Fuse size?

[bigpondonly]

Installing amp/ipod setup ala Glenn on my 22' Cape Craft CC. Clarion APX280M, max amp draw is 28. Running 10' of 10ga. to battery for power and ground. What size fuse/breaker would this application call for?
Speaker selection is still up in the air. Thinking about Infinitys or Pioneers mounted low on either side of the console. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Dave

[Joe]

Doubtful that amp will ever pull 28 amps..not for long anyway. Since you have a larger than required gauge wire for that run, you would be safe with a 20-25 amp fuse.

[Hewesfissher]

If your adding a breaker at the battery and a fuse at the amp, I would go for a 40a breaker at the battery and whatever the manufacterer calls for on the fuse. The breaker is for a dead-short (catastrphic wire meltdown) and protects the boat from fire. Honestly, the breaker fuse combo is the right way to do it. You will have piece of mind and will be a professional install. Good luck.

[DogTired]

Rule of thumb is fuse rating = 150% of maximum expected draw for electronic devices (radios, etc) and use fast blow fuses.

Then for motors, solenoids and all (inductive devices): Two times rated running or nominal current using a slow blow fuse (or time delayed).

Just from past memory!

[Idiot]

you fuse to protect the wire. so long as you dont exceed the maximum amperage capacity of the wire, you can go as high as you want. the max amperage capacity for 10 awg wire is about 30 amps. go with a 30 amp fuse and you will be fine.

[Hewesfissher]

Am I the only one suggesting a cb for the battery area connection and fuse for the amp? Or am I just overly cautious?

[Joe]

I'm not sure why you would need/want both. If you have a short, the fuse will blow faster, equating to the same thing as a the breaker tripping. The key would be to have the fuse as close to the battery as possible.

I'm also confused at the suggeston above to install a 42 amp fuse for an amp whose max draw (ever) is 28 amps. That amplifier would have to be at full blast for a period of time before it ever pulls 28 amps..if it ever would.

[jethro1]

Originally Posted by Hewesfissher

Am I the only one suggesting a cb for the battery area connection and fuse for the amp? Or am I just overly cautious?

A fuse or CB is there to protect the wire. That's it.

Some manufacturer's specify that a fuse be installed, possibly to protect the innards of whatever equipment is being powered. If this is the case then you could use a fuse/CB at the power source to protect the wire and a fuse at the inlet to the device(s) that is/are being powered. I am guessing that they do this to limit internal damage to the component in case of an internal electrical failure.

You might have a situation where the wire is sized for, and protected by, a 40 amp fuse or CB. If this wire is supplying power to let's say multiple and different devices, each with their own circuit protection specifications, then you would have a 40 amp fuse/CB at the power source and five separate fuses/CB's, of different ratings, to protect each of the devices.

[scoutman333]

I have a radio set up similar and I am using a 25 amp fuse w/ the radio and 4 speakers pulling the power and its been in use w/out blowing the fuse for over 4 years now.

Recommendation for mounting your speakers, I mounted both of my Pioneer speakers inside my radio box and they are mounted upside down so that they speakers are facing down into the boat, providing a high quality surround sound/ distribution par to none. Everyone has commented on the sound distribution and the speaker box acts as a bass tube, though, the only other electronics mounted in the box are my radio and my marine VHS.