Quote:
auguste - 3/29/2007 5:11 AM Finnseeker
The info put forward by Finnseeker is good for catch and release and just about everyone here uses circle hooks when billfish fishing
Maybe it was not clear at the start but we are addressing a short bite issue we face when tuna fishing . . . this thread is a follow-up from 3 other threads . . . so maybe you missed that . . . we mostly want to keep the tuna . . . but that is not a problem
Problem is that in the three cases you presented the hook is on the head of the bait so that technique can not be used with Islanders and sea witches, our main approach for fishing tuna Do you have an option where a circle hook can be placed near the rear of the bait? |
Auguste,
Correct I had not seen all the other threads at all.
Circle hooks as you know were specifically designed for tuna. Futhermore yes the illustrations I presented were all in the head and been successful for myself billfishing, tuna etc. Below you will find some information and methods for you on tuna and tuna rigging that works for short bite problems.
I use a extra long shank Owner hook # 5192 and the hook sits right back and in some cases past the anus. ( depending on the size of your ballhoo) I have attached a picture for you to see.)
Sea Witches, Jap Feathers, Tuna Clones or Islanders can be modified by drilling out the inside hole so that they can be slide right down over the top leader eye wrap. I drill these lures to 1/8”. This gives you much greater latitude in your rigging. The other tip is the speed will result in getting short bit. I do not know your spread or how you running these, so many variables that with a little more info I could suggest some positions to try and variations for a better bite. Im running 6-9 depending on sea conditions and lure type or spread.
Ballyhoo variation for tuna: ( use the longer shank hooks as well not like the illustration)
Ballyhoo Variation
A: Instead of forming a snap after completing the haywire, twist off the tag end. Add a 12-inch length of 20-pound-test Monel wire to the hook.
B: Use a sharp knife to slice down the ballyhoo’s backbone, breaking it up in the process.
C: Insert both hooks into the groove you’ve just carved into the back of the ballyhoo. Make sure both hooks are firmly imbedded and do not bind the bait.
D: Secure the ballyhoo by running the soft wire through its eyes and then firmly wrapping it down around the hook shank and bait’s head. (Note: hook shank and leader must be centered on the top of the bait’s head). Complete the job by taking a few tight wraps around the main leader.