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I am having a helluva time with the electronics on my boat.
Everything works except the switch that controls all that are in my electronics box overhead. I am getting no power at all there.
I have pulled my switch panel off and have tested the connections, it seems I am getting power to the fuse before the switch but not from the switch.
I thought I found the problem when I took another positive wire off another switch and the indicator light came on but that was it, I now realize this positive lead is what goes to my buss bar/fuse block or what ever you call it in the electronics box.
Can I bypass the switch to see if this is my problem, I am thinking I can take the wire that goes from fuse to the switch and just put the wire there that runs to the fuse block in E box to see if this is my problem.
I am about as much an idiot as you can be when it comes to electronics but I do have a tester and do understand the basics somewhat.
Also I think this is tied to my trim tabs someway or another since I can not get them to work.
I can not see anything loose but keep in mind if you have ever looked at Sea Pro's wiring it leaves A LOT TO BE DESIRED, looks like something I did
To test the switch. You can take a multimeter and check for continuity with the switch in the on position. If you have continuity and all gear behind the switch is dark. Look to see if the ground bus the equipment is connected to is connected to the battery.
My rocker switches have indicator lights when they are on and this particular one does not come on but today I took another positive wire from the cigarette lighter and the light comes on then but still nothing to the electronics up top
I am going out with tester in a little bit to try some other options, got tired of being in direct sun and sweat pouring off of me the entire time while I was attempting to work it out.
I will post tonight what I find out, may take it to one of my buddies that is an electrical trouble shooter and let him figure it out, he owes me a couple of favors and told me whenever I need help let him know so this may be the best thing to do
I am more worried about F'ing something up than anthing
The presence of the light in the switch, depending on the type of light and how wired, can make simple continuity testing of the switch difficult. Your bypass wire idea is a good one. I would use some simple lamp cord, both sides twisted together if you are testing a fairly heavy wire, or any other appropriate scrap wire of sufficient length, run it directly from a battery plus to the positive electronics buss in the box on top. See what you get.
Am I reading you correctly that the switch you suspect is the switch which controls all power (on or off) going up to the electronics box?
As Office suggested, if your positive jumper test produces positive to the box, but still no functioning, then it's time to look at your ground. You can use that same test wire to test from the electronics box negative buss or connection point back to battery negative.
I understand your concern, but proceeding this way, and working carefully and thoughtfully, you have really very little chance of "F'ing something up." Good luck.
Glad you got it sorted, one way or another. I wonder if it could have been that ground wire you reconnected? Probably not since it still didn't work the first time you tried it in the shop. Well, cross fingers it keeps working with new switch.