boost as well as Power Sevice. I am sure there are other. Statadyne (sp) I thinjk has one too. Like I stated before make sure the filters get changed. There is just too much junk in our fuel. Another note is on the antifreeze you use. I have seen the Ford Gold mix with the Multi coolants and it will sludge for some reason. On a Ford 6.0 the coolant must go through the oil cooler at 75 GPM and the 6.4 is like 120 GPM. That is a lot of coolant flow so make sure you take care of the coolant. Get the FLeetgard test strips and have the coolant tested and add the proper treatment to it. Very very bad things happen when the coolant goes south.
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Old 03-22-2009, 10:07 PM
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What about using full synthetic oil. What do you think the oil change intervals should be?
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:10 AM
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They all (gm,ford, cummins etc) say to change oil at the same interval. I use Amsoil and use the extended run oil filters and do an oil sample at 8000 and change between 12 and 15000. I know the ULSD is harder on the oil and must be changed more often. I once ran 22000 with a sample every 5000 just to see what would happen. I have had the valve cover off the left side of my 2001 Duramax and it looked fine. I don't recommend you put over 15000 miles between changes. The hydraulic compression of the oil may be an issue over 15000 miles. I am waiting on Amsoil to answer that question. Remember it gets the crap squeezed out of it and used like hydraulic oil to open and close the injectors. On a Ford 6.0 and 6.4 there is a spool valve inside the injector that if you have a cold injector out of the engine and you touch the spool valve with your fingers for 30 seconds the spool valve will hang up due to expansion. That is a close tolarance valve. Clean oil is a must. I see you have a Ford 6.0 and due to that I would recommend you change every 10 to 12,000 miles if you run a quality synthetic oil. I Like Amsoil and would recommend the EA088 oil filter. A true synthetic flows better when cold and heat does not break it down like regular oil. Just my personal thoughts based on test that I have done. I know there are other oils to use but this oil I have tested myself in my own vehicles.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:38 AM
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fldmax, I use a synthetic named Conklin, both the oil and as an additive. Have you ever heard of this brand and what are your thoughts if you have?
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Old 03-23-2009, 03:25 PM
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According to the chart above, the Opti-Lube is the best bang for the buck? Am I reading that right? And what is "Opti-Lube".

I have a 6.0 and it runs perfect, no issues but it is an '05 and I only have 44K miles.

Since we are on this subject and using my truck as an example, how bad is it for the truck to sit unused for extended periods of time?
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:51 PM
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Jag, Clean oil and clean fuel can sit ok. I know of a couple units that only run 30 minutes a month to exercise them and then when they are needed away they go. No issues but we have amsoil marine grade 15w40 diesel oil in them, treat fuel with a biocide too. Jal for the type of oil you use I have never heard of it I will be checking it out.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:08 PM
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well I google Conklin Oil and I find all types of pros and cons. Amway comes up as a parent company in the past. That sends flags up for me. I know it is not all bad. It might be an ok oil but I would have to look deeper into it before I would judge it. If you like it and it works under the conditions you use it in it can't be that bad. Remember it has to be better then regular oil.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:45 PM
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Wow, I'm trying to follow along here...

So the point is I need some kind of additive to increase lubricity? And for what?

I've never run an additive in 86000 miles, I know folks that have never run an additive with 500K miles; we all drive Dodge CTD's.
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Old 03-23-2009, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davepen View Post
Wow, I'm trying to follow along here...

So the point is I need some kind of additive to increase lubricity? And for what?

I've never run an additive in 86000 miles, I know folks that have never run an additive with 500K miles; we all drive Dodge CTD's.

did you run all those miles on ULSD?
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:09 AM
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This is Ford's take on this topic. I am going to a meeting with Ford today that educates dealers on how fuel quality and maintenance plays a part in making a Powerstroke Diesel perform and last. Fuel quality is a big part of that. Keep in mind that this is a Ford video and is biased to their brand which I sell however I will not link my webpage so as not to spam this board. Watch this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caPWc3wgTyc

BTW, I have tried this in my non-EGR equipped 7.3. It does quiet injectors and and also produces slightly better fuel millage due to the more efficient burn.
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:37 AM
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the new diesel engines are like high performance engines and must be treated that way. the old days of the diesel are gone. the old 6.2 and 6.9 that would run on anything have been changed to the 6.6, 6.4 and 6.7 that require a lot of upkeep. ULSD has caused a lot of new issues that will make you do the maintence or go broke doing repairs.
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:44 AM
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the new diesel engines are like high performance engines and must be treated that way. the old days of the diesel are gone. the old 6.2 and 6.9 that would run on anything have been changed to the 6.6, 6.4 and 6.7 that require a lot of upkeep. ULSD has caused a lot of new issues that will make you do the maintence or go broke doing repairs.
So the bottom line is what? Use what in the oil to increase what by how much, and use what in the fuel to increase what by how much? Kinda looking for the short answer. Seems like there are many different approaches to the subject of good maintenance even in light of ULSD.

Also, does anyone have a maintenance list or source for a booklet or article for a Duramax with miles, quantities and recommended parts for filters etc? I have the 06 classic before the changes were made for ULSD in 07 model. Currently I use Delo oil and Fram Filters. I use Delo Oil and Volvo filters in my Volvo D4 300hp DPH in my boat.
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtol View Post
So the bottom line is what? Use what in the oil to increase what by how much, and use what in the fuel to increase what by how much? Kinda looking for the short answer. Seems like there are many different approaches to the subject of good maintenance even in light of ULSD.

Also, does anyone have a maintenance list or source for a booklet or article for a Duramax with miles, quantities and recommended parts for filters etc? I have the 06 classic before the changes were made for ULSD in 07 model. Currently I use Delo oil and Fram Filters. I use Delo Oil and Volvo filters in my Volvo D4 300hp DPH in my boat.
I have no GM background but I imagine that the owners manual has a schedule for maintenance most likely. I would change to using AC/Delco filters rather than using Fram. Fram does not have a very good track record especially on oil filters. You already got the right idea on the Volvo. I always use OE filters on everything I own.
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Old 03-27-2009, 03:20 PM
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The cummins chart above validates what I have been doing ever since I starting driving a diesel in 2005: use biodiesel. The cummins chart and other analysis that I have read indicates that there is nothing better than biodiesel as an additive. Biodiesel increases cetane; decreases emissions; lubricates better than anything else, and decreases engine noise. Biodiesel price is variable so the cost may be nothing when it is priced at the same cost as diesel fuel, or greater, depending. I have been running it continuously in concentrations of 2 to 20%. I buy and store BD100 and mix some in when I fill with with diesel, if can't find premixed. Just a little helps.
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Old 03-27-2009, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
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The cummins chart above validates what I have been doing ever since I starting driving a diesel in 2005: use biodiesel. The cummins chart and other analysis that I have read indicates that there is nothing better than biodiesel as an additive. Biodiesel increases cetane; decreases emissions; lubricates better than anything else, and decreases engine noise. Biodiesel price is variable so the cost may be nothing when it is priced at the same cost as diesel fuel, or greater, depending. I have been running it continuously in concentrations of 2 to 20%. I buy and store BD100 and mix some in when I fill with with diesel, if can't find premixed. Just a little helps.
Keep in mind , you can't run Bio in the new trucks that have Particulate traps and if someone starts running Bio in a motor older than the '07's ya better keep a couple extra fuel filters with ya in the truck [ if you never have run Bio through the motor] as the Bio breaks down all the crud in your fuel tank/lines and will clog your filter.

No big deal , just be prepared .
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Old 03-28-2009, 01:16 PM
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Wish I could buy bio around here
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