Pics! Yamaha Water Pump Replacement F115

SIM · 10-30-2005, 10:33 AM

I get the question asked to me often how hard it is to replace a water pump on a Yamaha outboard. Answer is ......not that hard. I think with these pictures and description even the least bit mechanically inclined person could work through it.Its basically a boltunbolt repair. Most of theYamaha Outboards 2-4 stroke75hp and above have similar water pumps that are in these pictures. I will make changes to this thread from time to time to correct errorsomissions ect. Here we go..............

List of tools.[*]Metric socket set and Metric wrench set[*]Wire snippers[*]Drive Shaft spline grease[*]Small tie strap[*]Screw driver[*]Small hammer[*]Lithium Grease[*]Anti-seize compound[*]Device to hold gear case in upright position[/list]
1. Take thegear case off of engine.............Put the helms shifter handle into neutral position. Next there are a series of bolts that hold the gear case to the engine mid section on Yamaha outboards. They need to be removed. On a F115 there are six bolts that are visible and two that are not. Take the rubber grommet that is directly over the anode fin off and with a 12-13mm socket and short extension take off the bolt that holds on the anode plate.

2. Then with the anode plate removed, remove the bolt that is located in the cavity above where the anode plate was.

3. Next remove the 6 bolts that are on either side of the gear case. Note that when the last bolt is removed the gear case will dropas long as the drive shaft is not hung up or seized into the powerhead.

4. Now that the gear case should be coming off do not let it come completely off. After it drops a couple of inches the shift shaft and speedometer pitot tube fitting are exposed at the forward end.

5. With your wire cutters or snippers cut the flexible pitot speedo tube right above that fitting. Be careful it is plastic...you can usually feel it where it ends.

6. The gear case is now ready to fully come off. Find a place to work with it on.... preferably withthe gear casein the upright position. I use a padded vise and clamp it to the skeg tightly. Make sure the jaws have rags owels over it. A gear case holder would be best...but most DYI's are not going to have one. Here is a picture of the water pump "exposed".

7. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the impeller housing down. Lift off the impeller housing.

8. Pry off the SS round driveshaftcover pictured and slide off the white plastic split piece that is under neath it. There willbe three round thin waved(there shape)washers underneath thewhite plastic. Maintain the order of the wave washers. The outer and inner washers are the same. The middle washer is different. Then slide off the SS impeller cartridge to expose the actual rubber black water pump impeller. Slide the impeller up and off of the drive shaft. Note: the impeller to drive shaft clearance is very tight so if there is any debris it should be cleaned off. Lube the vertical drive shaft with a little bit of grease........ this aides in removing the impeller and sliding the new one back on

9. Next is to remove the half moon key. Screw driver, hammer, chisel, vise grips and hammer......I have even used a small propane torch to gently heat the drive shaft to get the two metals to expand a little. Last resort for sure. This can be the hardest part of the entire job.......or sometimes the key slides right out. Go figure.

10. Remove the rest of the water pump components. Base plate and gasket. Now you are ready for installing the new water pump components. [img]../images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif[/img]More info and pics to follow shortly.

Andy

HOTSPOT · 10-31-2005, 02:57 PM

Awesome job Andy, thanks a ton.

81 CC SEAOX 23' · 10-31-2005, 10:51 PM

Andy

Nice job. Great write up. Store them and build a page for your Andy’s Tips and Tricks.

I have the Yamaha 2 Plus 3 YES program and will not need you explanation until 2011

LOL

waynesworld · 11-02-2005, 08:19 AM

great post!!! thanks for the info. i will order the parts from you when i am ready.

Somethin-Fishey · 11-08-2005, 06:38 AM

Quote:

SteveBaz - 10/31/2005 10:51 PM

Andy

Nice job. Great write up. Store them and build a page for your Andy’s Tips and Tricks.

I have the Yamaha 2 Plus 3 YES program and will not need you explanation until 2011

LOL

Changing the water pump is maintenance YOU are required to perform even during warranty, it is not a covered item. It is like changing the oil.

GWcpa · 11-17-2005, 01:35 PM

Started to change my starboard impellor last night. Had the LU off in 20 minutes and 1 beer. Still have not gotten the key out. Brought the LU home with me today, will heat and grind to get it out. My punching and chiseling has made a mess out of it.

Everything else came apart easily.

Didn't help that is was working on it during a tornado warning when the front got to us last night. Temps went from 72 to 46 in 20 minutes. Beer 2 and 3 didn't help either.

Thanks for the write up SIM.

Rod H · 11-17-2005, 02:03 PM

Thank you so much Andy, the water pump is the only thing holding me back from doing my 100 hour maintenance myself. Thanks to your parts department the twenty hour was a snap.

FishOn162 · 11-22-2005, 05:59 PM

Couple of things if I may from my experience...

1. Instead of cutting the speedo tube you can also cut one of the two cable ties on the tube where visibile in photo 3. This is where the tube from the upper and lower connect. Once you get the cable tie cut pull the tube apart. This will keep you from having to hold the lower unit up when all the bolts are out to cut the tube as shown. Make sure you feed the tube back up during reassembly.

2. To hold the lower unit, I screwed two 30" or so long 2x4's to my workbench...with about 20" hanging out, parallel and seperated enough where the cav plate could rest on them.

3. The SS collar and white split washer can be a bear. I ended up cracking the white washer by prying. The trick here is the driveshaft tapers up at this point, simply prying up on the SS collar can cause the white cap to press up on the taper, in turn making it hold tighter to the SS collar. You need to hold the white collar down while prying up on the SS collar, and keep going around prying 360 degrees. Prying in one area did not work for me.

4. My half moon key was a BEAR. I tried to tap it out w/ a chisel and mangled the key. Had to grind it out. As mentioned I have heard light heat on the opposite side of the shaft from the key, I will try that next time.

Also, Andy is it necessary to replace that SS plate under the impeller each time the impeller is replaced? If not then the half moon key does not need to be removed.

SIM · 11-22-2005, 06:44 PM

Fish,

1. Great idea.........I just like doing things the hard way [img]../images/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]

2. Another great idea......... I have arather large vise on my rolling lower box and I use it along with padding'sto hold the gearcase for water pump replacements. When I work on taking one apart I have one of those fancysmancy gearcase holders that I clamp into the vise.

3. I never have to much trouble with those. I usually can pry up on the SS ring and go around in a circle and it comes off. Wonder if saltwater use makes them harder to remove.

4. Half moon key is a mo fo pain in the a$$...sometimes. I wish they used the Mercury style of keyway. They use a flat key that sits in a recessed part of the drive shaft........its kind of hard to explain but when the impeller is removed it falls out.

5. I would replace it. Run your hand over the face of a used one. That surface is as important and the SS impeller housing that the blades ride on. Yes.......you are going to have to remove that key [img]../images/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]

Andy

paxfish · 12-07-2005, 01:03 PM

Two other items to mention for us shade-tree guys:

1) When you're putting the pump housing back on, the bloody o-ring will continually fall out. I used a drop of Krazy Glue at each corner to hold it. I can see that Yamaha uses some kind of adhesive when it's new, but the manual doesn't specify what that might be.

2) When you're raising the lower unit, you need about 2" of clearance to reconnect the speedo tube. I pre strung a piece of 1/4 line down through the rearmost bolt hole through the trim tab hole. When you get the LU to within 2" of home, you can secure the line to hold the lu and connect the speedo tube (2 hands needed).

SIM · 12-07-2005, 04:49 PM

Great idea's Paxfish.

On those O-rings we use a little bit of brush on adhesive.......which we call elephant snot. You can imagine what it looks like.

I have the water pump install photo's ready to upload. I just have to finish this thread [img]../images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif[/img].

Andy

Hroonk · 01-30-2006, 11:03 AM

Great post! Any update for installing the new pump?

TG_190 · 02-02-2006, 08:40 AM

Hey Andy,

Thanks for this thread, though the links to the pics are not working for me at this time.

Also, Thanks for the parts order. I received it last night, and after checking out the list and contents seems to be rite. Thank you for your help.

I am looking forward to the updates to the install part that you make to this thread. If I find anything new or can help your procedure, I will document and let you know. I would like to have the benefit of the complete procedure before starting, but I've seen it done once before....

TG_190

hitchdale · 03-26-2006, 10:40 AM

Has the install part of this process ever been posted?

Enough Already · 03-31-2006, 02:09 PM

Hey Andy - on the pitot tube that gets snipped:

- do I have that on a 2001 225 OX66?
- if so, what is re-install procedure? Is the replacement tube a Yamaha part or just a piece of tubing with a small tie wrap?

EdDiNapoli · 10-31-2006, 10:38 PM

Andy,
Have you had time to show the installation pictures for the water pump?
Ed

su2root · 11-02-2006, 09:21 PM

Great Information... I wish I had this information this summer. The job was easy, but I never got the key out, so I left it in... I put 10 hours on it an every thing seems fine. Again, great job Andy...

turtle2 · 11-26-2006, 08:37 PM

Hello

I really liked your article & pictures on installing a water pump for Yamaha F-115

I have a 6 horse Yamaha that needs, I think a new impeller. I put the flusher on the motor and get some water to come out of the indicator hole,but when I run it in a barrel, I get nothing at all.Lower end and engine gets real hot.Was wondering if you could help or have some suggestions

Was wondering if the bigger engine impeller install is about the same in the smaller engines

Thank you, Sim
Don

SIM · 11-27-2006, 01:27 PM

Don,

All water pumps on outboards basically work in the same fashion. Just smaller on the 6hp. What year is the 6hp? If it is an older engine then I would suggest that it most likely needs to be replaced. Usually you can figure on replacing them every 2-3 season on an engine like that.

A Yamaha service manual helps too.

Andy

turtle2 · 11-27-2006, 07:18 PM

Thank you Andy, very much. The year of the motor is a 2000.I don't know the history of the motor,but I have had it for about 3 years,so it is probably time for it to be changed.Thank you for the info on the manual

The only other question was with that small engine will it have that flexable speedo tube you were talking about,that you have to snip. Is that the tube that supplies the water to the water pump indicator hole,or is that something to do with a speedomiter.If you snip the tube do you have enough to reuse it or will I have to get another one

Thanks a lot for you help

Don