Disc brakes locking/Hub Heating Ques -AGAIN! - The Hull Truth

RocknReeln · 10-06-2008, 08:58 PM

I have a triple axle Loadmaster trailer and brakes on the front two axles, but not rear. Ok...I have read alot of different threads on here (Did alot of searches) and have somewhat educated myself, although I am a complete novice to this job. Yeah Cracker I know you hate tiedown's and its what I unfortunately have.

So, I need some help please and have an idiot's knowledge of things - so here I go: I had someone install new disc brakes,rotors, lines, and replaced the solenoida year ago - but not the master cylinder (hope I used the right terms). Everything was great til 6 mths ago on a long trip 300 miles, a buddy said damn the hubs are real hot to the touch. I said they are supposed to get somewhat hot, not too bad a problem then. I pumped some Penzoil - heat resistant grease into the bearings. Then, about two months ago, I noticed the hubs again got very hot and it seemed the pads would stick and lockup in reverese at times, then releaseand when I was going forward the tires would drag a bit, then release.I used electronic cleaner and cleaned the round five prong wiring, checked my truck's fuses, and all seemed good - but it keeps happening. So I pulled the tire off, the pads were stuck on andhad to hammer the caliper off. Seems that in backing up they locked on, maybe when they hit the chocks. Not sure of the condition of the pads, so I took some pics. I also, have no idea how to get to the master cylinder, should I wish to replace it or bleed the system later.I cleaned the rotor and the Hub moves freely - I don't think its the bearings inside, as the rotor/hubspins real good - no clicking/sticking. I think all four brakes are doing it. If I have to replace the pads - I saw the post by Bluewaterpirate - it helped but did not show how to replace just the pads. Here are some pics of the trailer:

Any help on how to / what to do would be great.

bluewaterpirate · 10-07-2008, 06:36 AM

The first thing I would do is check the backup solenoid. With the trailer attached to your truck and you standing by theactuator have someone sit in cab of your truckwith their foot on the brake& put the truck in reverse you should hear a clicking sound come from the solenoid. I have Tie Down Model 80 actuator and I have the capablity to put a locking pin in the receiver portion of the actuator that prevents theactuator from maunally applying my brakes if the solenoid should fail. I'm sure your actuator has the same feature. It looks like you have a Titan actuator and I am not familiar with that actuator. Maybe someone else will add to the discussion. It sounds like the issue is backup solenoid.

One other question did your trailer have disc brakes before your replaced them?

The lock out holes are located just to the left of the annotation in the picture. If your actuator should have the same capability you can use it to trouble shoot your solenoid. If your trailer brakes don't lock up when you have the receiver pinned then there is a problem with the solenoid.

RocknReeln · 10-07-2008, 09:09 AM

Thank You Tom. No they used to be disc brakes, as well(I know the problems associated with a conversion). My Tiedownreverse solenoid looks alot like yours. I do not have the same tongue hitch as you and do not see themaual pins - but I guess a block of wood would prevent the brakes from going on.What if the brakes are rubbing and compressed while just going forward?

Few more questions (I'm ADD/OCD), although I thinkyour right - I willtroubleshoot the solenoid, how do I replace the solenoid - do I just disconnectand wrench on the new one and run the wire to the 5 prong plugin or will I have to bleed the system at one of the calipers before or after replacement? Can I get access to the master cylinder from the top/black cap at the hitch tongue to add fluid? Also, do my brake pads need to be replaced from the picture above and do I need to compress the piston to get the pads back over the rotor? Sorry, I am a little lost on this process.

Thanks again.

Rock

bluewaterpirate · 10-07-2008, 12:04 PM

Solenoid is easy to replace but before I did that would ensure all your connections are clean (no corrision) and that you are not hearing the click from the solenoid when your put your truck in reverse. If you have to replace the solenoid you'll have to drain the brake fluid out of the master cylinder plus you'll lose some from the hydraulic lines too. After you remove it you'll have to reconnect the black wire to the existing black wire that you'll cut to remove the old one.

Here's everything you'll need to know about replacing the pads etc.

http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/c752.pdf

Solenoid replacement .....

http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/a152.pdf

RocknReeln · 10-07-2008, 01:17 PM

Outstanding Tom.

Thank You.

I'm gonna give it a go.