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I looked though all the old posts using the “search”, but can’t find anything that really answers my question: How do you set the drag on a reel (lever or star)? I have both kinds (Shimano and Penn).
I’ve read all the stuff about setting the drag at about 30% of line strength, but how do I do that?
I’ve been using a Shimano fish scale. I tie the leader to the scale, attach the scale to something solid, and pull. If I’m going for 15 lbs of drag, I tighten the drag until the line stops coming off the reel when I’m pulling hard enough to register 15 lbs on the scale.
Am I missing something, or is this a correct method? It was all working well until I broke a rod tip on a 20-60 lb rod while trying to get 15 lbs of drag set. I suspect I'm pulling more than I'm registering, which might explain how I broke a 20-60 while registering less than 15 on the scale.
Many opinions out there, some far more complex than others. Here's the way I do it and it's good enough for me.
I put the rod with the reel I'm setting in one of the stern rod holders on the boat. Run the line thru all of the guides and out the tip top guide, just as it would be rigged for trolling. (Boat sitting on the trailer in the yard or in the water tied up at the dock) I attach the line from the reel to the spring loaded scale and from behind the boat, pull until the drag slips. Read the value on the spring scale when it starts to slip and and that's where the drag is set. Make corrections until it's where you want it to be. Traditional wisdom says 25 to 33% of breaking strength when the drag slips. With lever drags, I set the drags to slip with the lever full forward (Full back to change the setting). Many will argue with the setting at strike verses full, but this is what works well for me.
1. in the rod holder, i'd pull straight down with the scale and set the drag to 25-33% of the line weight at strike. that puts the same load on the rod that the fish would exert and takes into account the resistance over the guides. if you use a 33% drag setting, figure on busting off a few fish. pay your money, take your choice.
2. then i would push the lever to full and measure the drag on a straight pull down with the rod still in the holder. you might have a fish doing a death spiral 20 feet under the boat and it's "now or never" time. at that point, you'd shove the lever to full, take a deep breath, crank and lift like crazy and to bring the fish to the gaff before you pass out.
3. lastly, i'd hold the rod level and measure the drag at strike one more time. the purpose is to check the rod. with a 15 pound drag setting, you should have a 1 pound drop in drag on a straight line pull compared to the setting on a straight pull down. this tells you the amount of "drag" that you get from the rod. i watched one poor guy lose three tuna in a row. he'd hook up and i'd hear a "zzztttt. zzztttt, zzzttt, pow!!!" then "son of a bitch!!!!" i checked his rod and he had 15#'s of drag on a lift and 10#'s on a straight pull back. he had a cheap ceramic rod tip. i put on an afto roller tip and he was back in business.
__________________ eddie's brother, grady white 258 journey
Its kinda done the other way round. Set your drag, put the rod in a holder, tie the line to the scale, and walk off with the scale. Adjust drag till you get to your desired setting. I'm guessing the rod tip breakage may have resulted from previous damage to the rod, though.
yeah, that too. i've broken a few tips as well. always yank on a rod in the shop before the final purchase, or at least after the purchase and before leaving the shop.
__________________ eddie's brother, grady white 258 journey
Thanks guys. It was a Crowder Tarpon rod. Today I took the rod back to the local tackle shop who ordered it for me. They called Crowder while I was there, and the guys at Crowder agreed with what you said; the rod tip was probably damaged during shipping. Crowder is sending me a new rod right away. Can't beat a life-time warranty.