Vacuum Bleeding brakes and acutator? - The Hull Truth

DogTired · 10-07-2008, 04:47 PM

Been a while and can't remember:

Saw something a few years back that if you used a vacuum line bleeder at the axle that the acutator on the tounge needed to be either fully extended or partially depressed so fluid could get through from the reservoir on the master cylinder into the line.

Does anybody know the correct position for the acutator when vacuum bleeding the lines?

MacCTD · 10-07-2008, 07:28 PM

I did my truck about 6 months ago, I just checked the reservior frequently and added fluid to be sure it was not empty and sucking air, took about a gallon to fully flush the system. pulled it from each caliper one at a time, the sequence may vary depending on what type of vehicel it is, I did not press the pedal at all during the process.

ReelWork · 10-07-2008, 09:56 PM

Mac, you missed the point of the question as it relates to bleeding with an ACTUATOR and the position of it.

Dog, from my experience I personally prefer not to use vacuum bleeders. Instead, I have stayed with clear plastic tube/line into a bottle with a little fluid at the bottom to ensure the tube is submerged. This method takes a little more time (15-20 minutes), but it ensures the job is done right and you can see your progress.

Another option is to purchase an extra cap, drill a larger hole on the top, add a nozzle/adaptor and then used compressed air to pressurize the system. As any bleeding, be sure to not let the fluid get too low in the reservoir and don't use 100 PSI either. Just a 10-15 PSI will work.

So as not to go without answering your question, the tongue needs to be fully extended. Also, on any method start with the farthest wheel in the system and work your forward. By farthest away, you need to look at actual running length of the tubing - not physical distance.

Here's a how-to link from the Champion Website too.. http://www.championtrailers.com/tech...l#bleed_brakes

DogTired · 10-10-2008, 12:19 PM

ReelWork,

You anserd my question. Tonge or acttator fully extended out.

That's what I thought... and how I started out and Yes I drilled out the sealer that Tie Down puts on and stops up the drum brake bleed fittings. Problem is with a vacuum bleeder I still can't get the lines to bleed hard and eventually produce fluid like they should. I'm thinking the reverse soleniod is blocking my bleed. But I have tested it and it's getting energized. I even tried bleeding with the toung extended and the soloniod energized with the truck in reverse...no help.

The solenoid is pretty warm after a few minuites in reverse gear indicating to me.... that it is working.

MOST IMPORTANT, I'm not sucking down the fluid by vacuum bleeding in my reservior so I have to have an upstream restriction in the acutator or maybe in the reverse soleniod.

This one year old Road King Trailer is driving me nuts and I believe that Roadking never bled the the brakes to begin with. Nevermind the made in China tires, I'm talking with the NHTSA about the tire company ASAP

warthog5 · 10-10-2008, 12:30 PM

Quote:

took about a gallon to fully flush the system

Holy Crap! It only takes not quite a qt to do my stuff using this. But you have to have a air compressor. It's quick and easy and will work on trailer brakes VERY well.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924

DogTired · 10-11-2008, 04:31 PM

Apparently brake reverse solenoid is bad. Can't pressure or vacuum bleed either by following instructions from Titan, (the surge accutator maker).

We will see what Road King says as they are due here soon. The brakes never have worked apparently?