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Old 03-26-2010, 08:46 AM
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Default How do I crimp lugs onto large Battery cable??

I installed a new battery cable which is a 2/0 cable. I ordered the cable a bit too long, and am shortening it by a couple feet.

I just bought a "Hammer" style lug crimp tool. You place the lug with wire inserted into it, and hit it with a hammer to crimp it. So the question is, how hard do I hit with the hammer, and do I hit it more than once..... ??

In other words, how does a rookie crimp 2/0 cable with a hammer style crimper?

Thanks for the help!!

Here is the crimper I have: http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Items/g...20Crimp%20Tool




And here is the Lug I'm installing(3/8" ring 2/0 lug): http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Items/g...Lug%203/8%20in

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Old 03-26-2010, 09:07 AM
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use a hydraulic press.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:11 AM
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Hit it pretty hard. Wiggle it. If it moves, hit it again.

It's better to use a heavy hammer if you have one. If you're on the boat, you will need something other than the boat's floor to put under the tool. The bigger, the better. A couple of short pieces of 2X6 lumber should do the trick.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwidman View Post
Hit it pretty hard. Wiggle it. If it moves, hit it again.
Now that sounds VERY familiar!!! To ensure I have this correct, please post some example pics in the Sandbar.

Thanks... I thought about the under support already. I should mention I will be heat shrinking it, so obviosuly I'll slide the shrink tube up the wire first. Just need recommendation on the "hit it part. Do I put the ring terminal into the cimp tool upside down or right side up, does it matter?

Wish I had a hydrolic press.... don't.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Birdman View Post
Now that sounds VERY familiar!!! To ensure I have this correct, please post some example pics in the Sandbar.

Thanks... I thought about the under support already. I should mention I will be heat shrinking it, so obviosuly I'll slide the shrink tube up the wire first. Just need recommendation on the "hit it part. Do I put the ring terminal into the cimp tool upside down or right side up, does it matter?

Wish I had a hydrolic press.... don't.
Put the flat side down.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:50 AM
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I once used a swaging tool that I had used for sailboat rigging. Made the prettiest connection youj can imagine.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...44&ci_sku=5657
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:52 AM
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Have a friend hold the crimper while you go at it with a sledgehamer. One good shot will do.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by robschonk View Post
I once used a swaging tool that I had used for sailboat rigging. Made the prettiest connection youj can imagine.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...44&ci_sku=5657
If you're really into this sort of thing, electricians use a hydraulic tool with dies for each size lug. That's the best way, but one would have to be doing this a lot to make up for the cost.

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Old 03-26-2010, 09:54 AM
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I will add, it does not hurt to add solder to the connection to promote good contact when using an Impact swaging tool. dip the cable in flux, slide on the connector, swage it, heat with a plumbers torch and add solder.
solder can be an issue with starting cables if the connector gets hot, it could melt the solder.
best way is with a Hex crimp tool though.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:55 AM
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Come on Birdman!! Use your teeth!!
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:16 AM
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Thanks guys.

TCM,
Vice!! I have a portable vice, hmmmm that's a good idea, I might try that out. I was smart enought to order a few extra lugs, so I can test this out on the wire I cut off, first. So I'll try a few techniques before the real deal.

robschonk,
Thanks... I'll look into that "swaging tool", looks cheap enough for only a few uses, and looks easy to use. I assume you just crank down the pressure using the bolts?

CME,
Thanks, yes, I intend to also do exactly that!! Have solder and my torch loaded in truck already. It's for my added house battery so should be no worries about the heat. My 20' parallel add on length if you recall from other thread, actually ended up only being 15' (took a shorcut with cable route). So that's why the cable cut. As you know, shorter is better!
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:18 AM
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Put the crimper under your car, get out the car jack and put it between the crinmper and the car...
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:27 AM
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Take it to someone who has the correct crimp-er. T&B, Greenly etc. Use No Ox in the connector and cable. Use adhesive heat shrink tubing over the connector.
The best shrink tubing is from a commercial electrical supply used for buried cable.
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:43 AM
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I have the same crimper. I whale on it with a 5lb sledge. Usually a couple good whacks.
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:45 AM
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Soldered connections fail when a bad connection creates heat. I worked for the bell system for 30 years
We could only use Hydrolic or mechanical crimping tools designed for specific lugs and cable size.
Sizes ranges from 20Ga wire to 700cf Cable. Soldered connectors were used from the late 1800s to about 1965. Crimped connectors have been used since.
A bad connection will produce heat and arcing and you may not see it until too late. This is not a place to take a short cut.
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:47 AM
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I did a large installation without crimping. 3 battery banks, twin engines, twin gensets. It has been running 20 years with no problems. See how at http://www.yandina.com/Soldering.htm
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Old 03-26-2010, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetboat69 View Post
Soldered connections fail when a bad connection creates heat. I worked for the bell system for 30 years
We could only use Hydrolic or mechanical crimping tools designed for specific lugs and cable size.
Sizes ranges from 20Ga wire to 700cf Cable. Soldered connectors were used from the late 1800s to about 1965. Crimped connectors have been used since.
A bad connection will produce heat and arcing and you may not see it until too late. This is not a place to take a short cut.
Like I said,soldering is used as a secondary mesure to a Hammered crimp.......best is a Hex crimp. if you are creating enough heat in a house bank connector (or start bank for that matter) to melt solder you have a direct short and severely miswired your system.
a correct solder conection will not "create" heat or resistance in the amperages and voltages we are concerned with on pleasure boats.
480V 3 phase mabye but not in this forum
since the OP does not have a crimping tool IMHO solder and hammer crimp will outlast the boat.
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Old 03-26-2010, 11:15 AM
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I should have added that I was referring to DC plants that ranged from 6v to 130V DC both Neg and Pos systems. The Bats ranged from small 6V cells to large single 2.5v cell submarine bats wired in series.
I have seen failures and hot connectors that looked ok. It does not take a direct short to create heat!.
A direct short will create an arc that will start a fire and melt insulation.
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Old 03-26-2010, 11:38 AM
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Hit it as hard as reasonable possible and reposition it to a uncrimped area and hit/crimp it again and again. The more crimping the better. The cable needs to be firmly grasped by the lug.
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetboat69 View Post
Take it to someone who has the correct crimp-er. T&B, Greenly etc. Use No Ox in the connector and cable. Use adhesive heat shrink tubing over the connector.
The best shrink tubing is from a commercial electrical supply used for buried cable.
I'd LOVE to "take it to someone..." BUT, the other end of this 20' cable is snaked down the interior of a 30' sportfish which would need to be dragged along with the cable down to the shop, cause this cable ain't EVER coming out!

The commercial electrical heat shrink generally does not come lined, so the heavy duty lined heat shrink I find to be much better. The adhesive melts, coats the connection nice, and bonds nice, and then hardens the shrink nicely.

As CME mentioned, the solder will only be to fill the "gaps" after the questionable rookie crimp job.
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