Suzuki experts and battery combiner experts please

[captsuperfly]

Long overdue weekend project coming. I'm not near my boat (or my shop manual right now) so I figured I'd give a shout out.

Motor is a 2005 Suzuki DF 140.

I just ordered the Blue Sea "Add a battery" system from Jim@BOE (http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/docs/329) and am just a bit confused by the instructions I pulled off the website. I'm a bit handy, but not a mechanic by any long shot.

I had figured on wiring the batteries like this: (sorry, no diagram to post)

battery 1 - Starting battery. Positive to switch (input). Second + cable to the ACR. Negative to negative buss
battery 2 - House Battery - Positive to switch (opposite input). Second + cable to other post on ACR. Negative to negative buss

ACR - as mentioned positive from each battery will be run to each post. Unit will be grounded to neg buss (inline fuse as per instructions)

From Switch (start side output) rigged to motor (two wires here on DF140, yes? One larger cable for starter and one smaller one for trim etc?) Then (house side output) rigged to the panel.

now, here is where I get lost in the instructions (pdf here: http://bluesea.com/files/resources/i.../990310020.pdf)

it looks to me like there is a second cable running from the motor directly to the battery, avoiding the switch all togther. Not sure of the point of this or what it is? Isn't the point of the switch to cut direct power to the motor if needed?

Another wire looks to be the ignition isolator which should be rigged straight to the ignition. How do I do this on the DF140? Is there a lead there already? I assume I will want power to it only when cranking, so the lead from the accessory won't work.

Sorry if this is especially basic, but like I said, I'm no mechanic and I know a lot of you guys have already done this project.

thanks guys.

[Sorrento 25]

captsuperfly - 5/30/2007 9:47 PM

now, here is where I get lost in the instructions (pdf here: http://bluesea.com/files/resources/i.../990310020.pdf)

it looks to me like there is a second cable running from the motor directly to the battery, avoiding the switch all togther. Not sure of the point of this or what it is? Isn't the point of the switch to cut direct power to the motor if needed?

Another wire looks to be the ignition isolator which should be rigged straight to the ignition. How do I do this on the DF140? Is there a lead there already? I assume I will want power to it only when cranking, so the lead from the accessory won't work.

Sorry if this is especially basic, but like I said, I'm no mechanic and I know a lot of you guys have already done this project.

thanks guys.

The extra wire from the engine that you are referring to is the output from the alternator. It supplies the charge current directly to the ACR so that the ACR can distribute it to both batteries.

The ignition isolator wire is tapped into the engine crank circuit so that when you crank the engine this wire has 12 volts and the ACR isolates your electronics from the start battery which will dip to around 9V while cranking. So this would be the wire that energizes your starter solenoid. I'm not sure, but it seems like this would only apply with the batteries combined? In the normal on position they should be isolated already.

I'm no expert either - I'm in the process of installine mine right now too and don't know anything specific to your engine.

[warthog5]

The wire from the alt. to battery in the Blue Seas PFD you will not run.

That drawing is for a inboard motor with a alt. hung on the side of the motor. On your outboard it will charge thru the starter + cable.

[captsuperfly]

warthog5 - 5/30/2007 11:54 PM

The wire from the alt. to battery in the Blue Seas PFD you will not run.

That drawing is for a inboard motor with a alt. hung on the side of the motor. On your outboard it will charge thru the starter + cable.

thanks guys (both of you), makes sense. so, the wire from starter etc. will go right to switch. Battery will go right to switch. ACR will go right to each battery and the negative buss.

Will there be a post of some kind on my ignition switch so I can run the ignition isolator to the ACR? Or will I need to tap into another wire? Wish I had my shop manual with me. thanks again.

[warthog5]

The Pos cable from the motor connects from the starter solenoid to the Mini ON/OFF switch.

Will there be a post of some kind on my ignition switch so I can run the ignition isolator to the ACR? Or will I need to tap into another wire? Wish I had my shop manual with me. thanks again.

I don't understand the question. If you need ign sw. controlled power it is the Gray wire +off the ign switch. Black wire is -.

Looked at the Blue Seas drawing again. Pick up a connection from the Gray wire out of the ign switch. Fuse it and connect it to the ACR. If it was me I would stick with the Gray color that Suzzy uses.

[captsuperfly]

I thought the gray wire from the switch worked off the accessory setting, so it would have power the entire time the key is in the on position. Right now the gray wire powers my navman fuel meter so the hour meter runs off it. according to blue seas, i need to power the starter isolator on the ACR so that it gets power only when the starter cranks. I'm probably doing a poor job explaining this.

thanks again.

[warthog5]

HeHe I have yet to install one of the new ACR units and haven't read everything.

So you want power only when the key is in the start position. Correct?

That will be the "Brown" wire off the ign switch. That wire also has the neuteral safety switch inline.

[warthog5]

By the way. This has saved my eyes and made life much more simple for me.

It took me 5 trys to get a clean scan out of the Factory manual. I then loaded it onto a CD. I took that to a Blueprint company where the had a "D" size plotter 2ft X 3ft.

I then stopped a Wal mart and bought just about every color of Sharpie that they had. Not all the lines are colored but it's enough to break it up and not go cross eyed. I taped it to a piece of 1/4in lauan plywood.

It wasn't very expensive to have done. A couple of dollars to print it.

[captsuperfly]

that's what I'm looking for. Thanks! The schematic idea is a great one. I get mall head everytime I look at one.