here is a final edition penn 30s international, straight out of the box via riverside marine. i've had quite a few of these come through in the last several months. popular reel, very tough. here's a link to the schematics....
http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/stor...4&ClearCache=1
and here's the reel....
to rebuild these reel, you don't need much in the way of tools or supplies.
the first thing you need to do is shoot a bead of grease into every screw hole. we'll start by removing the quadrant (key #2) and screws (key #'s 31, 32 and 38b).
don't lose the two spacing bushings (key #157).
now you have access to all of the right side plate screws (key #'s 31a and 38a).
this part is really nutz! some of the screws are greased....
and some of them are not!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so figure this. if these screws seize up, you will not be able to get the reel apart. let's put the right side plate back together again and open up the left side plate. all the left side plate screws (key #31A).
off comes the left side plate.
out comes the spool.
out comes the spool shaft and bellevilles in a "()()" orientation.
pull off the reel stand and grease everything.
grease the clamp screws (key #34).
and clean it all up.
now we're going to open up the left side of the spool. back out the four drag cover screws (key #123). careful, it's spring loaded.
find the drag cover (key #156), four screws (key #123), the drag washer (key #117), the bearing spring (key #41). the bearing (key #20) and bearing sleeve (no key #).
just for comparison, here is a dry old style penn ht-100 drag washer on the left, and the new dura drag from this reel. the weave is clearly different....
and the new dura drag washer has "dura gel" on it. in this case, there might be a little too much "dura gel" in some places....
and not enough "dura gel" in others.... i know it's hard to see, but in the photo below, the inside half of the drag is coated, and the outside half was missed! this half of the drag washer might now be suseptible to corrosion after salt water intrusion.
some of the right side bearings just pop out. others (like this one), have a bearing retaining ring (no key #) held in by the ratchet (key #81). don't try to just pound out the bearing without knowing which one you have first!
let's pull the right spool bearing. first remove the ratched (key #81) and screws (key #101).
and the retaining ring (no key #) and bearing (key # 20) will pop right out.
now, for the spool bearings....
these bearings have pressed in shields. i'm going to pry out the shields with the point of a small pen knife.
ok, now we have open bearings. here's the grease. it's very uneven. if salt water gets into these bearings, they will rust. no doubt about it. these bearing will be toast.
we'll clean out the old grease. now you have to decide. what will it be? your choices are corrosion x (sorry, in a reel x bottle), alan's secret sauce, shimano bearing grease, or yamaha engine grease.
if you want to use heavy grease, this is the way it has to be packed in.
my choice is to clean out the old grease and lube the bearing with corrosion x. let's just hope that the corrosion x people are correct about the quality of their product.
let's grease some screw holes and reinstall the right side plate bearing.
the bearing sleeve and left spool bearing go in through the other side.
here is the spool shaft (key #13), the bellevilles (key #18) and thrust washers (no key #).
we're going to change the orientation of the belleville's from "()()"....
to "(())" with a thrust washer.
and into the spool it goes.
now for the drag washer. clean off any junk on the washer.
apply a thick coat of shimano drag grease to the the drag washer, paying particular attention to the edges where salt water might intrude.
now wipe down the drag washer, taking off ALL of the excess grease until it looks the same as a dry washer.
grease the screw holes for the the drag cover screws.
i hope your thumb muscles are in shape. you need to press down on the drag washer and screw in the drag cover screws.
install the spool and make sure the gears mesh properly.
grease the frame screw holes.
the long screw goes in at the 12 o'clock position.
the left side plate goes back on and you're done.
when i went to put the reel back in the box, i saw something that gave me a good chuckle.
when i started, this reel had three seconds of freespool. i don't know what the maximum drag at strike was (before losing freespool) because the reel had no line on it, but at that strike setting, the reel had only three seconds. i don't mean to harsh, well, who am i kidding, yes i do mean to be harsh. this reel didn't spin worth beans straight out of the box. now i have 20 seconds of freespool.
and some of you need freespool, and some of you do not. now, the drag washer would have been fine regardless. no problem there. the drag range alone would take two minutes to change. or change back. no problem here either. greasing the screw holes is a little picky, unless you're the guy trying to work on a reel that has seized up side plate screws. maybe by opening up the bearings, we decrease the likelyhood that water intrusion would make these bearings rust. maybe not.
and if you have an old 30 international with bad freespool or sticky drags, now you know how to fix it!
penn 30s international II rebuild 
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with the beefier ones that came with the reels, or should I just re-orient them the way you have don (())l with a thrust washer. The thrust washer, is it anything special, or can I pick up a stainless one from boatersworld?
