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Random Quote: A fishermans plate is six days empty and one day full.
I have a nylon cord on them now. I thought it would be better to use so it lasts longer but it's rough on the hands. Is 400lb mono the best to use? What do you all use or recommend. And where do you suggest I order it from?
I use the nylon cord, too, set up just like Taco has on their website (adjustable length with riggers riding in up pos or fishing). I lube the cord up after every wash with Woody Wax and they work great.
I've been reading a bunch of the older threads... I like the idea of using 2 colors on line with the double set ups. I think I'm going to keep it simple by using a glass eye. I have an Aftco double roller blocks and I get tires of untangleing them after being stored. Unless you guys tell me there is something easier.
I hate to be a pain in you all's ars but... I have been reading on the set up as Regulator29 has mentioned and like what I see. I have looked up Hal Locks and found the double locks and the Harken Micro Blocks. My question is; where are you guys using the blocks? At the rigger eye? It's seems to me the the reason for needing the locks is because the line is creeping. I currently don't have an issue with lines creeping because I keep my lines not tight but not loose either. So would the glass eye eliminates cost and extra parts to fail/ replace? I currently use the nylon line and plan to use the two color mono set up for sure. Maybe the momo creeps worse than nylon???? I have been running the Aftco flat release for two years. I set them up by running momo through them and crimping eyes in them. Then used two screws in my rub rail and attached the release to the boat that way. Works great!
Mono does creep worse. The glass eye system is simpler. Parachute cord works great and comes in different colors. Although I never understood the need for 2 colors. May put a colored piece of tape on the bungee instead if needed?
Running the pulley from the last eye bolt for short & long rigger halyards. Will diffidently need hal locks because you can move the rigger lines with 2 fingers, no friction to speak of. Started years ago with mono and no pulleys; it was difficult with slimed hands to move the rigger halyards. Harken has been making blocks for the sailing industry for years and their stuff is built to last, but not inexpensive. I don't have any pictures showing the blocks & hal locks, but if I go down to the boat this weekend will snap a few pictures.
Dug up a picture, but not much detail.
__________________ 2006 Regulator 29FS Yam F250s
Last edited by Regulator29; 03-01-2010 at 10:50 PM.
Reason: added photo
Mono does creep worse. The glass eye system is simpler. Parachute cord works great and comes in different colors. Although I never understood the need for 2 colors. May put a colored piece of tape on the bungee instead if needed?
color helps the inexperience crew grab the right halyard, colors seem to make more sense then long or short and middle if you are triple rigged, besides it looks cool
Regulator29,
Thanks for the picture. I was guessing that's where they would go. Cuz I'm smart like that but wondering...How did you attach them.
This whole time I've been reading about the colored lines I was thinking, how nice it will be not yelling at he crew which rod is long and short. .
I'm going with your set up, any suggestions where to purchase from? I have found the parts on the net but was wondering if there is a good fisherman choice to purchase from.
My Harkens have an axle at the swivel/shackle which allows you to attach through the eye bolt. I found these at West marine in the sailing dept about $25 each. I also have barrel swivels attached above and below my Rupp knock-outs that are attached with Owner 80# (?) split rings, this has completely eliminated any halyard twist. Come on spring!!!!
Good fishing,
Tony
see these,sail boat braided , halocks and pulleys from the ring eyes.First had mono , switched to the sailboat line 10 times easier and no memory.The halocks are pulleys on a bungy with built in "brakes" on the wheels.You push the brake lever to "pinch the lines to the pulley wheel and that locks the line and prevents creeping.The bungy helps with basic tensioning.
__________________ NO REGRETS GRADY WHITE 306 BIMINI,with hard top Rupp Radials Smith Carbon Fiber Outrigger 15ft poles-- 2007 SUZUKI 225 4 STROKES 16x18.5 x3 suzuki propps.5750 RPM AT 44 MPH (GPS MEASURED)HDS-10/P79 IN HULL DUCER Bennett tabs..
Last edited by 1NO REGRETS; 03-28-2010 at 11:05 AM.
Can someone explain how the hal locks work? I know they are supposed to keep the tension, but what do they actually do to accomplish that????
Yes they absolutely work, there is a jam lever (best description I could come up with - with out coffee) that compress halyard against rubber pulley. You control halyard tension by the amount of force at the stopper above release against pulley/eye bolt/glass ring you have at the point you lock down the hal lock.
Here is another question/comment. I notice that you terminate your riggers on your gunnel. I have always terminated mine on the t top, but hated having to get up on gunnel to deploy. Once deployed I terminate just under t top on the t top structure. Thought has always been that terminating on gunnel would cause lines to be in the way if fighting a fish? Does it not get in your way?
Here is another question/comment. I notice that you terminate your riggers on your gunnel. I have always terminated mine on the t top, but hated having to get up on gunnel to deploy. Once deployed I terminate just under t top on the t top structure. Thought has always been that terminating on gunnel would cause lines to be in the way if fighting a fish? Does it not get in your way?
MScontender now MSyellowfin
I would prefer not to have my hal locks terminate on the gunnels too, on my 23 I had them terminating on the T-Top supports next to the CC. This was not an option on my 29, so it either on the gunnels or on top of the T-Top. It has not been an issue for trolling an landing fish, having people climbing on the gunnels to work the halyards was not a suitable option for me, especially since my kids like to fish with me and keeping them in the cockpit is a requirement.
Hal Locks, Harken Micro Blocks off the tip, Aftco OR-1 Roller Trollers and Black Dacron. That setup has never failed for me.
Mine is similar - I have 24' Lee's and run two lines - HalLoks, Harken blocks off the end and mid positions and Dacron Blue and Red so I can tell them apart.
Yes they absolutely work, there is a jam lever (best description I could come up with - with out coffee) that compress halyard against rubber pulley. You control halyard tension by the amount of force at the stopper above release against pulley/eye bolt/glass ring you have at the point you lock down the hal lock.
Got it, so I run the clip with stopper all the way to the eye and the haylock keeps it place. So a key component for the haylock to work properly is the stopper above the release clip??? I think I got it.
Re-rigging my out riggers and center rigger 
It's seems to me the the reason for needing the locks is because the line is creeping. I currently don't have an issue with lines creeping because I keep my lines not tight but not loose either. So would the glass eye eliminates cost and extra parts to fail/ replace? I currently use the nylon line and plan to use the two color mono set up for sure. Maybe the momo creeps worse than nylon???? 
. 
-- 2007 SUZUKI 225 4 STROKES 16x18.5 x3 suzuki propps.5750 RPM AT 44 MPH (GPS MEASURED)
HDS-10/P79 IN HULL DUCER
Bennett tabs.. 
