*THE HULL TRUTH is the world's largest FREE network for the discussion of Boating & Fishing. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
Welcome to the updated THT!
If you are having trouble signing in, please email firstname.lastname@example.org with your username and we will help you. We thank you for your patience as we help you access the new site!
Random Quote: If you're young and foolish, you're young and foolish. If old and foolish you haven't learned a thing.
In a prior post I asked how hard or easy it is to install
a Garmin 2006C/GSD 20. The consensus was it is easy.
Now the hard part. I'm new to the boating world (my
Triton 220 LTS will be here this week) and I would
actually like to do the electronics installation myself,
however, having never done marine electronics before
is this something that I can easily get in over my head
with? I read the wiring diagram for installation but how
do you tie all this into your electrical system. What I'm
looking for is: You have to use X, X , and X. Then do
Y, Y and Y. Kind of like a "Installing a Garmin 2006C
for Dummies" I fugure there is a first time for
everything, I just don't want to screw it up!
The transducer was installed during production,
so that's one less step I have to do.
Anyone have a "this is how you do it" ?
Thanks in advance!
The instruction manual is pretty good. Nothing really high tech about the install other then planning. Garmin has chosen to have a lot of bare wires (instead of connectors) for connecting everything, so this requires you to buy a terminal strip (if you don't know what that is, then have someone do the install for you).
I mounted two terminal strips on a board along with the GSD-20 block box. Labeled all the connection points and then mounted in the boat. From that you run the transducer cable to the black box (easy it's a connector), run the cable from the display to the terminal strip and connect and then run the GPS head cable to the terminal strip board and connect that as directed. Not rocket science, but you should know how to crimp a wire and follow a wiring diagram. If you have a friend handy with this invite him/her to help out, good way to learn, and with a boat there is no time like the present!
The wiring diagram that comes with the 2006c (and the 2010c) is pretty straightforward. There is a diagram in there that shows the GPSmap 2006c and its wires, and also the wires associated with the GPS 17 sensor. There is a wire to wire connection hook-up diagram in the installation guide.
orange ------------------------------------- yellow
red ------------------------------------------red (power)
yellow (alarm) ---- not used in my installation
black --------------------------------------- black (ground)
green (port 4 out) ----------------------- blue (com 1 in)
white (port 4 in) ------------------------- white (com 1 out)
---------------------------------------------- green (com 2 in) <-- not used in my installation
---------------------------------------------- violet (com 2 out) <-- not used in my installation
white ------------------------------------- blue
white ------------------------------------- brown
The port4/com1 connections I believe are the NMEA in and out and I haven't used them yet. When I figure out which ones to use with my Icom 502 to activate the DSC, I'll be hooking them up by using a terminal block. If anyone would like to give me pointers here on what wires to use from the Icom to the Garmin gear, I'd appreciate your insight!
If you mounting your electronics (like Megabyte's Furuno) you can first install a piece of Starboard on top of your console and then mount the electronics to the piece of starboard. This way if you change your electronics in the future you can easily move them without drilling new holes in your fiberglass console. For making the Garmin electrical connections first hand twist everything together to make sure it all works, then you do hard mechanical connections using either a bus block or by using solder and heat shrink tubing.
If you plan to interface your Garmin unit with other electronics, such as DSC Radio, check with the manufacturers on wiring first. Garmin uses common ground for it's (-)NMEA connections while most other manufactuers use a dedicated (-)NMEA lead. Also every manufactuers uses different colored wires so don't automatically connect white to white, blue to blue, etc. Check first, hand twist to make sure it all works, and then do your hard mechanical connections.
Here's my current wiring diagram and the Garmin to Garmin was very simple and easy! But I've been having a NMEA interface problem between the different manufactueres and I hope this current diagram solves it.
Radio: The standard horizon customer rep "Disconnect the radio Brown wire from the Garmin connection, and this will solve your problem. The Brown wire is not used for this interface." But this little bit in info is not in their installation manual... we'll see
Furuno: So my depthfinder will display speed, depth, and temperature on my Garmin display, no NMEA "in" connections are needed.
Chartplotter: Garmin rep says both radio and depthfinder can use the same NMEA port, Furuno and Standard Horizon say they each need their own NMEA port.... we'll see.
Plan to get down to the boat this weekend and try and finish all this up.
Hand twist first, make sure everything works, then make hard connections (smile)
Hmmmmm.... My Icom 502 has two RCA type plugs on the back of it (the third is for an external speaker). It appears that Icom has gotten away from requiring you to connect to the center or outside lead of a single plug by providing two of them already listed + and -.
Going by Rods diagram (and a NICE one it is!), I would think that my NMEA - would go to ground and the NMEA + would go to blue, if I'm reading it properly.
Instructions for setting the NMEA in the 2010c and the 502 are in the manuals, but I don't have that part committed to memory. Once I get the wiring right, getting the config correct shouldn't be a big deal.
Capt. Kevin ~~~~~~~~~~><((((*>
Lots of good suggestions already posted. I installed my 2006c and gsd20 a couple of years ago and all components are working just fine.
I would suggest that you visit your local Radio Shack, the store everyone loves to hate, and buy a couple of European-style terminal strips. They come in several different sizes and you will find the smallest size ideal for the termination all of those small #18/20 wires. They are screw-type connections so no soldering and no crimping. The terminal strips are very light and fully insulated so you do not really need to physically fasten the terminal strip to anything. You may also wish to buy a wire stripper designed for small wire sizes, a good pair of diagonal pliers, a pack of small ty-wraps and a pack of 1/4 inch spiral wrap, the last 2 items to neaten up the wire bundles.
When finished, spray the strips with Boeshield, CRC or other corrosion blocker.
Trying not to stray far away from the original question,
But with NMEA, every manufactuer is a little different. I orginally connected everything per Garmin instructions and the radio wouldn't work, disconnect the NMEA and everything was fine. The goal is to have the Garmin display an icon on the chartplotter screen when receiving a DSC radio transmission... thus needing both NMEA in and NMEA out. Why the Standard Horizon doesn't need the brown wire, I don't have a clue but the rep immediately new of the problem and the answer. It's probably something specific between Garmin and Standard Horizon, and Garmin's use of common ground in it's NMEA ground.
Anyway the Garmin to Garmin connections (per original question) are very straightforward and easy!
All this raises an interesting question (at least interesting to me!). I have used my port 1 NEMA out for my fuel management system (blue wire) and am hooking the port 2 NEMA for my autopilot (grey wire). I used the terminal box approach that others have described, so could I also hook up my radio or another device to the same NEMA ports. In other words can port 1 supply NEMA info to multiple devices? It would seem like it could.
Rod, I mis-interperated your diagram. What I should have concluded was that the blue NMEA out on the 2010 would connect to the 502a's NMEA in, and the brown NMEA in on the 2010 would go to the 502's NMEA out. (I think)
This is making my head hurt...
Capt. Kevin ~~~~~~~~~~><((((*>
I'm reviving this thread because I will shortly attempt to install a Garmin 2006C along with its GPS antenae, a GSD-20 sounder and transducer, and (eventually) a VHF with the NMEA distress links - and this thread has been hugely informative so far.
My question to the the more experienced there is how to get battery power to the connections. I think I understand the wiring diagrams, and just matching up the appropriate wires from the different devices onto a bus bar. But, to echo the very first poster in this thread, EXACTLY how do I do that?
- run +/- wires directly to the battery? (or somewhere else)
- what guage, awg, etc?
- if using a bus bar, should I use some type of connector? what kind?
My boat currently has no electronics, so this is pretty much from scratch, and any additional advice would be appreciated.
What I always install in my friends' boats if they have bad or nonexistent power distribution is a Blue Seas brand blade fuse block.* http://www.bluesea.com/dept.asp?d_id=7463&l1=7463**Get the*type with a negative bus.**Wire this to your battery*and put a fuse on the positive side near the battery.* The fuse*at the battery should be higher than the sum of*all the stuff you plan to hang off of the*fuse block, and smaller than the current rating of the primary power wire running to the fuse block.* What you use to attach the wires to the fuse block is simply the appropriate size ring terminal.* I prefer Ancor brand to the homebuilder types because I find the insulating ring to be higher quality, and I think they are more corrosion resistant.*
Here is a good article with some info on current handling capacity.* http://www.boatus.com/boattech/CircuitProtect.htm* Make sure to spec your primary wire for a lot more current than you plan to use, no sense in redoing everything in a few years when you buy more toys.* Also, make sure you put the fuse block in a place well protected from the elements.*
Intrigued by the comment:
"If you mounting your electronics (like Megabyte's Furuno) you can first install a piece of Starboard on top of your console and then mount the electronics to the piece of starboard. This way if you change your electronics in the future you can easily move them without drilling new holes in your fiberglass console."
I am shooping for toys for a new Tvin Vee 26 Weekender with a T-top here in Dunedin, FL. I will be storing it on a lift behind the house. At 6ft-1 in. and standing to drive I don't like the "overhead" electronics box as (a) it will obscure my view of the sky (birds) and (b) if I ever HIT anything, I'd cut my head or break my neck on it.
I have a few questions about how you'd do the starboard thing.....
1. How would you mount the starboard itself?
2. Where would the cable comes through?
Thanks...love THT, but almost TOO MUCH information!!
First, many thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. With this knowledge, I went and did my own install this past weekend of a Garmin GPS 2006C, GSD20 and related GPS antenae and tri-ducer. Built an elec mounting panel, mounted bus bar, terminal block and GSD, double-crimp ring connectors everywhere, and hooked it all up following Garmin's big diagram. Amazingly, everything worked perfectly on first plug-in.
I will soon try and post pics of the wiring install, as that is what I really would have found useful, and no doubt would help others. And I would like to get feedback.
However, first a question: In my dual battery setup (with a 1-both-2 switch to the motor), to which battery connectors do I connect my - and + bus bar connectors? Both to the same battery? Or one on one bat & the other on the other bat? (for the moment, they're just aligator clipped to one bat for testing). If one bat, any issue on which one?
Normally, a 2-battery setup like this has one battery used for starting, and one for electronics, lights, etc.* The second battery should be a deep cycle, and if so this is the one I'd hook the bus bar and fuse-block to.*
I really don't like to have my electronics using the same battery that is used for starting, because the voltage dips when you start the motor, frequently causing the electronics to reset.* If you could post more about your system, how the two batteries are charged, etc. then we could discuss your options better.*
__________________ PAX River, MD