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Structure Scan LSS-1 mounting dilemma.. Glacier Bay Cat. Lots of pics. Need advice.
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Structure Scan LSS-1 mounting dilemma.. Glacier Bay Cat. Lots of pics. Need advice.
I received my structure scan transducer yesterday. At this point I don't have Lowrance anything on my boat but I have been very intrigued by the capabilities of structure scan and came to the conclusion that if I could make it work on my boat, it would compliment my existing electronics.
My concern was if I would be able to mount the transducer on the back of my twin engine cat.
Since I dont know the cone angle I thought I would post some pictures here to get opinions from those that have some experience with this thing. I will also direct this information to my Lowrance contacts to see what they have to say. As it looks right now, I dont think this thing will work well on my boat. It would appear that the engines will be in the way and block one side of the side scan.
Here are a few shots of the back of the boat. You will notice that the engines hang well below the bottom of the hull and the sponsons are kind of narrow.
Here are some pictures of potential placement of the transducer. Option 1.. Its a bit close to the engine, but depending on how the engines are trimmed, it might work. Option 2.. Its a bit further from the engine, trim might help but still not sure. Option 3.. Centered on the boat. Should work if the boat is going slow. Its a displacement hull so this might be an option.
I will also note that the plug at the end of the cable will make routing this thing a pain. Its too big to run through the little drain holes in my engine wells. I am sure I can figure something out but I am not going to be drilling any big holes into my hull for that thing.
Option one but a few more inches to the center, so that it clears the motor.
About where your pinky knuckle is...
__________________ "Give me your hungry, your tired your poor I'll pee on em
Thats what the statue of bigotry says
Your poor huddled masses, lets club em to death
And get it over with and just dump em on the boulevard"
-L.Reed
"If you don't like it, go to Russia" -Homer Simpson.
I have read on here that can turn that ducer around the wire is facing the transom. Then you have to go into the unit and change that option around as well. I wouldnt mount it in the center where your swim ladder is. It look like it would interfere with your motor brackets.
__________________ 2006 Skeeter ZX24 Bay
2006 Yamaha 300 HPDI
2010 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4
Team: EAT-SLEEP-FISH---~ <)))))<
Trying hard to become a 1%er www.ramseydoor.com www.raynoroverheaddoor.com
I have read on here that can turn that ducer around the wire is facing the transom. Then you have to go into the unit and change that option around as well. I wouldnt mount it in the center where your swim ladder is. It look like it would interfere with your motor brackets.
I thought it would interfere with the engines at full lock if mounted on the sponson but it doesn't. It is close though.
I never use the swim bracket so if all else failed that would be an option but as you pointed out, the side scan might be adversely effected by the engines on either side. It also wouldnt be very effective there at anything above a slow troll speed due to the water turbulence there.
I just threw the ducer on the bracket for the pics and cable facing rear made it easiest for holding it in place. If and when I actually mount it, I will most likely have the cable face forward though I think it would create less drag facing the rear should it be mounted below the hull.
Slief, I've been pondering the same question with my Twin Vee. My bunk boards are shorter than yours and I was planning on mounting directly to the bottom of my hull in the flat area. My thoughts were that I could modify my trailer bunks again if needed so that the transducer would not rest on the bunk.
__________________ SoCal : Twin Vee 26' Express "MamaMia", 14' Novurania and 9' Zodiac tender
Slief, I've been pondering the same question with my Twin Vee. My bunk boards are shorter than yours and I was planning on mounting directly to the bottom of my hull in the flat area. My thoughts were that I could modify my trailer bunks again if needed so that the transducer would not rest on the bunk.
The same thought had crossed my mind and just modify one of the bunks to accomodate the ducer. That's still an option though the cable will be pretty unsightly running from underneath all the way up and into the lower engine cowl or engine well. It would pain me to drill holes into the bottom of the boat for this thing though. I would also be concerned that if the boat was shifted to far to one side (there is a couple inches of wiggle room when loading), the ducer could get crushed. I wasn't so concerned about my 1Kw through hull transducer as there was no question about the quality of it. The jury is still out on the LSS-1 though. I guess small holes are easy enough to fill regardless of whether they are on the transom or the bottom.
slief, it will be impossible to make that transducer work on your boat, so to save you from all that aggravation, I will happily take it off your hands. Send it to me now.
__________________ Capt Will, 2002 G/W 282 Sailfish, F225's
USCG Master, 50 Ton; Towing endorsement
Indian River, De
I was going to mount mine to the bottom of the hull also. However, the instructions specifically say NOT to do this. So, mine will be just added to the transom with the other two transducers. Also, if you plan to take advantage of the DownScan overlay on BB sonar option, the two transducers must be within 1 foot of each other. If not, the images will not overlay properly.
I was going to mount mine to the bottom of the hull also. However, the instructions specifically say NOT to do this. So, mine will be just added to the transom with the other two transducers. Also, if you plan to take advantage of the DownScan overlay on BB sonar option, the two transducers must be within 1 foot of each other. If not, the images will not overlay properly.
People are doing it.. Lowrance mentioned that as an option to me. If not done right it could come off or effect the boats handling. Most dont have a level spot at the bottom of the boat. Perhaps they can't condone that but I dont think I would have an issue. Thats the last place however that I want to mount it. I would much prefer the transom.
Thats good to know about the BB sonar. Fortunatley, I have no need or desire for BB Sonar at this time. I am very happy with my FCV585/B164.
It would be VERY good to know what the cone width is at 1' and 2' from the transducer. That would make it easy to determine if my transom mount choices will work.
Slief, how do you like your four blade props? What are the flat plates mounted on your lower ends, do they help?
I have the twin 150 suzuki ob's with 3-blades.
__________________ SoCal : Twin Vee 26' Express "MamaMia", 14' Novurania and 9' Zodiac tender
I know nothing about how that ducer works, or how it should be mounted, but a coupel of thoughts for ya:
1. DO NOT mount the bracket directly onto your transom!! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE first fiberglass a small block onto the transom to the spot you will mount it, and then screw the bracket into the block. This way, if it doesn't wok, needs adjusted, no damage is made to the transom, and/or you can easily move the bracket around a bit to get it right with putting holes in the transom.
2. Is there no Thru hull ducer for this? I really see getting that ducer in the correct spot on ANY hull, very difficult.
The bottom of the ducer needs to be placed a couple of inches below the lowest obstruction mounted to the transom (ie: other ducers, swim ladder receivers, trim tabs, etc). Make a line with something removable across the transom and use that as a guide. I hope the picture below is big enough but ducer is just below the jack plate, mounted directly to the transom and the bottom of the ducer is below the trim tabs. Its a Humminbird SI ducer but its all the same as far as mounting applications.
__________________ 2006 Skeeter ZX24 Bay
2006 Yamaha 300 HPDI
2010 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4
Team: EAT-SLEEP-FISH---~ <)))))<
Trying hard to become a 1%er www.ramseydoor.com www.raynoroverheaddoor.com
Slief, how do you like your four blade props? What are the flat plates mounted on your lower ends, do they help?
I have the twin 150 suzuki ob's with 3-blades.
Can't really comment on the props. They are what came with my boat and what I stuck with when I repowered. I am sure there are better props out there be it pitch or number of blades and if I was really hell bent on getting it perfect, I would seek the help or Prop Gods which is an option for the future. I will say that when compared to other Glacier Bays in the same class, I am right up where I should be as far as speed and efficiency.
The plates are PermaTrims. Essentially they are high end hydrofoils and work great compared to doel fins. I swapped out a set of doel for these and was really impressed. They make the trim much more sensitive and under certain conditions that is HUGELY valuable and worth every penny in my opinion. That is one upgrade that I think is worth having on most any cat. Especially a displacement one. Ship Yard Island is a board sponsor here and has a forum here at THT dedicated to Perma Trims. Andy is a great guy too!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdman
I know nothing about how that ducer works, or how it should be mounted, but a coupel of thoughts for ya:
1. DO NOT mount the bracket directly onto your transom!! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE first fiberglass a small block onto the transom to the spot you will mount it, and then screw the bracket into the block. This way, if it doesn't wok, needs adjusted, no damage is made to the transom, and/or you can easily move the bracket around a bit to get it right with putting holes in the transom.
2. Is there no Thru hull ducer for this? I really see getting that ducer in the correct spot on ANY hull, very difficult.
Good luck in any case!!
I hear you on not mounting directly to the hull. I was considering a piece of starboard or plexiglass adhered to the transom with some 5200 and mounting the ducer to that. My biggest concern is that if the ducer is spaced further away from the hull, the lower units might interfere with the side scan. As it is, that still might be an issue.
I was also thinking about making a new ducer bracket so that the ducer doesnt stick out as far away from the transom.
On the stbd side of the boat there is already a mount with holes from the original transom mount transducer which was removed when I installed my new electronics. I took the pictures from the port side (due to lighting and space), but would most likely mount to the stbd if there is no risk of interference from my 1kw 50/200 thru hull transducer for my furuno.
As far as thru hull structure scan transducers. Not at this time and I suspect that if they did make one, they would end up being pretty wide. This ducer is 6.5" by about 2".
Get a nylon mounting block and stick it to the hull with 3M's VHB tape until you find the right spot.
When driving around on Structure/DownScan I would only use the Starboard motor if mounted on Port hull.
Fishton,
Will that 3M VHB Tape reliably hold a block to the transom for any length of time?? I was seriously considering doing exactly what you suggested but using 5200 instead.
What is the logic of not using the engine on the same side as the scan ducer if the engine and it turbulance is behind the ducer? Do you really think that will be an issue? I suppose that is something that will need some experimentation but now that you mention it, raising that engine (if not in use) would help assuming the lower unit was interfering with side scan.
Fishton,
Will that 3M VHB Tape reliably hold a block to the transom for any length of time?? I was seriously considering doing exactly what you suggested but using 5200 instead.
What is the logic of not using the engine on the same side as the scan ducer if the engine and it turbulance is behind the ducer? Do you really think that will be an issue? I suppose that is something that will need some experimentation but now that you mention it, raising that engine (if not in use) would help assuming the lower unit was interfering with side scan.
I used silicon to mount my original transducer to my transom before I installed the tilted element transducer. The stuff held great. I would think the 3M VHB Tape or 5200 would do a fine job as well.
__________________ SoCal : Twin Vee 26' Express "MamaMia", 14' Novurania and 9' Zodiac tender
Can't really comment on the props. They are what came with my boat and what I stuck with when I repowered. I am sure there are better props out there be it pitch or number of blades and if I was really hell bent on getting it perfect, I would seek the help or Prop Gods which is an option for the future. I will say that when compared to other Glacier Bays in the same class, I am right up where I should be as far as speed and efficiency.
The plates are PermaTrims. Essentially they are high end hydrofoils and work great compared to doel fins. I swapped out a set of doel for these and was really impressed. They make the trim much more sensitive and under certain conditions that is HUGELY valuable and worth every penny in my opinion. That is one upgrade that I think is worth having on most any cat. Especially a displacement one. Ship Yard Island is a board sponsor here and has a forum here at THT dedicated to Perma Trims. Andy is a great guy too!
I hear you on not mounting directly to the hull. I was considering a piece of starboard or plexiglass adhered to the transom with some 5200 and mounting the ducer to that. My biggest concern is that if the ducer is spaced further away from the hull, the lower units might interfere with the side scan. As it is, that still might be an issue.
I was also thinking about making a new ducer bracket so that the ducer doesnt stick out as far away from the transom.
On the stbd side of the boat there is already a mount with holes from the original transom mount transducer which was removed when I installed my new electronics. I took the pictures from the port side (due to lighting and space), but would most likely mount to the stbd if there is no risk of interference from my 1kw 50/200 thru hull transducer for my furuno.
As far as thru hull structure scan transducers. Not at this time and I suspect that if they did make one, they would end up being pretty wide. This ducer is 6.5" by about 2".
Slief,
The last picture is where i would mount it. You just have to trim up the motors a little bit when using the side scan. Its only going to work till about 6 mph anyway so it shouldnt be a problem.
By the way.....how do you like those bunk slicks?? Dealer here swears by them and puts them under every scout that he sells even the big Abaco walk arounds. For some reason i had to remove mine as they were starting to scratch the hull.
__________________ 2006 Skeeter ZX24 Bay
2006 Yamaha 300 HPDI
2010 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4
Team: EAT-SLEEP-FISH---~ <)))))<
Trying hard to become a 1%er www.ramseydoor.com www.raynoroverheaddoor.com
Everyone is always trying to do this with Starboard. Why not just easily epoxy a scrap piece of fiberglass to the hull? It basically becomes permanant with no worries. If you near ANY boat manufacturer, walk in and ask for a scrap piece, they throw tons of it away everyday.
The last picture is where i would mount it. You just have to trim up the motors a little bit when using the side scan. Its only going to work till about 6 mph anyway so it shouldnt be a problem.
By the way.....how do you like those bunk slicks?? Dealer here swears by them and puts them under every scout that he sells even the big Abaco walk arounds. For some reason i had to remove mine as they were starting to scratch the hull.
The slick plastic on my bunks seems just fine to me. It certainly makes loading easier as I winch the boat up on the trailer at certain ramps and without it, I dont think that would be an option.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdman
FYI, 5200 will NOT hold Starboard.
Everyone is always trying to do this with Starboard. Why not just easily epoxy a scrap piece of fiberglass to the hull? It basically becomes permanant with no worries. If you near ANY boat manufacturer, walk in and ask for a scrap piece, they throw tons of it away everyday.
Yea.. I was aware of starboard and 5200 not adhering. I thought about that after the post. I was really thinking about lexan or a piece of plexiglass for a temporary mount. Fiber glass is an option but I am not sure I want anything permanent as of yet. Especially due to the fact that I'm not even sure this thing will work well on my hull.
That brings up a question though. If I was to consider doing something permanant like a fiberglass add on, why not just screw and 5200 the ducer bracket to the hull at that point and ixnay the glass? Seems like six of this or a half dozen of the other..
Structure Scan LSS-1 mounting dilemma.. Glacier Bay Cat. Lots of pics. Need advice. 
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