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I was looking into a second pair of trolling rods and I saw some Stand up rods 30-80 with Turbo guides. How important is it to have a stripper guide and roller tip top? Will a stand up rod with Turbo guides comprimise the line over time? THanks
I think you are fine with turbos on line up to about 50lb mono. With technology where it is today, conventional guides will get the job done. They are much better at dispersing the heat than they were just 10 and 20 years ago.
When you start getting into the 80lb class, then I would recommend rollers. If you have the money, rollers are never a bad idea in any line class for heavier gear.
If youyr trolling them, and troll lures over a few onces that produce drag, such as spreader bars, then you will want atleast a roller stripper to reduce wear on the lines during trolling, that line sits in one spot all day which isn't good, if they were just chunking rods you would be fine. You do not need full roller guides, just the top one. I'd recommend Kevin Bogan rods, they run about $225-250 a piece depending on how fancy you order them. Takes maybe 4-8 weeks depending on how busy he is and time of year. Well worth the extra few bucks IMHO and they are not far off in price from cheaper store bought rods and they are much better quality with aluminum butts that screw off for storage and transporting, a roller tip and good quality fuji guides. I own six SU50 rods and 2 SUR50 rods, they are 50-100lb class rods in 6', but he made my custom at 5'9" and I love them. If you pay with cash and buy 4 or more he usually gives a discount as well. Check out http://kevinbogans.com/fish_poison_offshore_standup.php
1. How are you going to set the rods up? 30lbs, 50lbs, ...? What reels? What line?
2. What fish are you going to target? Blue Marlin and tuna? or Dolphin, White Marlin, and sailfish.
If you're going to target large marlin and tuna that can run off a ton of line and generate a lot of friction, get roller guides. If you plan on targeting the latter (sails, dolphin, ...) stick with the conventional guides.
One of the biggest problems with roller guides is maintenance (lack of). When they don't roll they are probably worse than conventional guides on line. How many times have you fished with someone and found the rollers don't roll?? It really takes at least yearly or maybe every 6 months individual maintenance of the rollers to keep them working well. With 6 rods with all rollers are fished you got a job of rolling each with a piece of cord to keep it free and oiling or lubing them. Its one of my off season jobs but i'm still amazed how they can work one trip then freeze up the next. I agree that for smaller tackle a roller tip and ? maybe a stripper roller is all thats needed. With the 80's its all roller and those big rollers are easier to maintain. Keep it simple and in good working order.
Grady , I'm with you on Kevin Bogans rods have a tremendous selection he has made for me over the years. Made a wreck stick for my youngest with the hottest of colors ,it seems to glow under the lights.
Tabasco try removing the roller guides cleaning the thoroughly and reinstalling them with some drag grease on the shaft , It will solve you problem for a long long time
I would get roller guides at least for the tip. If you have regular tips you can rest assured that an in-experienced angler will crank a swivel into the tip and pop or crack the insert. Just ask me how I know. I changed them out and put the all metal aftco tips on. They can take much more abuse.
A previous poster alluded to damage to line from going through the tip. Smaller line diameters can bend over conventional tips. Heavy line diameters bent over a thin conventional tip can chafe the line, especially when the drag gets high. Rollers help to reduce friction, but I think the larger diameter from the roller makes a big difference.
Personally, I use conventional tips for less than 40 lb mono. Heavier mono I prefer rollers.
As for lube, I used waxy lubes but it seems like they gum up over time. Went back to using WD40 after every trip and they work like a champ.
A previous poster alluded to damage to line from going through the tip. Smaller line diameters can bend over conventional tips. Heavy line diameters bent over a thin conventional tip can chafe the line, especially when the drag gets high. Rollers help to reduce friction, but I think the larger diameter from the roller makes a big difference.
Personally, I use conventional tips for less than 40 lb mono.* Heavier mono I prefer rollers.
As for lube, I used waxy lubes but it seems like they gum up over time. Went back to using WD40 after every trip and they work like a champ.
Just thought I would throw this in there, but WD40 is NOT a lubricant. Infact, it eats away at lubricants and will actually do more harm than good in things that need lubrication. However, in terms of destroying rust and corrosion, it does a GREAT job. Therefore, using them on your roller guides is indeed a good idea. If you want to, AFTER using WD40 and letting it dry, you can shoot some lubricants in there as well. Whatever works for you. Just don't go using the WD40 inside of your reels to lubricate, bc it will do more damage than good. Go with corrosion X inside.
Couldnt hurt, it is the best of both worlds. Destroys corrosion and lubricates all at the same time. Then you might not need it nearly as often. It is what I use for what it's worth...
A previous poster alluded to damage to line from going through the tip. Smaller line diameters can bend over conventional tips. Heavy line diameters bent over a thin conventional tip can chafe the line, especially when the drag gets high. Rollers help to reduce friction, but I think the larger diameter from the roller makes a big difference.
Personally, I use conventional tips for less than 40 lb mono.* Heavier mono I prefer rollers.
As for lube, I used waxy lubes but it seems like they gum up over time. Went back to using WD40 after every trip and they work like a champ.
Just thought I would throw this in there, but WD40 is NOT a lubricant. Infact, it eats away at lubricants and will actually do more harm than good in things that need lubrication. However, in terms of destroying rust and corrosion, it does a GREAT job. Therefore, using them on your roller guides is indeed a good idea. If you want to, AFTER using WD40 and letting it dry, you can shoot some lubricants in there as well. Whatever works for you. Just don't go using the WD40 inside of your reels to lubricate, bc it will do more damage than good. Go with corrosion X inside.
Wrong. WD-40 is a lubricant, is cheap and easy to use. From their main page:
THE FIVE BASIC FUNCTIONS:
LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and hold firmly to all moving parts.
CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape, stickers, and excess bonding material.
PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.
PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.
DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.
If you read further on, they also state, "WD-40's unique ingredients enable it to clean/degrease,... protect metal and provide light lubrication." I'm telling you, if you put this stuff in your reels or anywhere there is existing grease, it will strip it all out and you will be left with totally inferior lubrication. Lubrication is NOT wd40s main function at all. Maybe light lubrication, but it is not nearly the same as grease. Now I did say that it is fine for roller guides, so long as you do it often, but You are entitled to your opinion. Personally I wouldn't come anywhere close to the inside of my reels with that stuff!
Don't get me wrong, WD40 is GREAT stuff. But it is really not meant to be used specifically as a lubricant despite what they may say.
I second Corrosion X over WD40 for corrosion prevention and lubrication. It is awesome stuff and I used it on my rollers this spring and have not had to reapply due to a stuck roller.
Stand up rods Guides or roller? 
