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Random Quote: I aint geting on it, it ain't got no trollin motor. Grandpa boarding a cruiseship
Unfortunately, Floscan is the only viable option. All the diesel engine builders are going to native fuel management features as part of the electronic controls.
You won't find anyone entering the market, and the only other name brand making fuel flow sensors left the diesel market.
That said, I'd go with their NMEA 2000 model. They are pricey (~$1k/engine), but you can use your fancy MFD's to display the info rather than panel guages.
I'll pass on it though. I'll invest in multi-stage filtration and a crash valve now, and if fuel flow is distracting me once I get the numbers dialed in I'll consider it down the line.
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Terry Jason 35, Yanmar 370 hp, Lots of fun at a leisurely pace
Location: Quebec, Canada and Pirates Cove, OBX, NC
Posts: 17,813
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerg
I'll pass on it though. I'll invest in multi-stage filtration and a crash valve now, and if fuel flow is distracting me once I get the numbers dialed in I'll consider it down the line.
Could you please explain this a little more, I don't understand, this is new to me.
Multi-stage filtration is a better way to filter your fuel and the new filters/configuration allows you to be able to quickly change filters and prime when you need to.
Get a bad batch of fuel and these can keep your engine in one piece longer.
Crash valves allow you to use the raw water cooling pumps in your engine as emergency bilge pumps. One engine can pump something like 12k gph, and if you have a rapid leak they can get you home.
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Terry Jason 35, Yanmar 370 hp, Lots of fun at a leisurely pace
Location: Quebec, Canada and Pirates Cove, OBX, NC
Posts: 17,813
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerg
Multi-stage filtration is a better way to filter your fuel and the new filters/configuration allows you to be able to quickly change filters and prime when you need to.
Get a bad batch of fuel and these can keep your engine in one piece longer.
Crash valves allow you to use the raw water cooling pumps in your engine as emergency bilge pumps. One engine can pump something like 12k gph, and if you have a rapid leak they can get you home.
Ahhhhhhh . . . And I thought that you had some secret system to measure fuel burn
Thanks for the explanation
The Bert seems to have a good fuel filtration system but I will ask the surveyor to check . . . the same for the crash pumps
I looked at the NMEA stuff but I just couldn't justify the cost...........You are looking at like 3 grand if you pay for installation or 2200 if you do it yourself. Do you know how long they will take to pay themselves off??? You can get a pretty good idea of your sweet spot after a few trips and keep the money in the bank earning your 1%!!
There is an old rule of thumb like "one gallon per hour per jug at cruise" on the old detroits. It is gonna be close and save all that money for more fuel.
Two other issues I've heard of on the floscans. First, they will add about 1 psi to your vacuum pressure "on a clean system". If you have to do any type of plumbing to reroute the fuel lines, that can go up fast. That leads to the second issue.
You may have to increase the size of your fuel lines between the flow sensors and the tank(s). Otherwise your vacuum draw will be higher and it could put your engines into a starvation mode when the filters get a little dirty. Most engines can handle up to about 8-10", but if you start off at 4 or 5 you aren't doing yourself any favors.
That will add expense to your install. Make sure your have vacuum pressure gauges on your racors. The kind that have a resettable needle to show max pressure are nice - you can glance at them any time, even with the engine off and know if you need to change filters.
This is nothing you need to worry about now, just keep it in mind as you plan your projects.
Good luck with the survey, it's an exciting time!
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Terry Jason 35, Yanmar 370 hp, Lots of fun at a leisurely pace
Well, vacuum isn't really an issue, a vacuum gauge is just a way of monitoring the health of your fuel filter. The idea of two fuel filters in parallel is to allow a fuel filter change without shutting down and having to re-prime the fuel lines. You run on filter "A" and when the vacuum gauge sez 9 or 10 or 12-psi of suck (or whatever) you flip a valve and the fuel starts routing through the new and primed, ready to go filter "B" instead. When you get back home you swap out filter "A" and prime it so it is ready to go when filter "B" suck-o-meter indicates it is about done. This way you never have to shut down at sea for fuel filter issues.
Racor wants you to replace the "T" nut on top of their filter with an option vacuum gauge. Where I was headed (b/4 I sold my boat) was to add a brass "T" in the fuel line immediately after the fuel filter and screw in a stainless steel vacuum sensor with a 12v lead to a digital LED readout at the helm. All it does it indicate the vacuum PSI on the filter, nothing more. Cheap and easy to do -- just get the right vacuum sensor, e.g. the internal diaphragm material must be compatible with diesel fuel.
The point I was making was that the design of your fuel delivery system will impact the amount of vacuum your fuel pump will see with perfectly clean filters.
Use too small diameter lines, put in too man 90 degree elbows, too much rise, or a number of other things that will increase the resistance of the fuel flow and you will increase the draw of vacuum pressure.
By itself, that isn't a problem for an engine, until the vacuum gets too high and your fuel pump cannot keep up. You could cut the life of your filters considerably.
It's all related. A guage is like a thermometer. It tells you the value of one parameter you need to monitor. But if you add some junk to your system, you will cause yourself problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyeball
Well, vacuum isn't really an issue, a vacuum gauge is just a way of monitoring the health of your fuel filter. The idea of two fuel filters in parallel is to allow a fuel filter change without shutting down and having to re-prime the fuel lines. You run on filter "A" and when the vacuum gauge sez 9 or 10 or 12-psi of suck (or whatever) you flip a valve and the fuel starts routing through the new and primed, ready to go filter "B" instead. When you get back home you swap out filter "A" and prime it so it is ready to go when filter "B" suck-o-meter indicates it is about done. This way you never have to shut down at sea for fuel filter issues.
Racor wants you to replace the "T" nut on top of their filter with an option vacuum gauge. Where I was headed (b/4 I sold my boat) was to add a brass "T" in the fuel line immediately after the fuel filter and screw in a stainless steel vacuum sensor with a 12v lead to a digital LED readout at the helm. All it does it indicate the vacuum PSI on the filter, nothing more. Cheap and easy to do -- just get the right vacuum sensor, e.g. the internal diaphragm material must be compatible with diesel fuel.
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Terry Jason 35, Yanmar 370 hp, Lots of fun at a leisurely pace
Auguste, i'm pretty familiar with Floscans as my former business partner has installed probably close to 200 sets in the last 10 years. Like these guys are saying, they must be installed perfectly to work, the less obstructions, 90's, etc in your fuel circuit the better. your also probably going to find that they wont work correctly unless you switch your racors to 30 micron as apposed to 2-10 micron..
how many hours a year do you usually put on your boat? that will help determine if its worth the investment or not.
FlowScans for 6V92s - - - What Options 
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