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Finally figured out that I need the 120-37 red cable to interface my new HDS7 with my F150 Yamaha but I have not found anyone that can tell me how long the cable is before I order it.
I need to go from my center console back to the motor to connect and need about 10 ft....if this cable isn't long enough I need to by the extender but don't want to buy it if its not needed.
Does anyone know if it is as simple as plugging the cable in directly to the motor plug (blue/white wire) and then plugging into the back of my HDS7 head unit? I do not have the command link package but my motor (2006 F150) does have the plug.
When I plug the cable from the motor to the HDS7 I get no data.
Went through all the settings on the Lowrance and cant find anything that I need to change to make it work...I assumed it was plug and play.
The BW listing mentions a T Connector. From what I read (I am no expert) the network needs a terminator for any un used end. Kind of like the old token ring networks.
Again, take it for what its worth. I have never installed one of these.
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I was killing some time during lunch and did some quick research (I am considering either a HDS unit or a A70D so this was a good exercise). It looks like you need to build out the network with terminators on all open ends and power to supply the network. Just guessing, but I bet you need more parts...
Thanks.....I'm a little bit amazed on the lack of info on this subject. I'm near Charlotte NC and all the dealers I have talked to know nothing about networking the Yamaha to a head unit. From the searches I have done on the net, not as much there as I would have expected.
I haven't seen too much info either for the DIY. To make matters worse for me, I am leaning toward the Raymarine unit now which requires its own proprietary connections (SeaTalk ng) to interface with the engine. Hopefully someone who has done this before will chime in.
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I installed mines last year on a Yam-F150 to LCX38C. The cable is 15ft. The connector on the F-150 is located directly below the fuel filter at the front of the engine. This white connector has two wires, blue & white, running to it and has a dead-end cap on to protect from moisture. The connector sets on a clip to hold it in place. You simply remove the connector from the clip, remove the cap and connect it to the 120-37 network cable.
You'll find that the hardest part of all of this is running the cable from your F150 to the unit because each end is pretty fat. It was a biotch for me.
I also ordered the Network starter kit: N2K-EXP-KIT-RD. Includes 2 terminating resistors (TR-120M-RD, TR-120F-RD), two T-connectors (N2K-T-RD) one 2 ft extension cable (N2KEXT-2RD), and one 15 ft extension cable (N2KEXT-15RD). This will allow you to get your NMEA network setup properly.
The seatalk connections are the same as any regular nmea setup. You need to create a nmea network then buy the seatalk to nmea 2000 adaptor cable. The same interface cable will work. The only downside with raymarine is that you may need to borrow someones lowrance unit to set up the engine interface.I can't verify that but it is the worst case scenaro. I ordered a raymarine setup that should be here next week and I will let you know what I had to do.
Let me know how it goes. I am really only interested in the fuel consumption rates (gph, etc). May not be worth the cost but I figure if I have a compatible unit why not take advantage of it. I will also be adding a SH Eclipse + VHF (same dimensions as my current cut out) so I will be using the 0183 connections for that.
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Let me know how it goes. I am really only interested in the fuel consumption rates (gph, etc). May not be worth the cost but I figure if I have a compatible unit why not take advantage of it. I will also be adding a SH Eclipse + VHF (same dimensions as my current cut out) so I will be using the 0183 connections for that.
Lowrance makes a VHF which is N2k and will plug right into your network
you don't have to deal with nmea0183
Let me know how it goes. I am really only interested in the fuel consumption rates (gph, etc). May not be worth the cost but I figure if I have a compatible unit why not take advantage of it. I will also be adding a SH Eclipse + VHF (same dimensions as my current cut out) so I will be using the 0183 connections for that.
Will do.
The engine adaptor is less than $50 and the parts are a few bucks more. To me it's worth the piece of mind to know that the enigine isn't heating up or the alternator hasn't crapped out. I'm also pretty sure you can get tilt information provided you aren't using a yamaha digital tilt/tach already. you can get fuel flow from the unit but it will not keep track of gallons remaining in the tank. For that you will need a fuel flow sender (ep-60)
The sanshin controller for the engines does not store fuel info.
With help from Andy Munao (Thank you) and few others, I was finally able to make some sense to the NEMA2K connection and get engine data to my Lowrance. You definately need to build a NEMA2K network with terminators AND power. It seems that NEMA2K interfaces are opto-isolated to protect each device from stray spikes etc. An opto isolator is a small electrical device that consists of an LED and a photo-transistor mounted in the same package. The data coming out of the device (the Yamaha) drives the LED, but the photo-transistor on the Yamaha end, and the LED on the Lowrance end, need independent power to operate. Hence the power connection to the network.
I don't have anything else on my network so having 120 ohm terminations on each end is not really necessary. You can get a 60 ohm termination, or a power/termination device and use one 120 ohm termination.
In this case you need, at the least, the Yamaha interface cable, a powering device, 2 Tees, 1 termination, and possible an extension to reach.
My boat came with a Fara trim gauge and the dealer disconnected the pink wire so I don't get trim to my Lowrance. I'm a little afraid to connect them both (the Fara and the NEMA) for fear of introducing unwanted voltage into the Yamaha CL interface, so I'll use the Fara for now.
From my 2007 F115 I'm definately getting RPM, engine hours, alternator voltage. I need to add a water pressure sensor to get that. I'm not sure yet if I'm getting temp or fuel consumption as the engine only has 6 hours on it and I don't see much movement. I'm definately not getting oil press as this engine has a switch/warning light.
I also get alarms, including a couple nusance alarms which I've since shut off including throttle position and engine shut down.
Hope this helps others.
Jeff