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Random Quote: Here, hold my beer, and watch this !!!
I am figuring it all out, and it ain't that bad. Just a word to those who think it is "cute" to write sarcastic and somewhat insulting replies to my original post:
BUGGER OFF MATES! I said in my first and subsequent posts that I was just venting out of frustration, not that I am a panzy @!$#@ that will give up on a project just when it gets a bit tough. It ain't about saving the $$, it's about the pride in taking on a tough project, learning something new, completing the project, and in the end, knowing my boat better than anyone else. Thanks to all those that tried to help by giving constructive advice, and to those others, read above!
Something else I learned: there are NO standards in the electronics biz. Five differant installers would use five differant methods, and because it ain't their boat, none would (probably) take the time for the little details like soldering certain critical connections, mapping out a clear wiring diagram for my files, clearly marking EVERY wire, etc. Also, most electronics people want to also sell you the equipment, so there is a bigger risk finding someone really good who will do only the install portion.
Thanks again to all those willing to give positive input
As I said before, map out all your "ins and outs" and make sure you maintain proper polarity on your NMEA connections. Plus to Plus, Minus to Minus, and the out from one device to the in on the other. One NMEA out can drive multiple NMEA in's, but each NMEA in can only receive from a single out (that's why a MUX may be required).
I'm going to try to attach/insert the NMEA connections for my system.
Purchased all the equipment for a Raymarine E series network (2 displays, sounder, network switch, auto pilot, radar, gps) and ALL of their intall instructions conflict and confuse! God Almaighty, you have to be a bloody genius to figure it out!
griffgil1,
What do you do for a living? Doctor? Lawyer? Plumber? Carpenter?
Whatever it is, people pay you for your services because you know more about the service you provide than they do. You have the skills, education, training, and tools to get the job done efficiently and correctly.
If you're not skilled and experienced in installing marine electronics or you don't have the background to understand what's required, you are better off in the long run paying a pro to do it right. The hazards to an improper installation are potential damage to the devices themselves, the boat and its wiring, and failure of the electronic system at a most inopportune time possibly leaving you lost at sea with no way to contact help.
Seriously consider doing what you do best and using the money you earn to pay for a professional installation.
As I said before, map out all your "ins and outs" and make sure you maintain proper polarity on your NMEA connections. Plus to Plus, Minus to Minus, and the out from one device to the in on the other. One NMEA out can drive multiple NMEA in's, but each NMEA in can only receive from a single out (that's why a MUX may be required).
I'm going to try to attach/insert the NMEA connections for my system.
The above is only true for the much older NMEA 0183. The newer NMEA2000 (which the Raymarine E series supports and hopefully is being used) has no such limitation. Its a 'bus' type of architecture and one can add as many devices as required using T connectors with prewired plug-in cables. There is no concept of 'drivers' or 'reveivers' and polarity is automatically handled within the plug in cables.
As I said before, map out all your "ins and outs" and make sure you maintain proper polarity on your NMEA connections. Plus to Plus, Minus to Minus, and the out from one device to the in on the other. One NMEA out can drive multiple NMEA in's, but each NMEA in can only receive from a single out (that's why a MUX may be required).
I'm going to try to attach/insert the NMEA connections for my system.
The above is only true for the much older NMEA 0183. The newer NMEA2000 (which the Raymarine E series supports and hopefully is being used) has no such limitation. Its a 'bus' type of architecture and one can add as many devices as required using T connectors with prewired plug-in cables. There is no concept of 'drivers' or 'reveivers' and polarity is automatically handled within the plug in cables.
You are absolutely correct. However, there are many legacy NMEA 1083 devices (of which I own a number), and they must be connected this way. I am unaware of any NMEA 2000 DSC VHR radios out there. My ICOM M602, and the latest ICOM radio, the M604, are both NMEA 0183 only. As are most of the autopilots (to provide fast heading information to the MFD for radar overlay).
I would LOVE to be able to go to NMEA 2000, and get rid of the "ins and outs" but until there are more devices to take the place of what I have, it won't be any time soon.