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Old 04-11-2005, 11:38 PM
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Default the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

you either have one now, or you've had one in the past. it's been a love/hate relationship. easy on the pocketbook, hard on your nerves when the drags started to skip or stutter. not enough side plate drag capacity for the size of the spool. dinky handle. corrosion everywhere. it was just never good enough. you know the reel. it's the penn jigmaster.

the oversized jigmaster power handle helped alot, didn't it. so did shimano drag grease. and you promised to start taking better care of your reels by rinsing them off. but then you tried to lean on the reel too much and that stupid post where the handle attaches started to round off. pretty soon the handle was wobbly and your precious jigmaster was tossed back in the junk box, where it has sat ever since. well, it was the skinny little brass gear sleeve that failed. i know the problem well.

here is a photo of the the three brass gear sleeves that penn makes, and something special from peter kolekar....

the large gear sleeve (penn part #98-114)on the left comes from the 6/0 penn 114h. next to it is the medium gear sleeve (#98-320) from the 4/0 penn 113h. third is the small gear sleeve (#98-60) from the jigmaster, 113, 112h, squidder and long beach. and the fourth one is a custom stainless steel gear sleeve made by my machine shop buddy, pete kolekar.

the issue with these gear sleeves is damage or "rounding off" at the top where the handle bolts on. when the drags stick (or the drags are simply set too high), the gear sleeve will round off under pressure from the handle. this damage is common for the small jigmaster/112h gear sleeve, less so for the larger ones. more importantly, it limits the amount of drag you can use on these small reels. the the jigmaster and the 3/0-sized 112h are limited to 8#'s of drag at the top of the spool before risking damage to the gear sleeve. and regardless of which penn brass gear sleeve you had, if the handle nut was on too loose, the soft brass gear sleeve would be damaged immediately. many reel repair shops would then insist on replacing the entire bridge assembly, knowing (or not knowing) that it was possible to replace just the gear sleeve. this is where pete kolekar comes in.

this afternoon i rebuilt an old high speed jigmaster 505hs. the bearings were shot. the 5:1 brass main gear and stainless steel pinion gear were shot. the soft brass gear sleeve was rounded off. the owner said he wanted to be able to cast 75 yards with 30# spectra. he needed 10#'s of drag and the 5:1 gear ratio.

so here was my answer. new bearings and a new brass gear set from penn. if these gears failed again, then we would go to a set of newell 5:1 gears. greased drags. a penn power handle. a narrow frame and spool 506 conversion kit (on special from pennparts.com). and lastly, a stainless steel gear sleeve from pete kolekar. the narrower frame will allow him to cast farther. the stainless steel gear sleeve will allow him to use 10-15#'s of drag without rounding off the gear sleeve. it was a standard rebuild, with yamaha engine grease in all the screw holes, corrosion x in the bearings, and shimano drag grease on the drag washers. here is the result....

your long distance casting solution.



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Old 04-12-2005, 06:04 AM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

Wow, your reel knowledge is remarkable !! Please keep up these great, informative, posts.
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:23 AM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

How much for those SS gear sleeves? I'd like to get a few ...
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:30 AM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

nice reel
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:51 AM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

thanks, guys. it was a fun reel to work on.

RR, you've got mail.
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:35 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve


Any reason you didn't replace the frame braces/posts with a one-piece frame from Accurate or Tiburon?

Tom
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Old 04-12-2005, 03:35 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

the narrower the frame, the stronger. the 501 and 506 are narrow enough that the full frame is probably not necessary for straight 30# spectra and 10#'s of drag. with a standard width jigmaster, i would have recommended an accurate frame. although obviously not the strongest configuration, the bar and reel seat frame really isn't that bad.
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Old 04-13-2005, 11:24 AM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

Quote:
Reel-Rascals - 4/12/2005 11:23 AM

How much for those SS gear sleeves? I'd like to get a few ...


Me Too ???
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Old 04-13-2005, 02:35 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

thanks, ken. you've got mail. guys, the photo hosting service i use will be down for another day. after that, the photos will be back up. an e-mail question was asked, so i thought i'd post it....

Quote:
Question - your post on THT says it could fit a std model 113, not the 113H. I have 2 older, but mint, Penn 113 reels. Would you venture a guess at to what I might be able to get out of them for drag if I used this sleeve and greased HT-100 drag washers? I'm OK with the install too on the 113 or the
jigmaster.

answer - the plain black side plate low speed 113 senator uses a jigmaster gear sleeve. it's really absurd when you sit and think about it. the high speed 113h will get 25#'s of drag. the low speed 113 will get 12-15#'s but the gear sleeve rounds off at 8-10#'s of drag. and the stupid spools are the same size!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you may have the old style 3-stack of thick drag washers in the black 113. they need to be replaced. there is just barely enough room for a 5-stack of #6-60's. you will also need an additional slotted metal and keyed metal washer. don't for get the #6-155 drag washer under the gear to replace the fiber washer. if you don't have a jigmaster power handle on already, definitely get one. pennparts.com and help with the handle and washers. and when you install the handle, crank down the handle nut until it firmly seats, then crank it around hard until the slot lines up with the screw hole for the set screw. don't leave the handle loose.
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Old 04-13-2005, 09:51 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

here's another one....

Quote:
Question - I have a Penn Long Beach 65 that my uncle gave my Dad about 40 years ago that I am fixing to rebuild. I believe the reason he gave it to My Dad is that he took it apart and lost the dog spring and it didn't work right. Its so old it uses the 14-155 dog spring. I need 4 HT-100, 6-60 and the dog spring. Do you have these parts? I can get them from www.pennparts, but the $7 freight for $5 worth of parts gets old. I would love to change the bridge in the old reel to the new one (with the larger post ) and use the fine threaded gear sleeve but the gear ratio is so slow (2.4 to1) I would never use it. Do you know of a gear swap that would get it up to around 3 1/4 to 1 ?
answer - the stainless steel gear sleeve has coarse threads, so you need a #10-60 star with coarse threads. i personally prefer the heavier threads to decrease the risk of stripping the threads. i really crank down hard on the star when i'm looking for 10-12#'s of drag from these reels. the i've got #14-99 dog springs and can send you one, as well as the four #6-60 drag washers. one goes under the gear. i highly recommend greasing the drags. i also recommend a jigmaster power handle. i don't know of any other combinations of main and pinion gears that will match this reel. i think you're stuck with this.

the old long beach series of reels has a long history of spotty service. at one time, they were the best around. that is no longer so. to bring the reel back up to a serviceable condition, i would replace the drag washers. a handle would be really nice, but i'm not sure it's really worth putting any money into at all. you'll get more power and better service from a jigmaster or 3/0 sized senator 112h.

if you really are intent on using this reel, you'd probably use straight 30# mono and 8#'s of drag. the problem is that there is not enough side plate and too much spool. you're right on the border of needing a stainless steel gear sleeve or not. this reel would be a good candidate, but it's pretty old and slow. you sure you want to do this?

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Old 11-27-2005, 12:55 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

Would the gear sleeve fit a Penn Mariner 49. I use these reels for wire line bunker spoon trolling in NJ. I put an accurate handle and i probably rounded off the gear sleeve. Your stainless one sounds like a possible solution.
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Old 11-27-2005, 03:23 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

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drylee - 11/27/2005 10:55 AM Would the gear sleeve fit a Penn Mariner 49. I use these reels for wire line bunker spoon trolling in NJ. I put an accurate handle and i probably rounded off the gear sleeve. Your stainless one sounds like a possible solution.
the stainless steel gear sleeve fit's the 49 mariner perfectly. but part of the problem was the accurate handle. the hole is cut too big. there is alot of play from the start. under any amount of stress, the brass gear sleeve gives out quickly. i would never recommend the accurate handle anyway. the arm is aluminum. it's too flexible and corrodes quickly.

here's the jigmaster power handle available from penn.



here's the tapered off-set handle that my machine shop buddy makes for me. the grip is simply adapted to a penn handle arm.



here's a photo of the penn 113h power handle on the left, a penn international handle. and a full sized tapered grip adapeted to the penn international arm. using the jigmaster power handle arm, you could mount the penn international grip, the tapered off-set grip, or the full-sized grip.



for starters, i would recommend a new set of greased carbon fiber drags, a new stainless steel gear sleeve, and a jigmaster power handle. these upgrades are fairly straight forward. e-mail me if i can help.
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Old 11-27-2005, 03:28 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

here's another photo of the stainless steel gear sleeve.

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Old 12-29-2005, 03:29 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

how do i get the old gear sleeve off?
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Old 12-29-2005, 10:53 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

on the middle of the gear sleeve, right where the threads end, you'll see a hole for the retaining pin. you need a long tapered punch. actually, a small nail will do. just grind the point flat and tap it out with a hammer. e-mail if you have problems. alan
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Old 12-30-2005, 03:26 PM
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Default RE: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

Is there a web site where these parts are available from? If not how are they available?

Mike
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Old 12-31-2005, 12:45 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

mike, i have a machine shop buddy that makes these for me. you've got mail.....
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:21 AM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

Alan, could you please resend email as I did not receive it as of today. Mike
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:19 PM
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Default RE: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

Hi Alan,
Where can I purchase the stainless steel gear sleeve you have discussed often in these and other forums. I have tried to google Pete Kolekar with no results.
Thanks, Andy
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Old 01-15-2008, 11:45 PM
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Default Re: the jigmaster stainless steel gear sleeve

pennparts.com now has them.
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