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I just bought a new boat with a tandem axle trailer. When I backed my trailer into the water to recover my boat the dang thing floated. I have not checked the air pressure in the tires, but they profiled normally. What do you think?
__________________ 2008 Pioneer Cape Island 18/Yamaha 115 2S
1999 Custom Craft 14/Mercury 25 2S
Plastic Navy: Hobie Revo 13, Heritage Redfish 10, Emotion Mojo 12, Field and Stream SOT 12
I have a tandem axle aluminum that does the same thing. I just had to figure out how far I could back it in before it starts to float and not go any deeper. Mine starts to float at the point where the front top of the fender starts to get wet. For me it's not a problem because I can get the boat on with that much water without a problem.
Drill some holes to allow air to escape and water to come into the framework or fenderwells maybe?... I've seen a thread on here before about this topic.
__________________ "no matter how beautiful a woman is, someone, somewhere is sick of her sh*t"
41 Hatteras - Hatt'ras Bound Sportfishing
O.U.P.V. Captain
determine how much weght is needed and fill 2 pieces of pvc pipe with concrete. had this problem with a 42 fountain and we used 3inch pipe and stapped it to the trailer at the back. been working for 3 yrs.
__________________ 1979 manatee cuddy
1983 24 aqua patio
agree with nauti-life I have 2 5 ft sticks of 3 PVC filled with sak crete on my trailer. i used heavy duty zip ties to strap it to the frame. that way if i have to get the weight off in a hurry, i can just cut the straps with a knife and unload them. it takes an 80 lb bag of sak crete per side. had them on there for 7 years, no problem.....
As you've noticed, the problem is that the weight of the trailer is less than the bouyancy of the four tires. You need to make the tail end of the trailer heavier. I've seen several trailers with the weights you'd normally see on a diver's weight belt screwed to the rear cross member of the trailer. Crude, but effective.
Drill some holes to allow air to escape and water to come into the framework or fenderwells maybe?... I've seen a thread on here before about this topic.
What is the problem with the trailer floating?? I had a 29 strike on a triple axle aluminum trailer and it floated. I thought it was the best thing I had ever used to put my boat on. As the boat came up to the trailer it self-centered and pushed the trailer down under the boat. I never had a problem putting the boat on it even with only 1 engine.
My 18' maverick master angler trailer does not float and it is much harder to load the boat on that one.
BTW I have about 1500 launchings and reloading cycles between all my boats and I would rather the trailer float than sink.
What is the problem with the trailer floating?? I had a 29 strike on a triple axle aluminum trailer and it floated. I thought it was the best thing I had ever used to put my boat on. As the boat came up to the trailer it self-centered and pushed the trailer down under the boat. I never had a problem putting the boat on it even with only 1 engine.
My 18' maverick master angler trailer does not float and it is much harder to load the boat on that one.
BTW I have about 1500 launchings and reloading cycles between all my boats and I would rather the trailer float than sink.
Not a problem unless there is a current or wind that wants to push your trailer sideways
__________________ USCG 100 TON MASTER
Pursuit 2870 CC
Palm Beach 161
1984 Mckee Craft 14'
Sunset on the ICW
Madeira Beach, Fl
Honeymoon Harbor
Bimini
"Many times life gives you the test, before you learn the lesson!"
What is the problem with the trailer floating?? I had a 29 strike on a triple axle aluminum trailer and it floated. I thought it was the best thing I had ever used to put my boat on. As the boat came up to the trailer it self-centered and pushed the trailer down under the boat. I never had a problem putting the boat on it even with only 1 engine.
My 18' maverick master angler trailer does not float and it is much harder to load the boat on that one.
BTW I have about 1500 launchings and reloading cycles between all my boats and I would rather the trailer float than sink.
After 20 years as a boat operator for the Coast Guard and owning quite a few boats of my own, I have a launch or two under my belt as well. I have never had a trailer float like this one does. I backed down just enough to launch the boat the other day. To the point I had to use quite a bit of throttle to get it off. I pulled the boat over to a finger pier so that I could go park my truck. Before I got out of my boat, my trailer had already drifted sideways at a 30 degree angle. When recovering the boat I don't have to back quite as deeply, so unless there is a nasty cross wind or current recovering is fairly simple.
__________________ 2008 Pioneer Cape Island 18/Yamaha 115 2S
1999 Custom Craft 14/Mercury 25 2S
Plastic Navy: Hobie Revo 13, Heritage Redfish 10, Emotion Mojo 12, Field and Stream SOT 12
I had a buddy that had the same problem, 'floating trailer'..
he went to a tractor place and had the tires filled with calcium.. problem solved.
it's been a couple years now and no problems, I thought the calcium would eat the rims but so far so good.. I still think he will have that issue in the long run.
I like the concrete in PVC idea.
generally the problem is the large cypress wood bunks...it is likely you have those...Replace them with aluminum and you should solve the problem...While I can understand adding more weight ( with something with a specific gravity greater than water) will work...why add even more weight to the trailer...? this means hauling and towing even more weight...!
Agree with cWICKBURG. Do you need to back in as far as you have been? Can you drill some holes in your fenders to eliminate any air there?
If these two very simple solutions don't help, then consider if there's any reasonable way to make the bunks smaller by removing some of the wood. The bunks may extend further forward than they need to, just don't compromise the support for the boat.
And if you're not worried about adding weight, you can do that too, or instead. The truth is that you probably won't add enough weight to significantly impact your towing capacity, it just seems counter-intuitive to me to add weight if you can solve the problem by removing buoyant material.
I wouldn't drill holes in the frame. It would allow water into those spaces which are not easily cleaned with fresh water which would later turn into corrosion. As someone who is in the process of rebuilding a corrosion riddled trailer, I don't want to go through it again!
May sound silly, but if you have guide posts on your trailer drill a small hole in the top of the cap. It could be air is getting trapped inside the PVC post and causing it to float.
My Trailer Floats 
ALERT-ALERT-ALERT 
