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Random Quote: I know I fish too much so from now on I will only fish on days ending with Y
I just installed a bunch of electronics on my boat and removed the old.
I have also replaced the cabin's cockpit light light's (5 inch round perko dome light) . Just one of those regular bulbs that are similar to auto lights. Two nipples on the bottom.
The fuse panel consists of 4 fuses. A separate fuse for the Icom 402 and 502, the radar and the cabin light.
The GPS and FF are on a separate panel.
So back to the 4 fuse panel.
When I push the cabin switch, the FF turns on and off and the fuse for the cabin blows.
The light's schematic diagram indicated that it was not polarity sensitive.
Could I have wired the light wrong?
I put three different fuses in it. Each time the fuse went , the light was either on or off, depending where I left it when clicking the push button prior to the fuse blowing. Happy clicker here.
So, I could have the cabin light on, along with everything else and it worked fine. Had 12 volts at all points on the fuse panel. Engines off, battery only.
When I pushed the light button, the fuse would blow and the 600 would go off and on.
I assume that the 600 was reacting to a short in the system.
You thoughts?
Like I said, I think it may be the wiring of the switch as it only happenes when I push it.
I really hate to have to clean all the silicone off and redo what is done.
But I need the problem fixed so if that's what the THT thinks I'll do it.
I had started with a 7 1/2 fuse, the went to a 10, then a 15 twice.....
It sounds like the second fuse panel is fed from the first one (The GPS and FF are on a separate panel. When I push the cabin switch, the FF turns on and off and the fuse for the cabin blows.) If so, you are probably overloading the circuit & blowing the fuse.
Blowing 15A fuses does give me the impression that you have a short circuit. Additionally the one fuse for the cabin light seems to be feeding the 2nd fuse block. The blocks should be fed independently. I am also assuming that everything is connected to only 1 battery.
My guess is I'm not smart enough to visualize the circuit as you described. What I do know is I would remove the bulb and check things out. Then remove other parts of the circuit, one at a time. If it's a single thing causing it you should find the problem just through isolation.
"When I push the cabin switch, the FF turns on and off and the fuse for the cabin blows."
Somehow that switch is shorting to the FF(wire) switch and it blows. The reason it blows is that it, somehow, is hooked up to the fish finder also. Are the wires to the FF and the light somehow touching each other (bare wire)? In that the load is greater than 15 Amps it makes me think somewhere the wire is shorting out. Your lucky you have a fuse or you'd have a fire. Get a multimeter with a continuity test. Run a completely new wire to the panel. The problem is there someplace. Keep us posted. In general, your wiring sounds correct. Tough to be sure.
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Boston Whaler, "MUMBLER", 24 Outrage, twin 175 HP Evinrude Ocean Pros
Sounds like a problem with the way you wired up the switch...most switches are poorly documented to begin with and few show the internal workings...probably shorting your battery out somewhere to continually blow 15A fuses...
Two batteries through two switches. From batteries to main fuse panel at helm is one wire
The FF is wired to this fuse panel at the helm, as is the GPS and other accesories.
Another wire then runs to the hardtop and that powers the radar, two VHFs and the light.
Since nothing else is shorting out, I believe it has to be the switch. I'll pull it apart tomorrow and redo it.
Once I Pull the fixture , is there a way for me to check the current wiring of the light circuit w/o damaging the fixture?
For example, when I disconnect red and black wire from the fuse panel, is there a way to use a multimeter on it to determine if it work or where the problem is?
I've got a multimeter with a lot of functions I don't know how to use.
Is this were a continuity check comes in?
Should I switch it to the OHM marking on the meter and check for resistance?
How does that theory work and what am I looking for?
Would it be like this:
Connect meter to light's wires.
Push switch in to get resisitence. That would be a closed circuit.
Push switch again and the circuit should have no resistance and that is when the switch is in the open position.
Is that how a continuity check is done?
Also, there is a second set of unused wires in the overhead box that are connected directly to the number one battery.
I'd prefer not to use these as I like the option of turning everything off by two main switches in the battery box.
1. Make sure both main power wires (to helm & hardtop) are coming off the same battery. 2. Disconnect the fixture and hook it straight to 1 battery to see if it works. 3. Put the fixture back in and disconnect the lighting circuit from the fuse panel (black & red). Check with the voltmeter & confirm NO voltage (if you have voltage, that is a problem & fix it). Switch to OHM scale and check between black & red. Results should be: Switch OFF - no reading (infinite ohms). Switch ON - you will get a reading that indicates the resistance of the circuit (through the bulb filament).
Fuse keeps blowing 
