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Random Quote: If you want a fish to grow,let it go. If you want a fish to cook and grow don't take a picture
If the wires are going to be spliced, then one of my favorite splices is the Western Union splice. This would then be covered w/ adhesive lined shrink tubing and the joints staggered.
Unless someone is very proficient at soldering they should not attempt to use soldering as a method of making electrical connections on a boat (or anything else for that matter).
Also the ABYC standards prohibit soldering as the sole means of making a connection.
ps a western union splice is intended for solid wire not stranded.
If the wires are going to be spliced, then one of my favorite splices is the Western Union splice. This would then be covered w/ adhesive lined shrink tubing and the joints staggered.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ Marine
Unless someone is very proficient at soldering they should not attempt to use soldering as a method of making electrical connections on a boat (or anything else for that matter).
Absolutely!
Whenever I solder I work to IPC standards.
I don't think I've recommended solder for this repair!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ Marine
Also the ABYC standards prohibit soldering as the sole means of making a connection.
Absolutely!
That is why the Western Union splice is one of my favorite splices. The Western Union splice provides mechanical strength to the splice.
When the Western Union splice was helping to win the Wild Wild West, the linemen were not at the top of the pole w/ their butane soldering iron and their adhesive-lined shrink tubing. They twisted, wrapped and go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ Marine
ps a western union splice is intended for solid wire not stranded.
Absolutely!
There are many stranded-wire splices that I've made using the Western Union splice and they have held up just fine.
BTW, the images on the Nasa link had worked before, but they are not working for me now.
I don't think I've recommended solder for this repair!
That is why the Western Union splice is one of my favorite splices. The Western Union splice provides mechanical strength to the splice.
There are many stranded-wire splices that I've made using the Western Union splice and they have held up just fine.\
so to get this straight you are recommending twisting the wires together and heat shrinking them?
Im sure that works fine for a SOLID conductor wire that is in a stationary position. However that is completely unacceptable in a marine environment. Stranded wire doesn't get near the mechanical strength that solid conductor wire does in this splice.It would work fine if solder was added, but that would be assuming that there were a qualified person making the solder joints and still would be questionable according to ABYC standards.
It would work fine if solder was added, but that would be assuming that there were a qualified person making the solder joints and still would be questionable according to ABYC standards.
A splice made with adhesive lined heat shrink crimp connectors is quick simple, easy, and reliable: Strip the wires, insert them into the connectopr, crimp, then apply heat to shrink. It's quick and only a modest amount of skill is involved.
While there are arguably other ways to produce a reliable splice in a marine environment, the only valid argument against using the above method would be that the materials and/or tools are not available (you're stranded on a desert island).
A splice made with adhesive lined heat shrink crimp connectors is quick simple, easy, and reliable: Strip the wires, insert them into the connectopr, crimp, then apply heat to shrink. It's quick and only a modest amount of skill is involved.
While there are arguably other ways to produce a reliable splice in a marine environment, the only valid argument against using the above method would be that the materials and/or tools are not available (you're stranded on a desert island).
There is only one reason I wouldn't use the connectors and that is if the pipe diameter is only big enough to hold what wiring you've got now. If thats the case new wires is the way to go. The connectors take up a lot of space. If you try to put them all in the same area of the length of wire you end up with a problem trying to fit them all in. They have to be stagered along the length of the wire run to leave space for them all.
Serious question - why does the ABYC recommend against soldering? I think I know why, and if the reasons are what I think they are (mechanical weakness, current-related failures and dielectric corrosion) then I am not sure I would agree.
Short of buying the ABYC standards, where can I find out what the standards are and what the rationale behind them is?
ABYC Standards (they don't recommend against soldering)
11.14.5.3
Each splice joining conductor to conductor, conductor to connectors, and conductor to terminals must be able to withstand a tensile force equal to at least the value shown in Table XV for the smallest conductor size used in the splice for a one minute duration, and not break.
11.14.5.7
Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.
EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times the diameter of the conductor.
NOTE: When a stranded conductor is soldered, the soldered portion of the conductor becomes a solid strand conductor, and flexing can cause the conductor to break at the end of the solder joint unless adequate additional support is provided.
I would go with non-insulated crimp butt connectors covered by adhesive lined heat shrink. This will provide the lowest profile producing minimum bulking of the cable bundle where spliced, good connection, waterproof and neat appearance.
Not trying to hijack here but how do splice say a 10-12 gauge wire to a 16 g wire? I haven't found HEAT SHRINK BUTT CONNECTORS that have 10-12 on one end and 14-16 on the other.
Not trying to hijack here but how do splice say a 10-12 gauge wire to a 16 g wire? I haven't found HEAT SHRINK BUTT CONNECTORS that have 10-12 on one end and 14-16 on the other.
in the occasion I have had to do this I simply stripped of 2X the length needed on the slimmer wire and folded it onto itself increasing the thickness, then i use heat shrink connectors with the glue.
Not trying to hijack here but how do splice say a 10-12 gauge wire to a 16 g wire? I haven't found HEAT SHRINK BUTT CONNECTORS that have 10-12 on one end and 14-16 on the other.
Iv'e used non-insulated step-down butt connectors from Connector Supply with adhesive lined heat shrink but they do have them that come with the adhesive lined heat shrink.
I third the motion for a labeled terminal block. second would be new wire run and third chioce in HS butt splices. no western unions, solder, liquid or PVC electrical tape.
__________________ "I love you and respect you very much. But I will kill you dead before this day ends"
Not trying to hijack here but how do splice say a 10-12 gauge wire to a 16 g wire? I haven't found HEAT SHRINK BUTT CONNECTORS that have 10-12 on one end and 14-16 on the other.
It would be rare that one would do that but I would do it (and have done it) the way BACKTOTHESEA suggests. If you need to heat shrink it you will need to install some heat shrink tubing on the smaller wire's insulation first to bring it up to the same size as the larger wire's insulation.
What you need is a package of "telephone crimps" from Radio Shack, of all people. They easily handle 24-26-28 gage wire similar to what you might find in many instruments. 28 guage might require doubling or a partner. Anyway, these crimps are a lifesaver. Multi conductor cables...5 or more can be staggered so the resulting splice is about the same diameter as the original cable. The perfect crimper is a surprise too...a Klein tool or Chinese look alike with the tiny diamond shaped "die" works perfectly.
