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Old 02-26-2011, 01:51 PM
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Wink Deep Drop rig illustration

Hi Guys

OK i really don't know much a bout deep drops rigging!!

i would like help with illustration to show me how to rig my lines wights and lights
i will be using both electrical and normal reels
Thanks in advance
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:11 PM
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is there alot of current in your area?


check out www.100ffc.com Theres alot of deep drop guys on there.
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:21 AM
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I don't have an illustration but may be able to help. Like the rig below all deep drop rigs will have a loop on the top which will connect your main line to the rig via a snap swivel and a snap swivel on the bottom.

Your light will go at the top of the rig. Usually it is attached to the snap swivel on your main light. The larger DD Lights have a longliner clip which makes it easy to attach. Other lights have to be attached using a plastic tie.

Your weight will be attached to the snap swivel at the bottom of the rig. I recommend you attach the weight to the bottom snap swivel using a plastic tie as well. Most snap swivels used on the DD rigs are 200-300 lb test and you want the weight to be able to break off if it gets hung up on the bottom so you do not lose your entire rig and light. Make sure you use a fairly strong plastic tie that will break with about 30 lbs. of pressure or so.

Feel feel to PM or e-mail me with any questions on rigging or making the rigs. I make and sell all rigs, weights, and lights as well on my website.

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Old 03-23-2011, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clear Solution View Post
is there alot of current in your area?


check out www.100ffc.com Theres alot of deep drop guys on there.
good info
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:31 AM
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Here is another good swordfishing site

http://www.swordfishingcentral.com/forum/
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Old 03-24-2011, 04:56 PM
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Never knew about that 100FFC.com website. Trying to sign up but they have a pretty tough criteria. You have to give them a relative fishing resume.
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:51 PM
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Never knew about that 100FFC.com website. Trying to sign up but they have a pretty tough criteria. You have to give them a relative fishing resume.
They only have about 170 members on the forum so it is not real big!!!
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by John_Madison CT View Post
Never knew about that 100FFC.com website. Trying to sign up but they have a pretty tough criteria. You have to give them a relative fishing resume.
John its to weed out the non productive members like all forums have

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Old 03-24-2011, 09:41 PM
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And it keeps the spammers at bay... its worth it, some good stuff on there at times.
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Old 03-25-2011, 04:51 AM
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I tried to get on the site to learn some valuable info. Got an email from them asking for my life fishing history and apparently was declined since I didnt hear anything back. What an insult.
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Old 03-25-2011, 04:54 AM
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I tried to get on the site to learn some valuable info. Got an email from them asking for my life fishing history and apparently was declined since I didnt hear anything back. What an insult.

Sorry you feel that way, but it took me over two weeks to become a member there. It was well worth the wait

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Old 03-28-2011, 11:14 AM
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d-a and Clear Solution, thanks for the props.

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John its to weed out the non productive members like all forums have

d-a
d-a, Exactly.

Folks, I appreciate the concern but as head of the 100 Fathom Fishing Club its apparent I have to clear some things up.

First and foremost, we are a private fishing club - we are not and never have been a public fishing forum like THT, FS, SFC, etc. We prefer quality of members, not quantity of members. In other words, we try to keep out lurkers, spammers, people who like to start flamewars and especially anybody from the anti-fishing Enviro Industry.

Next, we don't charge any membership dues nor do we accept any advertising. Myself and the clubs officers, we fund the club's expenses out of our own pockets.

Finally, 100FFC is not your usual fishing club - it's members are all hardcore offshore recreational fishermen. We focus on just a few things - bottomfishing, swordfishing, deepdropping (manual & electric) and fisheries issues.

Since we aren't a public forum, please do not expect an instant or even an overnight reply to a membership application or inquiry. I handle all the apps and I have a busy schedule outside of running 100FFC. If we charged dues you should expect quicker responses from us. But we don't charge dues - so please be patient when you apply.

Please keep in mind - When someone replies to the club's standard membership inquiry, sometimes it becomes obvious that either 100FFC will not be a good fit for that applicant or vice versa.

Best Wishes For Lots Of Fishes (unless you are Jane Lubechenko),

Mark
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Last edited by CATCH-ALL; 03-28-2011 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jus4funn2010 View Post
I tried to get on the site to learn some valuable info. Got an email from them asking for my life fishing history and apparently was declined since I didnt hear anything back. What an insult.
after reading Catch's post,do you think anyone called jus4funn will get in? change to something like deadserious and you might have a chance.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:23 PM
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Okay, let's get this thread back onto track after it's derailment.

Here's a thread from 100FFC of my lucky tile rig that I had been using for three years until it was "lost at sea" due to trusting a friend's snap swivel terminal knot. So two years ago I made up a couple replacement rigs and took pics along the way so the 100FFC members would have an illustrated how-to guide. (NOTE: except for the last two pics, the weights are only in the picture because they are holding the rig in place, keeping it from curling back into a circle)

It helps to organize everything & lay it all out before you start. Then you know if you need anything from the tackle store.


INGREDIENTS - 300 lb mono leader spool, crimper tool, 8 crimps for 300 lb mono (make sure to get the right size), 3 swivel sleeves sized for 300 lb mono, 3 circle hooks (I like Mustad or Eagle Claw* 14/0), 3 glowinthedark chafe tubes, 3 glowinthedark beads, 1 snap swivel for bottom-weight, 1 swivel for top of rig


here's a closeup, with labels. The arrows indicate where you should crimp.


Per hook, you will need 2 crimps, 1 hook, 1 anti-chafe glowtube, 1 glow bead, 1 leg of 300 lb mono (I make mine the length of my forearm).


Step 1 - Main Leg With the line still on the spool, thread the three swivel sleeves onto the leader. Slide a crimp on and then double wrap the mono thru the swivel and use the crimp tool to swage the crimp. Then use your forearm to position the first swivel sleeve and use the crimp tool to swage each end of the swivel sleeve to fix the sleeve into place on the mono. Lather, rinse, repeat for the next two swivel sleeves. Using your forearm length again, cut the leader off the spool and crimp the snap swivel for the bottom-weight onto the other end.


Step 2 - Dropper Legs Using your forearm length, cut off three pieces of 300 lb mono from the leader spool, equal lengths. Slide the crimp on the leg, use the crimp tool to swage the crimp onto the mono. Lather, rinse, repeat for the next two dropper legs.


Step 3 - Glow Bead, Anti-Chafe Glow Tube, Crimp, Hook On each dropper leg, slide a glow bead, a chafe tube, a crimp. Using the crimp tool, swage the crimp onto the hook. Slide the chafe tube over the crimp, snugging it down. Lather, rinse , repeat for the next two dropper legs.


Step 3 - Closeup Of Finished Dropper Leg You have completed a Catch-All Tile Rig. For illustrative purposes, I snapped a heavy bottom-weight onto one end and placed a top-weight and strobe at the other end, which gets clipped on by your main line's snap swivel.


Closeup of Crimp & Stopper
Here's a closeup of the aluminum crimp, crimped in two places. Some prefer to crimp three times, once on each end and once in the middle.

Also, one of our 100FFC members showed me a cool trick. Get a synthetic wine cork and drill it out. Before you tie on the main line's snap swivel, slip the cork onto the line. It acts as a bumper in case you have an idiot on the reel who's not paying attention - it helps prevent the snap swivel getting sucked thru the rodtip. Otherwise broken rod tips, and/or lost rigs can result. If you paint it bright red it also helps as a visual cue when the rig is almost to the surface (...and Daiwa Tanacom owners chime in 3...2...1...). Just shove a couple wooden toothpicks in the hole as shims to keep it from floating up the line.



Like Ron Popeil says in his infomercials, "It's Just That EASY!!"

Hope This Helps,
Catch

* Eagle Claw also makes larger circle hooks up to 20/0 - perfect if you are fishing a Tilefish colony known to hold huge Golden Tiles. If you want to deepdrop manually and catch a potential IGFA ATWR, then use only two hooks and go onto IGFA.org to make sure you put your rig together IGFA-legal.
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Last edited by CATCH-ALL; 03-28-2011 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:15 PM
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Thanks for the detailed description
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:50 PM
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Old 03-28-2011, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDWEISER View Post
Redweiser - Great picture! yep, that's a good rig too, especially if you are unable to find the swivel sleeves depicted in my post. It looks like a traditional grouper/ snapper rig. Tilefish rigs usually have three hooks because Tilefish tend to hug the bottom and usually will not swim up to the 4th and 5th hooks on the top of a snapper/grouper rig.

The only thing I would nitpick are the hooks, which look like they are either Owner or Gamakatsu. The traditional narrow-gap circle hooks depicted in my post seem to have a better hookup retention rate for deepdropping than the Owners or Gamakatsu's.

Your hooks work fine for shallow-water bottomfishing but when deepdropping, the length of time from hookup to haulback to the fish reaching the surface is a lot longer than when fishing in shallow water (less than 200 feet). During that longer time, deepwater snappers, groupers and especially Tilefish will be twisting and fighting most of the way to the surface until they embolize at about 100 foot. The open-throat hooks your picture shows can allow the fish to twist and pop off the hook and swim back down.

Catch
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:13 PM
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Redweiser - Great picture! yep, that's a good rig too, especially if you are unable to find the swivel sleeves depicted in my post. It looks like a traditional grouper/ snapper rig. Tilefish rigs usually have three hooks because Tilefish tend to hug the bottom and usually will not swim up to the 4th and 5th hooks on the top of a snapper/grouper rig.

The only thing I would nitpick are the hooks, which look like they are either Owner or Gamakatsu. The traditional narrow-gap circle hooks depicted in my post seem to have a better hookup retention rate for deepdropping than the Owners or Gamakatsu's.

Your hooks work fine for shallow-water bottomfishing but when deepdropping, the length of time from hookup to haulback to the fish reaching the surface is a lot longer than when fishing in shallow water (less than 200 feet). During that longer time, deepwater snappers, groupers and especially Tilefish will be twisting and fighting most of the way to the surface until they embolize at about 100 foot. The open-throat hooks your picture shows can allow the fish to twist and pop off the hook and swim back down.

Catch
What is the listed strength of the swivel sleeves you're using?
I tried them and had problems with the small barrel swivels pulling out with a decent warsaw on. We have to get down on'em hard in the northern gulf to keep'em out of the rigs.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:35 PM
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What is the listed strength of the swivel sleeves you're using?
I tried them and had problems with the small barrel swivels pulling out with a decent warsaw on. We have to get down on'em hard in the northern gulf to keep'em out of the rigs.
Red I believe Catchall gets them from here. They should be the 2.0mm size or 200-300lb, but you can get them up to 750-lb

http://www.snlcorp.com/SNL/Tackle/swivelsleeves.aspx

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Old 03-28-2011, 08:03 PM
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What is the listed strength of the swivel sleeves you're using?
I tried them and had problems with the small barrel swivels pulling out with a decent warsaw on. We have to get down on 'em hard in the northern gulf to keep'em out of the rigs.
Red - True Dat!!

Like D-A said, the swivel sleeves I'm using are rated for 300 lbs. But I've heard from several people that these sleeves have failed on them in the past. The crimped sleeves/bead rig that you depict doesn't fail....and it's probably cheaper too.

A few of the charter guys I know here in the Gulf don't use a multi-hook rig when fishing at an oil rig. Instead, what they do is use a single hook rig - a single large circle hook (the bigger the better) thats been double crimped at the bottom of the rig, then about 25-30 feet of 300-400 lb mono leader wiith a 2lb cannonball egg sinker that has two bead/sleeve combos crimping the ball in place about 5-6 foot above the hook, and then a strong barrel swivel double crimped at the top end of this rig.

Warsaws, big Snowys, whatever - this is a proven rig and should work well for you too.

But there is still a risk of a truly big fish taking you into the rig anyway and rocking ("rigging"?) you up. One way to avoid this is to have a short breakaway section of mono between the single-hook rig and the main line's snapswivel that has a lighter test than the main line.

A breakaway section is a double-edged sword - on the one hand the thick 300-400 lb mono is mainly for abrasion resistance against the rig's sharp surfaces. But on the other hand one could say if you are going for large bottomfish you are accepting the possibility of a breakoff and it goes with the territory. Me? I'd say skrew the breakaway section, hammer down the drag and motor away from the rig as soon as your bait gets slammed and the rodtip bends down into the water!

Catch
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