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Old 06-08-2013, 09:30 AM
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Default Carling Contura Rocker Switches Explained

There is a lot of confusion out there about how the Carling line of rocker switches work. I thought I'd start a thread here with some explanations to help some folks out. These rocker switches are very very common on boats... host all the major boat manufacturers are using the Carling V-series line.

Carling V-Series switches are described by a full 14 unit part number, which get’s quite confusing. Luckily, most vendors can get the switch you need with only the first 4 digits (including us!).

1st digit – V-series always starts with a “V”

2nd digit – The function type, describes if you want an ON-OFF, (ON)-OFF, ON-OFF-ON, etc. The “(ON)” with parentheses around it is a pretty standard way to describe a momentary function (like a horn).

3rd digit – The switch rating… typically for marine use is a “D” for 20A, 12Vdc. Note, the actual switch mechanism can typically be used at higher voltages (even 120Vac), but the lamp is the limiting factor.

4th digit – The terminal and barrier style, typically a .250” TAB for a quick disconnect connector. For .250 TAB, you should see a 1, 2, A, B, J or K. The barriers are little pieces of plastic that separate the terminals… I typically recommend no barriers if you use insulated connectors.

Here is the full part number spec sheet from Carling:

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Old 06-08-2013, 09:41 AM
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Default Carling switch body vs Actuator

Many people have questions about the terms we use when discussing New Wire Marine’s line of labeled Carling Contura V-series Rocker Switches... So here’s an overview of this great switch:

Carling Technologies created a rocker switch called “contura” and it quickly became the go-to rocker switch for many industries including marine use. Several other brands now manufacture contura style switches as well (all are pretty much interchangeable with each other), but nearly all major boat manufacturers now use this style switch.

These little guys come in many combinations including different actuators styles, poles, throws, lighting options, lighting type, voltage rating, terminal style, barrier style, etc.

The switch has two parts a Switch Body, and an Actuator (shown below). The actuator snaps onto the body to create an entire switch combo. All V-series contura actuators are interchangeable with all switch bodies.

The Carling switch body:


The Carling switch actuator:



The actuator can pop off easily with a tool like this, or if you pull it pretty hard it will snap off as well… I wouldn’t do this too many times though or risk breaking the latch, especially with an older switch.

Carling also makes a line of snap together mounting panels what are surprisingly high quality, and extremely low cost. Without a CNC machine to accurately cut the holes is nearly impossible without these mounting panels. They provide a larger flange so you don't have to be so precise.

We have all these parts in stock on our website.
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:50 AM
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Default Carling Contura V1D1 Single Pole Single Throw switch - Diagram Included

This is the first installment of a series of posts on how to wire up New Wire Marine’s line of Marine related V-Series Contura Rocker Switches.

Let’s start off with a simple one… Carling’s ON-OFF V1D1 model. This is a simple ON-OFF switch with a negative for the return current for the light bulb.

Here is what the switch looks like:



You can see the bulb in the front (will be covered up with the actuator), and the 0.250” quick disconnect terminals on the back.

Carling uses the terminal numbering show here:



1-3 is on the left, 4-6 is on the right, and 7 and 8 are specialty terminals at the top. In this carling V-series switch (and all others), all the terminal locations are numbered even if they are not used in this particular switch model... as you can see there are only 3 terminals on this one.

Here is a graphical way to look at it:



Power comes into terminal 2, and goes out of terminal 3 (the switch leg). The switch leg is hot if the switch is ON, and not when the switch is OFF. The negative for the light uses terminal 7.

Here is a wiring diagram of how the internal switching and lamp wiring is connected.



Power feeds the bulb from terminal 3. If you think about this for a moment, you realize that the switch could be wired up differently… if you put the + input on pin 3, then the light would always be ON and pin 2 could become the switch leg. Additionally, if you had a load with an alternate input (like a bilge pump with a float switch), that input would feed back up the switch leg into pin 3 and illuminate the light, even if the switch is OFF. This is really neat for a bilge because you can tell (via the lamp) when your float switch is making your bilge pump run… cool stuff!

New Wire Marine carries all the parts you need to make this work, and a lot more!
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:17 AM
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Default Carling Contura Wiring Diagram

Here's a nice quick reference guide for wiring all our switches. This pin-out diagram shows 4 of the most common rocker switch styles used on boats.

They can be found here as rocker switch bodies only: http://shop.newwiremarine.com/Rocker...Bodies_c36.htm

Here's the actuators that go on them: http://shop.newwiremarine.com/Contur...uators_c34.htm

And here's the full rocker switch with actuator combo: http://shop.newwiremarine.com/Marine...witches-SW.htm

Use the drop down menu on that page to select the label you want for each switch.

And the wiring diagram for (most) of them:

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Old 07-24-2013, 12:36 PM
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Default

thanks for posting this, I found it incredibly helpful.

is the negative for the indication lamp only? thus, if i dont care about the indication, can I leave it disconnected?
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:22 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bdaalex View Post
thanks for posting this, I found it incredibly helpful.
No problem... glad it helped, we really get a lot of questions about these switches because they are SO common on boats, and a just about as commonly folks have messed around with the wiring, then sold the boat and the new owner is trying to fix the mess.

When I get a chance, I'm going to make a few more detailed explanations about the more complicated but still common switch types.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bdaalex View Post
is the negative for the indication lamp only? thus, if i dont care about the indication, can I leave it disconnected?
On the vast majority of switches the negative is for the lamp only, yes. It does not carry the load current of the device... just about 70mA (0.07A) that the light pulls when on.

So if you don't care if the light works or not, then sure, you could just leave the negative disconnected and the switch will just open and close the circuit like any typical switch.

The negative is on pin 7 (top right) on these Carling V-Series rocker switches.

Thanks for asking and feel free to post questions others might also have right here, or start a new thread on my vendor forum at any time.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:54 AM
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Default Did you know?

As you may have noticed by the part number lookup, Carling has thousands of possible combinations of functions and lights and positions of rocker switches available. But did you know they are not ALL necessarily available?

Each batch of switches are is custom ordered from Carling by distributors and manufacturers, for a specific project or for inventory to sell. So unless an order is place for that specific type, it's possible there is literally none of that type in the marketplace for sale.

A common ON-OFF lighted rocker switch for instance is of course, always out there... but if you're looking for a 32Vdc Double Pole Double Throw ON-ON-OFF with a green independent light on the top, and a red dependent light on the bottom, and they must be LEDs, and one circuit is one in ON position A, and both are ON in position B, and it must have guards on the back, etc, etc... it's probably not going to be out there... and if it happens to be, can't be had for less than $50 each or what have you.

For most it's no big deal b/c we carry all the typical boating rocker switches, so don't worry. Any questions, shoot us a contact request on the website at newwiremarine.com

thanks!
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:11 PM
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Default Switch question

Okay, I will test you out here, heh!

I have a VED1A60B-00000-000 which is a SPTT. 12v 20A supposedly on-on-on.

I need to power the switch with 1 line in and 3 separate loads out. This is for a fan unit that has high, medium and low speeds, with switched power from an adjacent SPST. (This way I can kill the power to the entire unit)

In reading the pin out diagrams, I am not sure how to make this a SPTT, as 12v is required on both sides, and no way to isolate 3 loads irrespective of each other.

Jumpers perhaps? I just can't picture how to achieve that.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated!

Steven

Last edited by 67Steven; 10-13-2013 at 09:19 PM. Reason: syntax incorrect
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:31 PM
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Default Disregard

Never mind, I figured it out.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:07 PM
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Default

Thanks for this thread, it's a great help!

Are these / can these be backlit? Ie illuminated to show what the specific switch turns on and off ? I know they light up when on but I'm tired of fumbling for the correct switch at night.

Thanks!
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:35 AM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dadriva View Post
Thanks for this thread, it's a great help!

Are these / can these be backlit? Ie illuminated to show what the specific switch turns on and off ? I know they light up when on but I'm tired of fumbling for the correct switch at night.

Thanks!
They do make (and we do carry) independent lamp rocker switches, which means there are two lights, the top can be triggered by an external signal (like nav lights, or panel lights), and the bottom light is dependent, meaning it is only on when the switch is on.

The issue with using this switch type with a regular, printed switch is that in the real world the top backlight washes out the text printed onto the switch, making it unreadable anyway.

Sooo... what we've done for folks wanting readability at night is gone to custom engraved actuators. This involves an opaque material everywhere but the engraving, so at night the light shines through stunningly, and in the daytime you can read it just as well.

We've got a whole thread on these custom engraved actuators here: http://www.thehulltruth.com/new-wire...hoto-here.html

If you have rocker switches now with only one (dependent) lamp, then you'll need to replace the switches as well as the actuators to get the backlight functionality to work.

To get a quote on having this done go to our website (newwiremarine.com) and use the contact us form to send me an email.

Thanks for asking!
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:01 AM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Steven View Post
Okay, I will test you out here, heh!

I have a VED1A60B-00000-000 which is a SPTT. 12v 20A supposedly on-on-on.

I need to power the switch with 1 line in and 3 separate loads out. This is for a fan unit that has high, medium and low speeds, with switched power from an adjacent SPST. (This way I can kill the power to the entire unit)

In reading the pin out diagrams, I am not sure how to make this a SPTT, as 12v is required on both sides, and no way to isolate 3 loads irrespective of each other.

Jumpers perhaps? I just can't picture how to achieve that.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated!

Steven
That is a unique one. Key here is the second character: "E", so using the chart way up top it has a note than an external jumper is between 4 and 2, power comes into 5, and out of 6, 3 and 1... the way I read it right quick anyway.

I know you already figure it out, but maybe for other folks looking at this thread that will help... good luck all!
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:49 PM
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Default

thanks for posting this, I found it incredibly helpful.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:54 AM
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Default The Carling Contura V-Series ON-OFF Independent Lamp

There is a distinct difference between our Carling V-series standard switch, and the independent lamp version.

While the standard ON-OFF previously posted above, has only one light (at the top) that comes on when the switch is ON only... the independent lamp switch (V1D1-G66B) has two lamps:

1) one (at the bottom) that illuminates when the switch is ON
2) one (at the top) that illuminates via an external trigger signal.

The allows some really neat features like hooking up the external trigger (pin 8 as seen below) to your boat's nav light circuit, to illuminate at night, while maintaining the indicator light at the bottom.

This is - by far - the most common way we do our custom backlit switches.

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Old 01-21-2014, 07:44 PM
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Default

OK here is what I am looking for! On Off On that can be used for bilge pump man/off/auto independent light on the auto side that will illuminate when pump comes on with the float switch???? What do you have?
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyna58 View Post
OK here is what I am looking for! On Off On that can be used for bilge pump man/off/auto independent light on the auto side that will illuminate when pump comes on with the float switch???? What do you have?
Hello! I need to buy a couple switches and several actuators here!
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyna58 View Post
Hello! I need to buy a couple switches and several actuators here!
sorry I didnt notice this post until now... this should do that for you: http://newwiremarine.com/product/car...n-off-on-dsdt/

Can use half the switch for current switching and use the second side to control the lights as indicators.

As always, any questions, best way to reach me is email: esteele@newwiremarine.com

thanks!
-Eric
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:52 AM
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Default

I sent you 2 messages about engraved actuators through your "contact us" but received no answers.
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AQUA 1 View Post
I sent you 2 messages about engraved actuators through your "contact us" but received no answers.
Been catching up a bit from the ice storms down here, but I've now responded to all contact requests... don't know your name so I can't know for sure, but if you didnt get a response feel free to email me directly at esteele@newwiremarine.com, or call 843 501-0055.

thanks!
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:04 PM
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Default

Hi,

Thanks for the very nice thread. I will appreciate your help on this. I have a push on-off-push on switch on my boat toilet. Pushing up flushes the toilet and pushing doing activates the pump of the holding tank. I am now installing a new holding tank with level sensor. The level sensor triggers when the holding tank is 50% full and I wanna connect it with the switch so when the sensor triggers the light of the switch to turn on. Can you please tell me on which terminals I should connect the two wires? Sensor has two wires a brown/white and a brown. Instructions says that brown/white goes to battery + and brown goes to light indicator plus terminal. So I guess I will have to connect the brown/white to my battery plus and run a wire from my battery negative to the switch. Where should I connect the brown wire coming from the sensor and where the one coming from battery?

Thank you in advance.
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