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Old 03-24-2016, 04:17 PM   #21
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I have 3 pictures of my boat during the application of Buff Magic. I never used the product before and was very impressed. I used their rotary buffer and the process was very easy.

I can't seem to add them here but if you search buff magic under albums you can see them.
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Old 03-28-2016, 02:01 AM   #22
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Great question. With any wool pad, you need to "fluff" it first. Put the pad on the machine, set it at its lowest speed, and run the pad over a stiff brush or spur. This will remove all the loose fibers. Good luck!

Thank you sir!

To add a little something to this - not used for purposes intended. But I have a home bar - few coats of stain and polyurethane than I didn't want to re-sand and poly before the Easter holiday... Figured what the hell right?

Applied buff magic to it same as I would a boat hull... Brush on, wool pad, cross hatch, microfiber off - brought a shine and smoothness back like it was brand new. I even followed it with the pro polish - because why not?

Came out beautiful. Used it on the tap tower too - even if you're not going to use it on your boat... The product is multipurpose and works wonders where you would never think.
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Old 03-28-2016, 02:11 AM   #23
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Thank you sir!

To add a little something to this - not used for purposes intended. But I have a home bar - few coats of stain and polyurethane than I didn't want to re-sand and poly before the Easter holiday... Figured what the hell right?

Applied buff magic to it same as I would a boat hull... Brush on, wool pad, cross hatch, microfiber off - brought a shine and smoothness back like it was brand new. I even followed it with the pro polish - because why not?

Came out beautiful. Used it on the tap tower too - even if you're not going to use it on your boat... The product is multipurpose and works wonders where you would never think.
That's certainly a new one! We have had distillers use it for their kettles and vats. I use it on a number of metal fittings in the house. I even buff out the tub every year to eliminate staining.
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Old 04-03-2016, 11:11 AM   #24
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What exactly do I need? From the exact tools to pads to buff magic? Grady white hull that is not badly oxidized just want it to shine. I have a 7inch variable speed polisher/sander
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:57 AM   #25
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What exactly do I need? From the exact tools to pads to buff magic? Grady white hull that is not badly oxidized just want it to shine. I have a 7inch variable speed polisher/sander
Well if you already have a polisher, (rotary is my guess by the backing plate size) then you will need wool pads, Buff Magic, and some clean microfiber cloths to buff the excess product off after use. Additionally, I suggest waxing your Grady after using Buff Magic to protect the shine. I recommend Pro Polish, which you can apply by hand with a clean microfiber or with a "no-grit" foam pad. Based on your tool, I would recommend applying Pro Polish by hand.

Wash the boat, then use the polisher/wool pads to work in Buff Magic. Make sure to completely break down the chemical by working it in until it "flashes" or you can see a hazy shine in the area you are working. Then clean the area with the microfiber. Your surface should look shiny and new.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:42 AM   #26
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Default Buff Magic and Liquid Buff

Which is is more aggressive? What is the application methods for the buff liquid using a rotary polisher and an orbital polisher; RPMs and setting on the shurhold random orbital? Thanks
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Old 08-05-2016, 06:45 AM   #27
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Which is is more aggressive? What is the application methods for the buff liquid using a rotary polisher and an orbital polisher; RPMs and setting on the shurhold random orbital? Thanks
1. Which is more aggressive? To answer this, I need a comparison. For our products, Buff Magic is far more aggressive than Pro Polish, as Pro Polish is a pure wax with no true corrective ability.

2. When using Buff Liquid (how did you get ahold of that!?), spray it on the surface your looking to correct and simply start buffing with your polisher of choice. Work the pad back and forth in a slight overlap, similar to grid you would lay while mowing a lawn. Keep light pressure and let the pad do the work, not your muscles.

3.For a rotary tool, we recommend you work between 1800-2200 RPM's. For an orbital, it depends on the tool because the OPM's vary on throw size. In most variable speed Dual Action Polishers, a 4-5 on the speed setting (out of 6) is recommended. That holds true for both our Dual Action Polisher and the Dual Action Polisher PRO.
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:31 PM   #28
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I wet sand my corian countertops in the boat and then Buff Magic them and they come out like a mirror.

Love the BM.
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:50 AM   #29
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I wet sand my corian countertops in the boat and then Buff Magic them and they come out like a mirror.

Love the BM.
Happy to hear it.
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Old 08-16-2016, 05:26 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by CaptSamShurhold View Post
1. Which is more aggressive? To answer this, I need a comparison. For our products, Buff Magic is far more aggressive than Pro Polish, as Pro Polish is a pure wax with no true corrective ability.

2. When using Buff Liquid (how did you get ahold of that!?), spray it on the surface your looking to correct and simply start buffing with your polisher of choice. Work the pad back and forth in a slight overlap, similar to grid you would lay while mowing a lawn. Keep light pressure and let the pad do the work, not your muscles.

3.For a rotary tool, we recommend you work between 1800-2200 RPM's. For an orbital, it depends on the tool because the OPM's vary on throw size. In most variable speed Dual Action Polishers, a 4-5 on the speed setting (out of 6) is recommended. That holds true for both our Dual Action Polisher and the Dual Action Polisher PRO.


Which product is more aggressive; Buff Magic paste or Liquid Buff? Or are they about the same grit?
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Old 08-16-2016, 05:49 AM   #31
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They both remove P600-P800 scratches and finish roughly the same.
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Old 09-17-2016, 05:48 PM   #32
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I wet sand my corian countertops in the boat and then Buff Magic them and they come out like a mirror.

Love the BM.
Curious what grit(s) you wetsand with. I'm trying to pull out minor stainless rust from ss cup holders that is pretty embedded in my corian as well as some very light scratches. Tia!
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Old 09-17-2016, 07:53 PM   #33
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I start with 600 and see if that is enough to get the scratches out. If that doesn't do it I go to 400 then 600, 800 then buff magic.
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:20 AM   #34
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I start with 600 and see if that is enough to get the scratches out. If that doesn't do it I go to 400 then 600, 800 then buff magic.
If stealing this for my personal FAQ... good info!
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Old 09-04-2017, 01:18 PM   #35
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Default amazing results

Used Buff Magic to remove some scratches on my wellcraft. WOW see pics before & after

As this product marketing is mainly focused on oxidation I was not very sure I would see an improvement as my boat is only two years old with zero oxidation. I just wanted to remove a few scratches. I was wrong.. scratches are gone and the boat looks like new again.

Very easy to apply following its intructions, literally fool proof. Used Shurhold DA polisher at speed 3 for a few passes, then speed 5 on final pass, buff with microfiber towel and top it with pro polish and foam pad as recommended.
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Old 09-05-2017, 05:49 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by arrivillagao12 View Post
Used Buff Magic to remove some scratches on my wellcraft. WOW see pics before & after

As this product marketing is mainly focused on oxidation I was not very sure I would see an improvement as my boat is only two years old with zero oxidation. I just wanted to remove a few scratches. I was wrong.. scratches are gone and the boat looks like new again.

Very easy to apply following its intructions, literally fool proof. Used Shurhold DA polisher at speed 3 for a few passes, then speed 5 on final pass, buff with microfiber towel and top it with pro polish and foam pad as recommended.
Happy to hear you got good results!
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:23 PM   #37
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Capt. Sam,

I was scammed by my marina and one of their "approved" vendors on the compounding of the hull sides of my 1988 Sea Ray 390.

He mixed Nu Finish in with a well known buffing compound. I know this because I saw the bottles on the ground asked if that was what they used to do the final wax. He said no and that it was mixed in with the compound of a single stage buff. Basically I paid for compounding but got a glaze. It shined like new for about 3 weeks. After that I knew I'd been had and it was back to dullville again.

I'm going to haul the boat next month and DIY the hull sides correctly this time. I own a Dewalt Variable Speed Rotary and a Griots Random Action 6" Buffer. I'd like to purchase everything (Pads, Compound, Polish) from one source.

I've done my own boats for many years and have many of hours of experience with the rotary but always used automotive compounds in the past on smaller boats. Since the area I'm working on is so large I want to make sure I'm using the right materials for this job.

Looking forward to your recommendations.

Thanks, Ken
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:31 AM   #38
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Can magic buff and pro polish be used on engine cowlings
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:24 AM   #39
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Capt. Sam,

I was scammed by my marina and one of their "approved" vendors on the compounding of the hull sides of my 1988 Sea Ray 390.

He mixed Nu Finish in with a well known buffing compound. I know this because I saw the bottles on the ground asked if that was what they used to do the final wax. He said no and that it was mixed in with the compound of a single stage buff. Basically I paid for compounding but got a glaze. It shined like new for about 3 weeks. After that I knew I'd been had and it was back to dullville again.

I'm going to haul the boat next month and DIY the hull sides correctly this time. I own a Dewalt Variable Speed Rotary and a Griots Random Action 6" Buffer. I'd like to purchase everything (Pads, Compound, Polish) from one source.

I've done my own boats for many years and have many of hours of experience with the rotary but always used automotive compounds in the past on smaller boats. Since the area I'm working on is so large I want to make sure I'm using the right materials for this job.

Looking forward to your recommendations.

Thanks, Ken
Hey Ken,

I'm sorry to hear you had a bad experience with your detailer. Always a tough pill to swallow. It sounds like you've got the right tools, so let's divide the boat into two steps: Compounding and Waxing.

Compounding: You'll want to use the Rotary with our Wool Compounding Pad and don't be afraid to use more than one. As you know, working with clean pads that aren't loaded down with dead gelcoat and compound is important. The chemical you'll want is Buff Magic.

Always pick a test spot in the worst area of your gelcoat, a 2x2 section. You should test your method and process in this spot as a "proof of concept" for the rest of the boat. Start slower, around 1200 and ramp up to around 1800 as Buff Magic begins to break down. Most boats can be corrected in one pass, but rough ones may take two.

By the time your done, your boat should look as good as you want it to. Compounding is the correctional stage you should be happy with the appearance when your done. Again, always work with relatively clean pads

Waxing: Switch over to your DA and our Foam Polishing Pad and Pro Polish. This should go much faster as your simply laying on a layer of wax, not working it in aggressively. The pad can be more loaded with excess wax, so you shouldn't need as many. Once applied, buff of any excess with a clean microfiber towel and it should be "dullsville" no more for your SeaRay. Good luck, let me know if you have any specific questions
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:26 AM   #40
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Can magic buff and pro polish be used on engine cowlings
In short, yes but be careful. Buff Magic is fairly aggressive for the painted cowlings but can quickly remove oxidation and imperfections. I recommend working with a Dual Action tool to keep the heat down and protect the paint. Always try a test spot first in an inconspicuous area. Good luck!
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