Gluing ceramic rod guide?

[Gringo]

One of the ceramic rod guide rings just popped out of wife's rod. The metal frame hoop is broken open, but I can bend it so it holds itself shut in a circle.

Can anyone recommend the best adhesive for trying to glue the ceramic ring back inside the metal circle? or is the whole rod toast? I know the basics of replacing the entire guide, but have never done it and dont have the materials. Need some super shrink tubing or something...

[Jack Hexter]

There is no glue that will hold the ring into a broken guide. Much easier to replace the whole guide and not expensive. Generally less then $10 including the cost of the guide for normal guides, higher for SiC or higher priced guides. Take it to your local tackle shop and ask if they do it or have someone who does rod repair for them.

[fishn'bruis]

Clear fingernail polish works for me (acrylic) may have to replace it every so often, 3-4 months usually

[Gringo]

Thanks, Jack, but theres one tackle shop in the entire country, and they would just try to sell me a new rod. You did give me an idea, though. I can find plenty broken rods that still have good guides on them. Perhaps I could cut one off and salvage it.

First,though, I am going to try the fingernail polish idea.

That stuff also is an excellent substitute for LocTite, you know. Works just as good and its cheaper.

[lemaymiami]

Gringo, the advice you got about replacing that guide is right on the money... once that insert pops out it's done, nothing will glue it back. I've been building my own and repairing other guys gear for years now (long before those type of guides ever came to market...). Here are your choices. If the guide is not absolutely critical you can simply cut off the wraps (they're only thread with some finish and a single-edge razor blade is all you need, be careful not to nick the blank), remove the broken guide, and keep using the rod... Not ideal, but do-able. I've sorted out many a broken guide on the water in just that fashion. The next choice is to learn to do a simple thread wrap on whatever guide you replace it with... It's no different than whipping the end of a rope with thread... You set the new guide on the blank with narrow bands of masking tape, then wrap thread over until each foot is secured. Although a whip finish (using a loop of thread or light mono to pull the end of the thread back under the last 5 or 6 turns of thread) is the standard way to do it, 3 or 4 half hitches will give the same result. Once the guide is re-secured, touch the thread once or twice with super glue, then coat all of the thread with clear nail polish to complete the repair. If you can get your hands on a catalogue by Anglers Workshop, the Mudhole, or other outfit that supplies rod building parts - you'll find that they have the basic instructions to do just what I've described.... Good luck. It must be tough to be away from any supply source or repair source... the fishing's probably worth it, though.

[Gringo]

Thanks Bob. I do know how to whip a line, and do a whip finish. What kind of thread would you recommend, does it need to be something special like dacron, or could I use, for example, 30 lb. test kite string? I assume its got to be a braided or twisted thread, of someting fibrous that will absorb the nail polish?

thanks again for your help.

And you are right about the remoteness being a hassle some times. to live in a place like this full time takes patience, extreme flexibility, and a sense of humor. Otherwise it can cause huge frustration.

[lemaymiami]

Rod winding thread is just twisted nylon (Gudebrod makes the standard), the finer thread, size A, is commonly used for fly rods, light rods and as underwrapping on bigger rods, the heavier stuff, size C or D is usually used for the over wraps on heavier guides, etc. You can use almost any thread that won't break as you wind it on, if you don't care about appearance. I've even used 8 or 10lb mono... What's holds the guide in place is the number of turns... Wrap 10 or more turns around your finger and you'll get the idea. You don't have to wrap it with great tension, just enough to hold things where you want them. Remember that the lighter thread actually exerts more force since there's more turns... What keeps the wraps in place and protects them is the finish coat, any clear finish will do. The Sally Hansen's clear nail polish is a field staple both for emergency rod repairs and for a bit of finish on a fly or jig... By the way, when you wrap the guide in place you can actually move it a bit to bring it into alignment with the guides that are there... Once you apply any finish, it's not going to move unless exert enough force to bend the guide... good luck