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Old 04-19-2017, 05:33 AM   #1
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Default Wahoo proofing mono ballyhoo pin-rigs

I fish in an area where you can get wahoo, tuna or mahi on any given day. I fish almost all ballyhoo pin rigs with wire on the two downrigger baits and mono on everything else. I've been getting a lot of wahoo on my mono baits lately and I'm trying to reduce cutoffs. I recently switched my rigging from a larger loop with the weight in the loop to the style below with a crimp on each side of the weight. The double crimp style seems to have reduced cutoffs but I'm wondering if there are any other ways to wahoo proof baits but still run mono to the lure. Yellow fin season is coming up I want my mono rigs to be a stealth a possible.

Was thinking of adding a small piece of chaff tube or a running wire through the lure head than switching to mono but can't think of a way to get the wire-to-mono connection stealth enough.
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:03 AM   #2
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use 109 pound single strand for pin rigs. You will have to rerig every bait. No way to wahoo proof light mono.
I use loop protector over mono for lures. It works because only a small amount of mono needs protection.
I rig tandem J hooks for wahoo, it minimizes the tail biters. I open the eye of the second hook and slide it over the first hook and close the eye. The second hook should come out the vent of the bait.
Try skipping baits off the long riggers. I rig 4 lines off the stern and use the gunnel mounts for the long riggers. Dorado and bill fish hit the long riggers as well as wahoo.
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:21 AM   #3
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I wouldn't use a needle eye hook for that application with mono
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:25 AM   #4
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Here is how I rig mine. I still just pull some mono only rigs in deep water but if I'm trolling in less than 1000' of water, I typically run something like the attached photo.

I still loose rigs though. Wahoo will strike at the head of the lure and cut the leader.

BTW, while you're asking about Ballyhoo pin rigs, but I pull about 50% of my rigs with no ballyhoo. I really can't tell much difference in strikes of bait vs no bait. I can pull cheaper lures with bait like sea witches though which helps with the pain of cutoffs and lost lures.
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:29 AM   #5
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I run 2-3" of wire to the hook and attach it to the fluoro leader via a modified Albright's knot. If I'm running the wire I leave the ballyhoo bills on to hide it and fasten the bills to the wire with copper wire. Works pretty good.
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:33 AM   #6
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I used 275# 49 strand cable on the rig above. I try to stay away from single strand wire as I've had Hoo's cut through SS wire. All of the wire is hidden by the skirt or ballyhoo.

I know that my rigs are overkill but I'm dealing with lots of Hoos.
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Old 04-19-2017, 10:58 AM   #7
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Here is how I rig mine. I still just pull some mono only rigs in deep water but if I'm trolling in less than 1000' of water, I typically run something like the attached photo.

I still loose rigs though. Wahoo will strike at the head of the lure and cut the leader.

BTW, while you're asking about Ballyhoo pin rigs, but I pull about 50% of my rigs with no ballyhoo. I really can't tell much difference in strikes of bait vs no bait. I can pull cheaper lures with bait like sea witches though which helps with the pain of cutoffs and lost lures.
This is what I'm looking for. With those extra connections it looks the hook would sit very far back from the lure.

Most of my cutoffs are on the mono loop that connects to the hook, luckily the crimp still stops the lure head from falling off so I just loose the hook.

I get surprisingly few wahoo bites on lures without ballyhoo.
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
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This is what I'm looking for. With those extra connections it looks the hook would sit very far back from the lure.

Most of my cutoffs are on the mono loop that connects to the hook, luckily the crimp still stops the lure head from falling off so I just loose the hook.

I get surprisingly few wahoo bites on lures without ballyhoo.
If that is the case then you might try the cheater rig
run your wire in the tag end of double barrel and through eye of hook and back through double barrel and then make bend for your pin. This is still very stealthy for tuna.
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:50 AM   #9
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If that is the case then you might try the cheater rig
run your wire in the tag end of double barrel and through eye of hook and back through double barrel and then make bend for your pin. This is still very stealthy for tuna.
I'll give this a try.
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Old 04-19-2017, 12:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
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If that is the case then you might try the cheater rig
run your wire in the tag end of double barrel and through eye of hook and back through double barrel and then make bend for your pin. This is still very stealthy for tuna.
this
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Old 04-19-2017, 01:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucklene View Post
This is what I'm looking for. With those extra connections it looks the hook would sit very far back from the lure.

Most of my cutoffs are on the mono loop that connects to the hook, luckily the crimp still stops the lure head from falling off so I just loose the hook.

I get surprisingly few wahoo bites on lures without ballyhoo.

You're correct, in that my hook and bait is back from the lure. The head of the ballyhoo, is covered but the lure hair just covers the gill plate. First, I want the hook clear of the lure hair, not to interfere with the hook set. Second, I like larger mass lures which generally equals larger fish. Its easier to clean a big fish than a bunch of little ones.

BTW, Redweiser posted a pic a year or two ago with a similar rig but he had used a little JB weld on the crimps which made for a nice rig with no burrs. I use that on my rigs when I've got a little extra time on my hands.
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Old 04-19-2017, 01:15 PM   #12
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Great info. thanks Ironworker

Do you run these or straight wire/cable on your downrigger baits? Wondering if you think these are superior to straight wire if only targeting wahoo.
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:22 PM   #13
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I use bullet weights and run the wire on the outside of the weight, through hook eye and back through weight I then crimp mono and wire together on the same crimp...has zero effect on the rig an at least protects as far up as the bullet weight...wish I had a pic.
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Old 04-19-2017, 04:47 PM   #14
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Great info. thanks Ironworker

Do you run these or straight wire/cable on your downrigger baits? Wondering if you think these are superior to straight wire if only targeting wahoo.
I run a completely different rig when I'm targeting wahoo. Wahoo are not shy. All of these lures are pulled on either outriggers or flat lines.

The rig pictured above if for when I'm trying to NOT catch wahoo. My daughter told me she's sick of catching wahoo and wants to catch something else.

I'm running pretty light mono leaders such as 125# or 100#.

If I'm targeting wahoo, then I'm running a trolling lead of 48 to 64 oz with 480# cable through it, a 20' of 250# mono shock leader, then a lure with 3' of 480# cable. I never pull a baited lure for wahoo all high speed trolling.

Even with this heavy rig, I still loose lures. The wahoo strike the trolling lead and sometimes the swivel attaching the trolling lead to the line which leads to cutoffs.

I don't use downriggers when fishing for wahoo.
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:04 PM   #15
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You are much better suited using a Wire Ballyhoo rig.
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:47 AM   #16
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Have you looked at the Better Bait Systems ballyhoo quickrigs....they are very easy to rig and would solve your problem
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:22 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Regulator29 View Post
If that is the case then you might try the cheater rig
run your wire in the tag end of double barrel and through eye of hook and back through double barrel and then make bend for your pin. This is still very stealthy for tuna.
Made a few of these last night. Seemed to work alright, only concerns is the hook doesn't move as freely with both mono and wire going through the eye. I'll see how they work with ballyhoo on them.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:25 AM   #18
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Have you looked at the Better Bait Systems ballyhoo quickrigs....they are very easy to rig and would solve your problem
These look good too but pricey.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:47 AM   #19
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Bucklene,

You mentioned you are seeing cut offs right at the eye of the hook, correct? It seems like many have tried to address that issue with their suggestions.

That said, have you seen cutoffs up the mono, up toward the middle of further up your mono leader? If so, I think this occurs when a wahoo hits the original bait and hooks himself, he then runs away and the lure rides up the mono leader due to water pressure. The lure in on the mono somewhere behind the hooked fish and another wahoo comes and hits the wayward lure and cuts the mono. You loss your lure and the original fish.

IF this is also a problem or concern...

A fix I learned while marlin fishing in Australia is to take rigging floss and tie/wrap a small clump of it 1 foot in front of the lure (on the Mono leader). This small small wrap of rigging floss will act as a stopper when the original fish hits. The lure will stick one foot away from the original wahoo's mouth and therefore the lure will ride along the fishes body/side. This close proximity will keep the other wahoo from hitting the free floating lure like in the past. That type of cutoff can be avoided while still using mono leader.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:07 AM   #20
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Just rig the whole lure with multi strand wire. Mahi dont give a damm neither do wahoo.
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