trapit

I need both an EPIRB and Liferaft (6 person). I go off-shore about 60-80 miles. My boat is a 35' center console. Since I don't have a cabin, what won't take up too much space??

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Paul Alewine
Augusta,Ga/Beaufort,Sc

"Pool Toy"
Donzi 35ZF Triple 250XS- FOR SALE-

jwo9958

Hi Paul,

We have many customers who have the same challenges. Your best recommendation is to decide where you want to keep the raft, take measurements and from there we can narrow down the specific life raft for you. Most common for boaters with a similar boat would be a canister mounted on the bow or the T-top. A canister has some advantages over the valise, they are waterproof and can be mounted outdoors and they also have the ability to automatically deploy the life raft using a hydrostatic release if your vessel sinks 9-12 feet. The negatives are that they are heavier (on average 20-30lbs more than valises), they cost more due to the purchase of a cradle (average $400) and hydrostatic release (replaced every two years for $99). If you want to stick with a valise (bag), it needs to be kept in a waterproof locker that is easy to access.

To determine and narrow down your search, please indicate where you would keep the life raft. Measure that size, and we can go from there.

As for an EPIRB, I would strongly recommend any EPIRB with GPS built into the unit. This allows two things to happen: 1) Search and Rescue gets notified of your emergency much faster than the typical 406 MHZ. There is an instant message sent out rather than waiting for the satellites to align properly. 2) They know exactly where you are located. The typical 406 MHZ has a 20 nautical mile radius to search for you versus the exact Lat and Long with the built in GPS. I would not encourage a PLB for your primary EPIRB since once activated, they stay on for only 24 hours. An EPIRB stays on for 48 hours allowing much more time for search and rescue in case the EPIRB is not with you during the emergency. As for the Category, the EPIRB unit is exactly the smae in both the difference is the bracket that it comes with. A Category 1 will automatically deploy when the vessel sinks to 9-12 ft using a similar hydrostatic release as the life raft (replace every two years for $125.00). A Category 2 needs to be kept near the helm since you must grab it before you abandon ship. The Cat. 1 must be kept in a float free area like on top of the T-top or similar otherwise the EPIRB will not float to the surface to automatically become water activated and send your signal. Thanks, Brian Kinsella 1-800-451-2127

Maybe Tonight

Hi Brian,

I have only just recently considered a raft for my 28 Southport. I definately am leaning towards a valise type and your statement quoted above caught my eye during my reading through this forum.

What is the reason the valise needs to be stored in a water proof locker?? Is the the material of the valise suffers from getting wet?? Does the raft deploy automatically when the valise gets wet?? I was under the impression the raft's deployment was triggered by pulling the attached line.

Look forward to your reply, thank you in advance,

Paul

__________________
"Maybe Tonight"
Southport 28cc
Twin Yamaha 250's

jwo9958

Paul,

Actually a dry location is key to prolonging the life a valise style life raft, not necessarily waterproof. Many leisure life raft manufacturers vacuum pack their life rafts to extend the service interval to 3 years. This hermetically sealed pack helps preserve the life raft and protect it from water damage and can handle weathering better. I would suggest a dry location for storage and bring the valise on deck when offshore for easy access. The painter line must be pulled to inflate the life raft it is not water activated. All the hydrostatic release does is through water pressure cuts the weak link to the lashing assembly to allow the canister to become float free. In a catastrophic event as the boat is sinking the life raft, which is inherently buoyant, floats to the surface pulling the painter line until the pin is pulled from the CO2 cylinder inflating the life raft and plunging it to the surface. I hope this helps in your questions. E-mail me at briank@lrse.com and I'll send some quotes and spec sheets to help you with your decision. Thank you for the post. Brian Kinsella

Maybe Tonight

Hi Brian,

Thank you for clearing it up for me. I was thinking of the valise type with the idea being it would be brought down to the boat only for offshore trips. From the sound of it, this would qualify as "dry storage". When I saw the comment about keeping it dry I thought a good soaking would cause the raft to deploy. I see now that was incorrect.

I have the perfect place for it onboard when it is actually going to be on the boat. When using the boat around the inshore bays the raft would be safe and sound at my house

Thank you very much,

Paul

__________________
"Maybe Tonight"
Southport 28cc
Twin Yamaha 250's

Miss Trial

Not to hijack the thread, but i have a similar situation and i am assuming this is the EPIRB you are recommending?

Smartfind 406 EPIRB with GPS, Cat.II

This is the best one that is of the type that you grab on your way out of the boat?

jwo9958

Yes, a CAT II EPIRB is manually deployed and should be the first thing grabbed in an emergency. The 2 main manufacturers we deal with are McMurdo and ACR who both make superior comparable EPIRBS using GPS technology. I do like the new ACR Ipro for 2 reasons. It has a digital LED readout that when testing it goes through the testing process on the LED screen. It's more comforting than just getting a green light and flashing strobe telling you it is communicating with the satellite. Also in the event of an emergency if you had activated the EPIRB, it displays your LAT/LONG location so you can be proactive in your Mayday distress call. Feel free to contact me with any questions or email me to order briank@lrse.com. Thank you, Brian Kinsella