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Trying to install a new on-board battery charger, and I've hit a roadblock. Battery #2 has the cables attached with a wingnut, and after 2 days of WD-40 treatment, it still won't come off. In fact, now the ACTUAL POST is turning when I crank it with the pliers.
If this threaded post has now come loose, what should I do? The large post is unused, so I guess I could get a clamp and start using that... But I don't know if I've damaged the battery.
Another 30 second job that turns into a multi-hour fiasco. I have them too frequently
If the case is compromised, replace the batt. If not, I don't see why you cannot use the clamp-on
3-hour fiasco is about right... I ended up getting the clamp-on and using that to re-attach everything, after using a hacksaw to remove the threaded post. The clerk at Advance Auto said that the post goes all the way through the battery and that if its moving, I may have a cracked cell and the battery might be ruined. Any way to know if the case is compromised?
The on-board battery charger I just bought doesn't seem to be working, and I wonder if it's related to this issue. It initially turned on and lit up, but now the lights are off on the machine. Would a bad battery cause this?
batts are made of lead...lead is soft...anytime you crank down on a post you can damage it as it's soft. That's for any type of batt , not just marine....
As for the charger, after you disconnect from the batt, use a meter & check the output voltage (should be about 13.6VDC). If none, check the input voltage (should be about 120VAC).
I personally perfer not to use the wing nuts. I use a standard nut with a lock washer. There are reports of Nylox nuts heating and being destroyed under high loads.
Agree with the PB blaster, but also to prevent the issue, use a corrosion block compound when you put the nut on the terminal.
Is there a hex base to the threaded stud post on the battery? If so it is very important to employ an open-end wrench to stabilize the stud when tightening or removing the top nut (of whatever kind) to avoid breaking the seal into the molded case and , if turned just too much possibly compromising the electrical connection inside the cell.
That said, it is not correct that the battery is automatically ruined if the stud has turned slightly and broken the case seal. One of my Sears Platinum Marine AGMs has had a slightly turned stud for over a year and still works flawlessly so far. I had to grind way down an open end wrench to make it thin enough to fit on the threaded stud's thin hex base under the cable end ring connectors.
The Sears AGMs and some others have the hex base sitting on top of the case rather than set into the case where it would do the most good to stabilize the stud. Poor design on otherwise good battery. .
Glock Diver, perhaps you can get a grip on the underlying bolt head by squeezing the lead alloy surrounding it with an adjustable locking plier, like a Vice-Grip: http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...IrwinCat100299
The 3/8 and 5/16 studs in MOST Batteries are nothing more than a SS bolt cast into the lead and do not penetrate the case, I have a batt I use for my trout boat trolling motor someone hooked up backwards to another........the ss post(read bolt) melted off but the automotive lug is fine and I troll all day on it. NAPA makes a heavy duty lug adapter with stainless hardware I use to wire 6volt banks up, they work great. i think they call em Bus lugs or something of that nature. NAPA part # 728222 and #728223 for positive and negative respectivly. they have 3/8 hardware though. sometimes it comes in stainless sometimes not, just change out the hardware.
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Too late now but I think that if the cable terminal had been prevented from rotating the post would not have rotated. Just a guess though.
Another reason not to use wing nuts. To make sure they don't loosen they have to almost be over tightened. Over tightening them can contribute to the ss threads galling which causes unnecessary torque being needed to remove them. With a good nylock just a small amount of torque is needed. The torque makes a good electrical connection and the nylock prevents the nut from backing off.
With a good electrical connection there should be nil resistance. Nil resistance means little or no heat build up at the connection.
Well I drug that battery into Advance Auto, and they tested it on their machine. 132 marine cranking amps on a 650 MCA battery. The machine said "Replace". They hooked it up to their charger, and it wouldn't take a charge from their quick charger
Thanks for the tips. Unfortunately this Deko Marine Master had no hex nut to grip on the surface of the battery.
It's an XPS 5/5 auto charger, made by ProMariner for Bass Pro Shops. Believe it cost $124.99.
I took it into BPS, asked them to check it. The Tracker mechanic checked it out, and 1 of the 2 outputs was not delivering any juice, and recommended that I exchange it. So, the new one seems to be working much better. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to mount it in the boat.
ProMariner- maybe you can answer this. I have 2 primary batteries on the boat, and just installed a 3rd as an emergency/backup. The 3rd battery not connected to anything. Hindsight is 20/20, and I should have bought the 5/5/5 charger. But since I didn't, could I jump the 2nd battery to #3 periodically just to ensure it stays topped off, if I ever need it?
Secret to removing a battery cable
The large post is unused, so I guess I could get a clamp and start using that... But I don't know if I've damaged the battery.
; That sucks... And that was the stronger of the 2! It's not turning much. Very SLIGHT movement. 
ProMariner Post
