Who knows how to PROPERLY wire and gaff a fish?

[Tom Bare]

I want to open a dialogue concerning wiring and gaffing. I have seen quite a few mistakes made in the pit, some resulting in injuries. Moreover, I've seen countless "braggin'" pics that have made me cringe.

So.....first the wire:
When you guys wire a fish, have the angler back up when the swivel comes up to give you a better angle, thus letting you grab the leader. When I say back up, I mean towards the center of the boat.

When you grab the wire and take your first wraps a lot of times you'll get a good idea what kind of fish you are dealing with by their reaction to the pressure you put on them.

The most important thing you can do when wiring a fiSh is to GET IT OUT OF THE PROP WASH AND FROM BEHIND THE BOAT!!!!!

Wire that fish to the side; if it's a slob squat your ass in the corner and lean back, but get the damn thing from behind the boat. I see more fish lost because of this than any other wiring problem.

Don't take suicide wraps on big fish. Period. It's a good way to die. Period.

Take double wraps. If you wire big fish and use welder's gloves either tape them down or do what I did and have material removed from the "sleeve" and have it resewn so it is tight on your forearms. The problem that can happen is when dumping the leader, it can catch on the leather of the welder's gloves and bunch up at your wrist. If that happens it can be fatal.

Let's hear some questions and comments before we move to the fine art of gaffing, to which I will say there is no excuse for anything but a head shot, and you should be able to both wire and gaff a fish under 100 lbs solo.

[Parapapam]

Tom,

Good subject since I am an offshore newbie and I look forward to learning from you.* Let me ask you to describe your hand position and wrapping method.* For example:

I am in the Port/Stern corner of the boat.* When I grab the wire, should my left/right hand come up from underneath the line palm up or go down on the line palm down?* How should I twist my wrists to get the wraps?

It is sort of difficult to put into words what I am sure you could show me in person in 10 seconds....I guess bottom line is how do you grab the line in such a way*your a$$ won't get dragged overboard if the big slob decides to run.* How can you grab the line with the best possible probability of letting go if you have to?

[cgrand]

i was taught to take the wraps palm up...if you need to let go, open your hand, drop it palm up and let the wraps fall off your palm. also, the wire man should be behind the angler, with the angler as close to the centerline of the boat as possible, and as far toward the bow as possible

re: the gaff shot, hook facing down, bring the gaff over the shoulder/head of the fish back towards the gunwale

if i'm way off, lemme know!

[Patudo]

Won't claim to be an expert but maybe the following may help. Maybe!

- if using a windon leader you may not need to wire at all, lead him up alongside then stick him. Of course if you're on a big fish you may need to wire the fish, a gloved hand on the leader pulls harder than the rod.

- if wiring a wahoo or mahi pull leader at a low angle.. don't pull his head out the water or else he'll start shaking his head or jumping about and be very squirrelly to gaff. Keep his head low.

- skipper always keeps some forward way on the boat. Do this and the fish has to paddle along with the boat, easier target. Stop the boat and the fish can go any which way.

- if you're worried about taking wraps - either direct hand pulls or practice until you're 100 percent confident of pulling and letting go.

- don't jerk the leader, the smoother you can get leader back the better, the less it'll alarm the fish. Kinda like angling, really.

- if you have a billfish that is fresh and leaping around in many cases it's worth thinking about dropping leader and just let him calm down a little. he'll be easier to deal with and it'll take you only a little longer to catch the fish.

- if you are working with lighter leader be aware of the break strain of your leader and how solid the hook hold. this has a big influence how hard you can pull.

- cutting device on your belt. Always.

[Marlyn]

I was taught to take wraps by having little finger up then roll the hand down and apply pressure with the thumb, reach up and do the same with the other hand and not actually take turns on hte hand but rather have your hand fingers around the wire and your thumb applying pressure .

[Swami]

Good topic Tom. I have seen too many people who approach the end game the wrong way--things happen very fast and it's easy to get hurt if you're not very careful.

Gloves: Blue Fever makes a pair that's specifically designed for wiring big fish (www.bluefevergloves.com). These are the best on the market. I've used all kinds, from welder's gloves on down. They're expensive but cheaper than a trip to the doc for a broken hand. The Kevlar reinforcing helps keep the glove from crushing under the pressure of leader wraps.

Even more important than having the best equipment available is having the right mental attitude. NEVER approach this situation unless you're 100 percent in the game and focused on the task at hand. Get sloppy or lazy and bad things happen quickly.

For big fish (tunas and marlin), bend your knees to lower your center of gravity. Keep your elbows bent and hands low--if the fish starts to stretch you out, then dump the wraps and wait for another chance.

Wind-on leaders are great because the pressure on the fish doesn't change. Lots of hooks are pulled just out of gaff range because the fish senses a change in tension on the leader and goes bananas. Combined with an overzealous mate, the result is a lost fish.

That said, I really enjoy pulling on 'em!

Sam

[trex]

You should never touch a wind on leader unless it's a dolphin or something that jumps at the boat and you need slack. Pointing your fingers at the fish you can either make wraps in a clockwise(over the ****** or counterclockwise(under the palm) wraps. One is as good as the other. It's more of what feels better. Once you make TWO wraps then close your hand like your making a fist. Pull your arm and hand all the way back like your pulling a bow except rotate your shoulders and extend all the way back as far as you can. Once you've extended as far as you can make a wrap with the other hand. Your arms are like a shock absorber. Most of the time if a fish has been faught they wont make too much of a run, but it may feel like they are. It's a touch/practice thing. Once you've done it a bunch you'll be able to pull on the mono and know just how much heat you can put on it by the stretch in the leader. Always make two wraps! One wrap can slide through your glove and bust off before you can dump it, and 3 wraps can send you for a ride. Alot of good points made already. I just thought I'd try to explain it in my words/thoughts. I mated for 5 summers in Hatteras. I can crank in 15 fish and it wont get my juices flowin like wiring one will. I love it!!!

[rybovich]

I would also recommend purchasing a sportsman's release knife. You wear it around your neck and it will cut up to 800 lb. mono in an emergency.

[CB Haws]

So the next Mako we get boat side I should stick it in the head. I think not.

[sams]

I'm not a shark guy so I don't know about makos, however, everything from king fish to sword fish get the first gaff in the head as this does notruin fish and make the fish easier to controll. Sword get a second hook just forward of the caudal peduncle (sp?) which makes it easier to controll the pointy end.

As for wiring practice with the boat tied on a long lead beam to on the leeward side of your dock. The wind on the hull side will offer good resistance. This way you can practice taking and even better dumping your wraps in a safe environment. A large dog that likes to play "pull" is also a decent practice partner. Just crimp a tennis ball to some 300lb mono and get practicing.

Sam

[Fubar512]

CB Haws - 3/23/2005 11:12 PM

So the next Mako we get boat side I should stick it in the head. I think not.

CB, over the years I've found that sticking them (any shark species) in the gills quiets them down. Try it next time, it really works.

[Patudo]

Now we are on the subject of gaffing a few basic things that I often still remind myself because get the basics right and you should be o.k. almost all the time ...

- use the right size gaff, avoid using too large a gaff on small fish. Have a selection of gaffs in different sizes for different size fish. A good set for most meatfish work will be one with a 13/0 size hook for small fish work, one with about a 3 inch gape and one with about a 4 inch gape.

- gaff points should be sharp, as sharp as your hooks. Especially if you're trying to make headshot as the head and gill plates are bony.

- gaffman always takes position aft of the wireman. Keep the boat moving forward so the fish keeps swimming with the boat, laid out in position.

- if wiring and gaffing single handed, put the gaff somewhere out of the way but where you can get hold of it easily, until you get your last wrap and the fish is within range. Then pick up the gaff and make the shot.

- to make the gaff shot itself just reach over the fish with the gaff and pull the hook home. Practice on an old fender at home if you're really bored.

- always try for the headshot, normally even if you miss you end up a little further back and pin him in the shoulder. Thats still OK. Don't feel too beat up about missing the headshot unless you're a professional.

- Small squirrelly mahi and wahoo are the trickest to gaff. Tunas are easier as they normally swim straight and bigger ones tend to be played out a little by the time they come to gaff. Bigger tunas have a big head, making them easier to pin in the head. Large Mahi are potentially the most troublesome as they are very strong and twist about a lot. Be extremely careful gaffing these especially if he is hooked on a lure with a two hook rig.

- Don't hesitate to call for a second gaff if you think you need it. I know if I've just put a gaff into a 60 or 70 pound wahoo, it's better to be safe than sorry. Second gaffs should always be put in the head.

I won't call myself anything better than average gaffer but I do enjoy it. Although I'm not sure that looking at a 40 pound bull dorado that's looking back up at you and just knowing that he's going to explode the moment the steel goes in could be called fun, but definitely exciting. Guess it's just the thrill of the kill. When you're going for the shot you're focusing so hard and see the fish so clearly. Dorado and tuna in all their glowing colours and the electric blue stripes on a wahoo. They are never more alive than in that moment you're ready to go.

[cgrand]

patudo...

now that's a good post!

[Parapapam]

I asked this of Tom in his post...let me open up the question to a wider audience:

Tom,

Let me ask a newbie gaffing question:

I understand that a head shot is the ideal (unless gaffing a Mako...tuna will not try to attack you).* But what confuses me is statements that I have heard that say, "Keep the point of the gaff pointed down."* If the gaff basically looks like a long "J", how do you keep the pointed part facing down.* It would work great if the fish was over your head....

It mechanically make the most sense to me to place the gaff under the fish (point facing up), and pull up setting the gaff into the fish and lifting at the same time.

What am I missing or what don't I understand?

[Patudo]

Take a gaff and hold it out...The weight of the hook will naturally cause the hook to hang downwards. That is the position you want to gaff a fish. I don't like to try underhand gaff shots because the fish can see the gaff too easily, the gaff is in the water too much and if you miss the head you will get him in the belly which is soft and can tear out. I believe almost all the time, especially on bigger fish, you should be going for the standard gaff shot which is reaching across the top of his head and pulling the gaff point into him from the side opposite you. The gaff point should go in against the fish's own bulk and resistance, that's why the sharper the gaff the better and don't use too big a gaff on a smaller fish cos it's harder to stick the hook into a small fish. Once the gaff is in you kinda pull him towards the boat and change your grip to either lift him into the boat or hold him ready for the second gaff.

[Birdman]

Ok, I'm a newbie "gaffer".* We don't wrap the leader much, ussually just pull it (the fish with the leader) closer to the boat while the gaffer stands behind (toward stern) the leader guy.* I almost always use wind on leaders.** So what is the real need for actually "wrapping" the leader?** I'm not sure I want the leader wrapped around my hand with a big fish on the other end.

[CB Haws]

I stick my makos aft the dorsal to get the tail out of the water. Head shots can help them to pole vault right in the boat. Yes everything else gets it in the head. Threshers just get shot 10 feet from the boat Anything over 100 pounds can be dangerous. Most big yellow fins get two straight gafts to get them over the side. Mosy guys are going to struggle with a wiggling hundred pound fish. You can't eat them unless you get them in the boat.

[Patudo]

Most professionals wrap the leader because it gives them the most power and control. Done properly you can pull hard with no risk of the leader slipping, yet let go immediately if you need to. If I'm not fishing a windon or sometimes even if I am, I'll take wraps on the leader to steer the fish into position for the gaff. Be careful, don't jerk the leader here or else the hook can pull, a quiet fish can go crazy. Sometimes just a gloved hand on the leader is enough and sometimes there's no need to touch the leader at all when using a windon, the angler can just bring the fish to the gaff himself. Every situation is a little different.

Incidentally, and this may sound obvious but if you're wiring and gaffing single handed, make sure the gaff is one you can easily handle with one hand.

[jdfnav69]

One thing to add here. Once the wireman has a couple of firm wraps the reel guy needs to back off the drag. If it becomes necessary for the wire man to dump the leader, if it gets dropped on a stiif drag that's an almost certain recipe for a pulled hook or busted leader.

[Wahooking]

GAFFING A WAHOO

One thing I can tell you is gaffing a wahoo is our last option. I have seen more injuries due to gaffing a wahoo than any other fish. If you don't get a perfect head shot with the gaff, wahoo will go ballistic. Them teeth are razor sharp and will cut just about anything. Very very dangerous

I fish off a big boat that has doors. All we do is wire them in like the advice given above. Then we slide them in through the doors. An ungaffed wahoo will remain almost motionless on the deck. I didn't believe it until I experienced it myself on 100 lb + fish in San Sal. It's a sight to see.

Anthony