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I have a 2005 Loadmaster Tandem Torsion Axle trailer. The trailer currently has 10" Kodiak Drum brakes all around ...at least thats what the paperwork I got with the trailer claims them to be. 14" 5 lug wheels.
I'm going to upgrade to the 10" SilverCadmium Disk brakes from Kodiak. These things are sold in kits. These kits seem to be pretty complete but............
Are my existing brake lines and actuator going to work with this? Is there some sort of back up release thingabobber that I have to install? The bearings that come in these kits going to fit?
What are the issues that I have yet to discover?
I know some of you guys have already done this so any advice would be greatly appreciated before I get started. Figured I'd ask now rather than during the procedure.
Your drum brake actuator cannot be used with disc brakes. It will keep pressure on the calipers and overheat the brakes. Some folks on this forum have personal experience with this problem.
While it is possible to modify the actuator, you would be better off replacing it with a disc brake actuator.
Very interested in this install as I will be doing the same thing in a couple of weeks --- Good luck...Please post some pics of the job and of the replacement actuator...
IMPORTANT- Using a long ice pick, awl or other sharp instrument, puncture the check valve located inside
the rear of the master cylinder of your surge actuator.
You can use your old drum brake actuator, if you do this before installing the reverse lockout solonid.
Truepursuit: I did exactly what your are contemplating three summers years ago to a 30-ft EZ Loader: -drum to Kodiak disk conversion. I also upgraded to EZ Loader's optional oil bath hubs. To support the oil bath, I also replaced the oil seal sleeves. The package is the best thing I have done to that trailer in ten years. Since conversion, the trailer brakes, hubs, bearings, and all have been trouble free and essentially maintenance free. The only maintenance I have done is to change the oil in the hubs and I only did that to check the bearings for rust. I do not miss the annual greased bearing maintenance. Here are my pointers:
1. Go to www.Championtrailers.com > Technical Assistance and down load the articles on disk break installation, break line tubing installation, and any others of interest. Study the first two even if you think you know what you are doing. 2. The coupler must be either changed or upgraded for disk….no exceptions. I have an Attwood model and Champion sells replacement parts, which includes a replacement master cylinder for Disk brakes. I chose to do the rebuild because it was a lot cheaper than coupler replacement and all the mechanical components of my Attwood were in good shape. 3. You will need to add the reverse lock out solenoid and this will require a 5 wire trailer cable change out. I had to convert from 4 to 5 wires and to a 5 pin plug. With that I also had to figure out that for my Expedition to activate the 5th wire (reverse) there is a relay that needs to be installed. It was a tip on this site that helped me with that. 4. If you launch in saltwater, figure on installing SS break tubing. Also figure that most if not all your tubing connectors will be beyond reuse. I stripped my trailer and re-tubed it all. Why go this far and not. Also note that if any of your current brake tubing is rubber hose it will have to be replaced with solid tubing to eliminate the rubber hose ballooning due to the higher pressure that the disk require to operate. My trailer was hose from the axles to the coupler and my EZ Loader kit came with a long section of tubing to replace it. 4. Get the boat off the trailer if at all possible. It will make the job much easier and safer. I off-loaded my 23-ft onto blocks (carefully!) and then put the trailer on blocks and stripped everything off it including the fenders to make the job easier. 5. Take your time. I have pictures but I’m traveling and they are on my external hard drive. Really all, you need is in the Champion articles. If there are any questions, send me an email. MDT
Thank You Gentleman. You've been a great help. Especially you MDT.......I'll check out the champion website. I new it was going to more than just the Kodiak Brake Kits.
I installed Kodiak disk breaks this past spring on a tandem axle trailer that at one time had brakes, but the former owner replaced the axles and removed the brakes, for whatever reason. I used the Kodiak silver cadmium brakes, purchased thru Champion trailers out of Slidel, LA. They have a front axle kit which contains the stainless brake tubing and all parts needed for this install. I had to replace my axle as well, the old one did not have the brake flange installed. I really like the new spindle lube axle.
The best price that I found on the brake coupler was at Eastern Marine.
One additional tip....go to a local dealer and find a trailer similar to yours with disk. Study how the calipers are aligned during installation with the axle and how the short hose from the caliper to the tubing on the trailer is run. Reason being is that while you are working on it on blocks, the suspension will not be compressed. MDT
I just did an install on my 2002 LoadRite aluminum I-Beam trailer .... I used the Tie Down vented brakes but the procedure is the same. I actually replaced both torsion axles because of some corrosion issues. Here are some videos of the process. They will give you an idea of what your facing. I did all the work myself a little time consuming but well worth it. These vidoes should get you started.
Thanks BlueWater....those videos are darn good. I have a question about brake bleeding? You did the axle farthest from the actuator first and the high bleeeder valve first. Do you have to then bleed the lower bleeder valve next and then do the forward axle after that?
You bleed the brake closest to the actuator first. Bleed the highest point first. I found that after doing this it wasn't necessary to bleed the lower calliper nipple. There you go.
IMPORTANT- Using a long ice pick, awl or other sharp instrument, puncture the check valve located inside
the rear of the master cylinder of your surge actuator.
You can use your old drum brake actuator, if you do this before installing the reverse lockout solonid.
The above stated method did not work for me, I had to disassemble the master cylinder and completely remove the check valve, since then no real issues, the breaks do tend generate more heat then my old drums......
Tight Lines
Monty
I just upgraded my loadmaster trailer replacing the drums with the Kodiak Cad disc brakes and I spoke with both Triton and the trailer guys who both agreed that only a disc actuator should be used and not the old drum actuator. The trailer guy told me that if you were involved in an accident involving the trailer and had the incorrect actuator on the trailer your insurance policy would not cover. Bought a Triton 60 disc actuator online with the back up solenoid for $119 and installed it myself. Small price to pay IMO for doing it right. Total install took less then 2 hours, removing the old, rewiring the new and bleeding the brakes....
I just upgraded my loadmaster trailer replacing the drums with the Kodiak Cad disc brakes and I spoke with both Triton and the trailer guys who both agreed that only a disc actuator should be used and not the old drum actuator. The trailer guy told me that if you were involved in an accident involving the trailer and had the incorrect actuator on the trailer your insurance policy would not cover. Bought a Triton 60 disc actuator online with the back up solenoid for $119 and installed it myself. Small price to pay IMO for doing it right. Total install took less then 2 hours, removing the old, rewiring the new and bleeding the brakes....
Albury Brothers 20' with 175 Suzuki
Yes I have a Triton Model 6 Actuator....I went to the Triton and Website to see what I could find out. Did you just buy a new Master Cylinder or did you have to buy the whole Actuator? It would seem I could just buy a new Master Cylinder. The Triton Model 6 Actuator comes in either a Disc model or a Drum Model.
oceanluvr30 - 9/25/2008 9:21 PM
................ The trailer guy told me that if you were involved in an accident involving the trailer and had the incorrect actuator on the trailer your insurance policy would not cover.
The trailer guy should stick to trailers and stop giving insurance advice.
Your insurance policy will cover you even if you have defective or incorrect equipment on your trailer. Check your policy for a "incorrect actuator" exclusion clause or ask your agent. You are covered if you are speeding, driving drunk or under the influence of drugs, have an equipment failure on your vehicle, low tire pressure, etc.
Insurance is not the issue, your safety, the safety of your boat and trailer, and the safety of others is what's important. If you know what you are doing, you can remove the check valve from the brake cylinder and reassemble everything. If not, it's best to buy the correct actuator in the first place. Punching a hole with an ice pick (even though it may appear to work) is not a good option.
Truepursuit, have you called Loadmaster and priced out the job having them do it?
It may be just as cost effective to haul the trailer up to Tampa and have them do it...if the boat is off it, they can probably do it within a couple hours.
Installing Kodiak Brakes on my Trailer 
