Help taking out Airmar B60 Tilted element! - The Hull Truth

DogTired · 08-22-2008, 11:53 AM

Background.

Dumb dealer installed my ten month old B60 wrong. (The keel arrow points to the transom instead of the keel.)

All I want to do is get it out of the hull, clean it up and rotate it about 90 degrees so the signal transmits down insted out the back of the boat.

I think i could get it out, but I can't reach down to the inside nut on the trandsuer except with one hand and that's reaching a long ways through an 8' round access plate. Forget using slip joint pliars on the big nut like Airmar reccomends when installing a new unit with fresh sealant!

That method simply will not work for removal, especially after some bronze corrosion and cured sealant (5200) on the threads.

So I need a wrench, maybe something like a plumbers basin wrench that will reach both down to to this big nut on the the transducer and one that will apply enough torque to break the nut loose. Mechanics use crows foot wrenches for such tight places...but finding one with about a 3" span?????

I don't like Airmars design on this threaded mounting method for the tilted element , and actually I can sympthize with the rigging mechanics obvious grief he must have experienced in trying to get this thing in the boat the first time.

Any suggestions on a tool to turn this nut on the B60?

DogTired · 08-22-2008, 10:11 PM

There must be an electronics installer here that has gon through this!!!

Please, please help me!!

warthog5 · 08-23-2008, 06:05 AM

Nope.

I have heard of one install that had the arrow pointing toward the front. That is how most older X-ducers were made.

This is not going to help your problem, but.

The stupid installer didn't take 15min to read the damn instructions.

baitkiller · 08-23-2008, 07:28 AM

You need a shaft log wrench. Ill try to find a link. maybe Buck algonquin

baitkiller · 08-23-2008, 07:32 AM

here you go.... 13$ at Worst Marine

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...4&classNum=286

me00351 · 08-23-2008, 07:35 AM

the lack of space to turn a tool is your real challenge.
i installed mine with the help of my son under the boat while i turned the nut with a pipe wrench. i had plenty of room in my bilge to turn the wrench and it was still kind of a pain to tighten it down to where the outside of the transducer was flush with the hull.
can you fit a pipe wrench in there?
good luck.

warthog5 · 08-23-2008, 09:25 AM

Quote:

it was still kind of a pain to tighten it down to where the outside of the transducer was flush with the hull.

Sounds like you didn't drill the correct size hole. 2 3/8in for a B-60

I have also found that you need to run the nut down the threads before trying to install it in the boat.

I had one where there was a little bur and that made for a pain. The nut will chase the threads and take care of this.

DogTired · 08-23-2008, 05:28 PM

Baitkiller,

I think that stuffing box wrench just might work. Sure beats $70.00 for the huge crows foot wrench. I'll give it a try!

THANKS!!!

marine electrician · 08-24-2008, 05:01 PM

you need a crows foot wrench. Where are you located?, I install electronics and would be willing if you're anywhere on long island. Keep in mind, the 5200 is gonna be a tough one. heat works but will fry the transducer. Getting the bolt off isn't the only problem!

DogTired · 08-24-2008, 07:54 PM

Hey Marine Sparky!

Too bad, I' about 700 miles from you. THe stuffing box wench will not work. Only possible solution seems to be the crows foot. I'm calling Airmar to verify the nut size tomorrow. Only people Ive found that make them in the 2 inch plus sizes seem to be SK or Proto. Ouch about $70.00.

Much appreciate the offer for assistance though!!!!!

I still think I can get past the 5200. I tested some DEBOND on the 5200 that was gooped on around the hul flange. It turned it to jelly pretty quick. Also some have said that constant pressure along with the DEBOND will force it out over time. I have some reversable clamps that I'm pretty sure I can get to the ducer to get some pretty good pressure on it.

My final alternative would be to use a 3-3/4" holesaw and take out the B60 (600 w) whole with the glass, and put in a B164 (1kw). ((The 164 is much larger.))

Im trying to save that $800 and the aggravation of doing that.)

Mersiles · 08-25-2008, 07:15 AM

DogTired,

Didn't you say this was "dealer installed"? Can you make this the "dealers problem"?

I know this is not answering your question on how to remove the unit, but if you are like me sometimes the simplest answer gets overlooked.

RickyR · 08-25-2008, 01:29 PM

I have a custom cut wrench designed just for the B60. It has a handle and a hex area for the nut.
I also can get a crows foot style much less than the above figure.
shoot me a PM if you are interested.
Thanks, Ricky

DogTired · 08-25-2008, 07:14 PM

Ricky,

PM sent!

wingless · 08-27-2008, 06:19 PM

Save one killoword and post a pic.

DogTired · 02-17-2009, 12:54 PM

Lots of people tried to help on this one, but there is a Solution for this as provided by GEMCO. They are the main distributors for AIRMAR.

GEMCO is offering custom wrenches that they, themselves, are having made for tightening or removing the B60 or B164 sized Airmar ducers that can be hard to get to in a bilge!

GEMCO can be reached at 843-210-7000.

Zack at GEMCO sent me the picts of these wrenches, they can do the same for you. About $35.00 each.

Can't post pics. PM me if you need a copy.

Installers should salivate!

Chuckster · 02-17-2009, 09:10 PM

I'm a master plumber, and Ridgid makes a larger basin wrench that we use for tightening larger nuts, like tub shoes and trap slip nuts. The handle is telescopic as well... check your local plumbing supply house (you won't find one at the box stores). It will be money well-spent, and it comes in handy all around the boat.